I'd like to replace the clicky switch in my Sipik SK68 with an electronic switch. Anyone know where to buy small electronic switches on the net? Preferably ones that might be made to fit in the tailcap of the Sipik SK68.
I like the soft silent touch of an electronic switch such as in my Spark or Zebralights. I'm willing to take the micro amperage drain of an electronic switch in order to get that nice electronic switch feel, but I'm having trouble locating a provider of such switches.
DX has some with various button heights: link
Note that you need a special driver (or some additional electronics) to make that work.
With AA (1.2V/1.5V) it will probably more than just a few microamps, because the boost circuit has to work all time, see the UF-H2 for example. With Li-ion, a few µA is possible.
Thanks for the link.
Where would I find a 17mm flashlight driver that works with it? or extra electronics that could be installed at the switch. I assume without the extra electronics the switch would act as a momentary switch only rather than allowing the light to stay on when the switch is released.
Note: The light I'd like to put this in is using a 2.8 amp Shining beam driver powering an XM-L T6. And I run it exclusively on AW IMR 14500.
Yes, just a momentary button instead of the switch will give you momentary operation only. However those little switchies are not suited for high currents.
2.8A/Li-ion:
Oh, in that case I have a suitable driver :) It's a NANJG105C reprogrammed with a custom firmware (lumodrv) suitable for lights with an electronic switch. See here.
If that switch is at the tailcap though, you need to bypass the battery power (because it shall not run through the switch any more) and to add an additional (low current signal) connection from the switch to the driver - which will probably be a hassle when you want to change batteries etc.
That driver looks perfect. And it should definitely fit since the current driver I'm using is the one from Shiningbeam which it sounds like is the same thing but in stock configuration without your awesome custom firmware.
My battery tube doesn't have much room in it but I have some ideas for how to connect the switch. Question: how many independent connections would need to be wired to the switch and not the battery? And where do I wire up the switch on the driver board?
One wire (a very thin enameled copper wire suffices) from switch to driver, connected to the 4th star.
The switch's other connector is connected to the case (which is connected to the negative battery terminal).
I think I could make that work. Any chance I could buy a few of those driver boards with your driver on them? I sent you a PM.