Building Another 1D Maglite, with a new Twist! I sold all of these bare hosts and the thre

I'm making another 1D Maglite out of a 2D, so I'm going to be cutting down the barrel, but this time I decided to do something I haven't tried yet.

I'm going to remove the stock switch all together and make a tailcap switch.

Here's some photos of what I am in the process of doing:

ts1

The section in between the tape lines is the section that will be removed and the two ends joined back together.

ts2

Here's the parts for the tailcap switch.

ts3

I drilled a 1/2" hole in the center of the tailcap and then I used the rotary tool to enlarge the hole, to accept the plastic bushing.

ts4

This is a plastic bushing I got from Lowes. I made the taper by slowing down the rotary tool and by hand, I just tapered the center hole of the bushing and then sanded it.

ts5

I used the rorary tool again to make a place for the Judco switch to fit into the backside of the bushing.

ts6

Here's the Judco switch. I bent the prongs as they are here.

ts7

I made a copper ring to help keep the bushing centered in the tailcap and then I decided to make a strap to hold everything from moving. It's still in the works here.

ts8

The bushing is in place.

ts9

The switch is in place.

ts9a

The assembly with the copper ring in place and the strap holds the switch from backing out.

ts9b

A front view. Yes, it tail stands and better than a stock maglite.

When I finally do assemble this, I will pin the copper ring to the tailcap with 2 brass pins. It won't go anywhere and when I paint the assembled tailcap, it will look like it belongs there.

More to come.........

Added:

Here's the finished switch, except for painting:

tsa1

The assembled switch with a plastic cover.

tsa2

tsa3

tsa4

The color I will be using on this mod.

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I have never shown the two pieces of barrel after they were hogged out with the rotary tool. I guess because they look so bad, I hated to show them, but probably I should, so people can see what they are gatting into.

az1

One end with the inside cut made.

az2

The other end with the outside cut made. (2 photos).

az3

Very poor compared to a lathe. You can see how much inconsistency in wall thickness around the diameter.

These two pieces are ready to be put together. I just coat JB Weld down inside one end and up top of the other end. I leave the rest bare, as I want to make sure there's contact and continuity through the whole barrel.

I take off a little material at a time and make sure there's a "press fit", using a large rubber mallet. That way it won't come apart.

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Painting is Done!

tsp1

You can see the seam where the switch assembly is inserted, not great, but not bad either.

tsp2

This is where the body seam is hidden, Can't see any seam at all.

tsp3

Did the bezel to match the rest.

comp1

Compared to a stock 2D.

bore1

and I did bore it out while I was at it.

That's all for now and it will be a while, since I just ordered reflectors from China, so this goes on the shelf for 3-4 weeks.

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I love watching your mods unfold. Great idea.

Thats cool! And cool that you are documenting the process. You obviously get some pretty nice results with just hand tools, things I would think you need machinery for.

I didn't realize just how short this thing is going to be. Instead of just removing 65mm of the barrel, it's over 90mm, because the normal switch isn't there. That makes this light only 6-1/2" OAL.

Now that's a Maglite Shorty!

6.5mag

What are you going to be using for the driver/emitter setup?

Why the switch? Modes. I Don’t want to do modes by trying to screw/unscrew the cap every time. Also possible thread wear. Since I am not trying to push the emitters to max, I’m not too worried about resistance, but I have read that the Judco switches are pretty low resistance.

I read that for switches, springs, etc., use that special electrical contact spray (what's it called?). Supposed to be the do all end all and make a Mag switch just peachy, but for the price, it will stay on the shelf.

I used to do a lot of stuff direct drive. 3 NiMHs one LED, but that was with P7 D bin and you couldn't kill those things with power, they just kept on working, even with 4 NiMHs direct. But... I have noticed that these Cree are a lot more sensitive (plus lower vf) and I have burned up a couple with just three NiMHs, so now I use drivers for Crees.

Driver will be the newest 8x7135 from KD, emitter will be an XM-L T6 5000k.

3 modes, L/M/H.

Awesome. That should make for a nice neutral beam.
Id love to see some beamshots if you’ve got the time to take some when you finish up. I’ve been thinking of trying a similar project.

Oh yes, I know how to blow up emitters fairly well.Surprised

I guess one has to kill some to save others.Tongue Out

No problem, but this build will go on hold when it's time for the reflector and emitter. I just ordered from CNQG, so it will be 2-3 weeks before I can finish the build.

I certainly understand that. I've got quite a few on hold for the same reason.

Look forward to following the rest of your progress on this light!

Updated photos in the first post, showing the paint scheme and boring.

That finish looks great!

Good job man!

Well, things change, as they often do. I sold all of these bare hosts and the thread is done here.