Nice mod, George. To get 176kcd you must have done everything right, including a well focused led !
Put a XP-L V6 1A into an EE X6. With dome on, I measured 1690 lumens (semi-calibrated ceiling bounce test) and 49.4 Kcd. Dedomed, I measured 1547 lumens and 93.7 Kcd. Significantly brighter than the XPL HI V2 3B at 70 Kcd. All with fresh 30Q at 20-30sec.
I had trouble dedoming this particular XPL V6 1A. I have dedomed 6 others and the dome came off easily after 30-60 minutes of soaking in warm gas. With this one an “outer dome” came off easily but there was a large piece of silicone stuck to the die that would not separate easily. I ended up taking it out of the gas and carefully scraping the silicone off with a blade. Has anyone experienced this behavior with dedoming XPLs?
Fandyfire Warrior got new emitters today. XM-L2 U2 4C 4500K
And the S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet
Yes, me, but not with 1A:
Are all your 1A from the same shipment? I ordered new ones and hope I will still be able to dedome them in aceton. I’m not good in scraping at all.
vwpieces, that is a very thorough polishing job you did on the S2+. I never had the patience to take it to that level!
Vwpieces what did you use for the final polish ?
A mod long overdue: replacing the ugly cool white XM-L2 of my copper Olight S1 by a XM-L2 T4 7A led (from Simon’s Aliexpress store). The bezel was removed using the by others described method: first carefully hammer a thin utility knife in the groove, working my way around the bezel, then a thicker pen knife, then a flat drill bit and after that the bezel popped out with a light twist. Thanks X3 and others for working out the method.
Now it has the proper led colour that the copper S1’s are supposed to have:
Finally 
You did a good choice with that warm tint, that was my first choice for my Ti version !
But after a while, I finally found that it’s too brownish for my taste and swapped it for a 5D1 80+ CRI from IO
EDIT :
For the Ti version, I understand the cooler tint.
(is it flashoholism in an advanced detoriated stage to match the led tint to the flashlight instead of the owner’s preference?)
Thanks,
That was second round. Took pics the first time and it showed all the flaws under light.
This one in Stainless tool a bit longer to get the machine parks out before polishing.
Wet sanded up to 2000 grit and Mothers mag aluminum polish on a paper towel.
very nice.
did you strip off anodize and polish to get it shinny?
I think so, but I totally agrre with you…
My S1 alu is equipped with a “T6”–6C from FT and find it too warm…on the other hand my CNQG brass beauty got some XP-G2 R4 7A that totally fit the sweet brass host…
We might have a problem
Thanks for linking that discussion; I thought I remember reading someone having this problem but could not find it again.
The V6 1As that dedomed well I ordered a month ago from MTN as bare LEDs flowed onto XP32s. The recent V6 1A I ordered from MTN a few days ago on a 20mm MCPCB. So it’s possible that they came from different times or batches or something.
Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.
Did you have to take it out and scrub at all, or did the lye do all the work for you? How long did it take?
I wonder how patient are those who are taking off stock anodozing. Have anybody tried to contact Simon to get some bare hosts without anodizing? It shouldn`t be hard for him.
It’s very easy to remove anodizing.
It’s done with a chemical way , some members will tell you the exact name (liquid used to unclog pipes , i used “tuboflo” in water , that can be found here).
Clean the grease and oils from threads etc. Or those areas take longer. Time depends on the strength of solution and temp of it. Can ’ve done in 10 to 15 minutes. Definitely wash and brush it clean after to help stop the future corrosion. Too harsh or too long the aluminum will blacken. The black can be cleaned off with wire brush but its effecting the aluminum at that point. I guess a light acid like vinegar would also help neutralize the Base, Lye. I just wash it with dish detergent with an old toothbrush.
Some other harsh, Base cleaners would work too. Ex
Zep industrial purple, or another called Red Devil. Etching type of mag wheel cleaners may work too. All these are strong Base. Also read on here someone using household bleach. Just do not leave it unattended and do not mix your own solution. Strong base are just as dangerous as Acid.
I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.
I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6