mine is direct drive (stock). I'm going to jam a piece of 3/4" rod into the hollow (and shallow) pill and see what an xp-g draws. too much (doubt it) then i'll use xm-l, too little I'll reduce resistance...
if the tail switch wasn't pressed in, this would be a great host
I just modded the pill, only because I need to practice w/ solder-it aluminum solder paste before I repair an expensive item.
A 1/2" copper pipe cap will slip through the hole in this pill w/ just a hair of space on each side, so I pounded the top of one flat, and hard enough to make it a little fatter.
I squeezed that into the pill w/ the vise so that the top was even w/ the top of the pill (the stock emitter is much thicker than a cree).
I put a bead of the paste around the edge, and heated it up. After it cooled I hacksawed the bottom of the pipe cap to be flush w/ the bottom of the pill.
A little dremel-ing around the inside edge and its ready for a nanjg 105c. I'll have to screw down whatever emitter I go with, but that's it for now. Several projects need to be finished before this one...
the paste? I searched "solder-it aluminum paste". I found a seller w/ a "case" of two shipped for $18.xx
I think I was finding at least $15 (shipped) for one everywhere else. You don't get much for the $
There's also flux available that is supposed to make regular solder work on aluminum.
With the solder-it stuff, you have to heat the whole part, not the solder paste directly (at least not until the flux is gone and there's a LOT of flux).
I suppose you could heat the tailcap/paste and when the flux is almost gone, stick the spring in and cool it all quickly with a wet sponge, but I think you might still lose some spring-iness. The ano might change color, too, but maybe not, if you don't over do it w/ the torch...
It did make a very solid bond between copper cap and aluminum pill. I pounded the cap w/ a hammer, just for the sake of science