...never bought, do you have any experiences? Wanna use to finish knives and flashlight up to a mirror shining
In local shops I can't find it over 1200...
Goggling I find 2 types water/dry but I guess that need to use some water at that grit for a good work and also to avoid the suspension of the little particles produced, breath it can it be dangerous?
About the material used, is silicon carbide or aluminium oxide, what is better?
Any info or buy link(preferably cheap, also chinese sites) to that kind of sandpaper is welcome, ty :)
for finishing steel, 2000 is as high as I go, then buffing wheel w/ rouge. For aluminum 1500 is good (you can even buff by hand at that point) and 1200 is ok.
you can go to those higher grits but there's no need if you are going to buff, which is the only way (I know of) to get a mirror like finish.
@Kokopelli how much are ships? I think that is not worth for just some sandpaper
@dthrckt ty for the tips, but what is buff? I find the guy of twilight goggling it :Sp and improving cow leather... Is like deerskin? How to use, need to add some polish or just dry?
btw having more time I find that table
Grit size table
Grade & Application
ISO/FEPA Grit designation
Average particle diameter (µm)
Medium
(sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, for gentle removal of varnish)
P60
269µm
For all general manual application. Back highly flexible and does not crack prematurely.
P80
201µm
Fine
(sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, not suitable for removing varnish or paint from wood, use for cleaning plaster and water stain from wood)
P100
162µm
P120
125µm
Very Fine
(sanding of bare wood)
P150
100µm
For intermediate hand-sanding for metal and putty shaping. Uesd in both dry and waterbased sanding.
P180
82µm
P220
68µm
Very Fine
(sanding finishes between coats)
P240
58.5µm
Generally hand sanding; for fine sanding on metal surfaces, automobile primer and top paint coats and jewellery polishing.
P280
52.2µm
P320
46.2µm
Extra fine
(start polishing of wood)
P400
35µm
P600
25.8µm
Super fine
(final sanding of finishes, final sanding of wood)
P800
21.8µm
P1000
18.3µm
P1200
15.3µm
Ultra fine
(final sanding and polishing of thick finishes)
P1500
12.6µm
Setting one of the highest finishing standard, it is used for final retouching of automobile top coat during last polishing and jewellery / precious stone polishing.
I googled it too - that's a pretty weird definition that i've never heard lol
buffing, w/ respect to metal finishing, means applying a compound (some are solid, some liquid) to fabric (usually cotton?) or felt, and polishing the metal with it
newspaper is probably rougher than 5000 grit
3k and 5k will mean less time and effort buffing - but VERY little in comparison to the cost of the sandpaper. I always buy 3m wet/dry sandpaper for 800 grit and up, just because I've had good results, not because I've tried lots of others...
When I buff aluminum that I've sanded w/ 1500 grit I use a liquid/paste polish and a cloth, but if you're going to use a buffing wheel and rouge you can get away with sanding to 800, or even 600. Aluminum is very easy to polish.
For steel you'll need something like this. These are cheap options (and what I use currently) the buffer I dream of...because I've used one...is $900 lol.
I thought that the dreamel wool tip was not able to give an uniform finish maybe is my polish that sux, too big grains, when I'll get some free time will make some try also with toothpaste ty again for the tips and to Boaz that pm me his experience :O
yes, you need one w/o any grain/grit for a mirror polish, and to keep from deforming things.
I have a green rouge from matchless (brand) that doesn't have any grit...it just smooths it out - it will round ridges and such if you're not careful, but nothing like those w/ abrasive in them
btw, you can also buy grit in powder form (alumina is aluminum oxide), and then mix it w/ oil or even water for buffing/lapping
I have some 1200 grit alumina. I use it to lap the bottom of emitter pcbs to heatsinks, and I add it to epoxy, to increase thermal conductivity (w/o making it conductive), and also to make the epoxy more of a paste so that it doesn't drip as easily