Anyone do any mods to a UltraFire UF-T50 yet?

I got my UF-T50 today and was just wondering if anyone has done any modding to it at all. I am looking to change it to NW but it looks like I need to get the pill out to make it easier but I can't really see a way to do that, so I was wondering if anyone has completely torn this light down. I have gotten the head off, bezel off and reflector out, just need to get the pill out.

I like mine the way it is and I don’t want to tear it apart again to look at the pill in more detail but does the pill have two indents in the top of the pill?
Many screw-in pills have this to make it easier to unscrew (using needle nose pliers.
Maybe ChicagoX has taken his apart and might be able to answer your question more directly.

I have acquired a new strap-wrench, and will likely attack the T50 tonight.

Haha, I had absolutely 0 issues removing the head and bezel with my hands, maybe I am stronger than I realize :wink:

Looking at it there doesn't appear to be an easy way to get the pill out of the head due to the switch being there. Oh well, will use as is then.

Bose, this is getting creepy. Another post asking the exact same question that I came here to ask.

I just picked up my T50 from the post office. Using rubber gloves I was able to get the bezel and head off. However, it seems as though the reflector is glued onto the whole assembly inside. I think I'm going to break this thing already...

The reflector is actually threaded, you have to unscrew it. It gave me issues too then I figured I would give that a try and it worked.

Ok, yup, threaded on. Pill (actually the driver) sits in a ring cut into the side of the head, and the whole assembly is glued to the side of the head. Just broke that bond and can see the wires from the switch. Still working on it...

If you are able to get anything done with it without breaking it be sure to post pics, I would love to put a NW in there.

Here it is taken apart. Driver is soldered into a ring that is press-fit into the pill. Sweet, looks as though the driver is 15mm, with a dummy 17mm board mounted behind it - which is the one that actually makes contact with the battery. Should be able to swap a 8 x 7135 board in there easy.

Man, there is almost no heatsinking for the LED :( Have you been able to get the LED board out at all?

Updated my last post with more pictures. There's really no less heatsinking than a standard P60 drop in.

Now the question is can it be put back together successfully.

Haha, I'm wondering the same thing. Only thing I'm trying to figure out now is the switch. The wires are now too short to solder in, so I'll have to extend them. It's such a tiny space that shrink wrap will be too bulky. I can't tell how the switch is installed, if it's simply glued in, or if the ring on the outside actually threads on. It would be great if I could get the switch out to solder up new wires.

And if I get that figured out, I need to go ahead and try to get DrJones to "lend" me his code ;)

Any success getting the thing back together? All I want to do is replace the LED so all I should have to do is get the pill out, don't need to get it all apart like you, lol.

I opened mine, too. Bad heat sinking indeed.

I doubt getting in a NANJG105C is that simple: The spring will take away quite some millimeters from the battery tube, batteries might not fit any more. A single sided driver with piggybacked AMCs would work.

I also didn't manage yet to get out the driver ring from the pill. I took out the dummy/contact plate though. The inner diameter of the ring (for the smaller driver) is 16mm. Too bad the NANJG isn't smaller; maybe it can be sanded down a bit to fit there.

I won't attempt to get mine back together until I get my code done and tested. Which means, it probably won't be for a while. Nice I realized is that you can remove the magnet.

Whats your plan for the code?

Was thinking about doing ramping somewhat like how it comes stock, but then a double tap will allow you to cycle through preset modes. Double tap again and you go back to the ramping mode.

If any of you do find a way to get a more standard H-M-L or better ramping style driver in here let me know, I would probably buy one, really like this light.