Put a XP-L V6 1A into an EE X6. With dome on, I measured 1690 lumens (semi-calibrated ceiling bounce test) and 49.4 Kcd. Dedomed, I measured 1547 lumens and 93.7 Kcd. Significantly brighter than the XPL HI V2 3B at 70 Kcd. All with fresh 30Q at 20-30sec.
I had trouble dedoming this particular XPL V6 1A. I have dedomed 6 others and the dome came off easily after 30-60 minutes of soaking in warm gas. With this one an “outer dome” came off easily but there was a large piece of silicone stuck to the die that would not separate easily. I ended up taking it out of the gas and carefully scraping the silicone off with a blade. Has anyone experienced this behavior with dedoming XPLs?
A mod long overdue: replacing the ugly cool white XM-L2 of my copper Olight S1 by a XM-L2 T4 7A led (from Simon’s Aliexpress store). The bezel was removed using the by others described method: first carefully hammer a thin utility knife in the groove, working my way around the bezel, then a thicker pen knife, then a flat drill bit and after that the bezel popped out with a light twist. Thanks X3 and others for working out the method.
Now it has the proper led colour that the copper S1’s are supposed to have:
Finally
You did a good choice with that warm tint, that was my first choice for my Ti version !
But after a while, I finally found that it’s too brownish for my taste and swapped it for a 5D1 80+ CRI from IO
I think so, but I totally agrre with you…
My S1 alu is equipped with a “T6”–6C from FT and find it too warm…on the other hand my CNQG brass beauty got some XP-G2 R4 7A that totally fit the sweet brass host…
We might have a problem
Thanks for linking that discussion; I thought I remember reading someone having this problem but could not find it again.
The V6 1As that dedomed well I ordered a month ago from MTN as bare LEDs flowed onto XP32s. The recent V6 1A I ordered from MTN a few days ago on a 20mm MCPCB. So it’s possible that they came from different times or batches or something.
Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.
I wonder how patient are those who are taking off stock anodozing. Have anybody tried to contact Simon to get some bare hosts without anodizing? It shouldn`t be hard for him.
It’s very easy to remove anodizing.
It’s done with a chemical way , some members will tell you the exact name (liquid used to unclog pipes , i used “tuboflo” in water , that can be found here).
Clean the grease and oils from threads etc. Or those areas take longer. Time depends on the strength of solution and temp of it. Can ’ve done in 10 to 15 minutes. Definitely wash and brush it clean after to help stop the future corrosion. Too harsh or too long the aluminum will blacken. The black can be cleaned off with wire brush but its effecting the aluminum at that point. I guess a light acid like vinegar would also help neutralize the Base, Lye. I just wash it with dish detergent with an old toothbrush.
Some other harsh, Base cleaners would work too. Ex
Zep industrial purple, or another called Red Devil. Etching type of mag wheel cleaners may work too. All these are strong Base. Also read on here someone using household bleach. Just do not leave it unattended and do not mix your own solution. Strong base are just as dangerous as Acid.
I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.
I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6
If you use lye (sodium hydroxide) there are a few things to be very aware of. If you have the dry type of the chemical ALWAYS add it to water. NEVER the other way around. Also start with cold water. Dissolving sodium hydroxide in water causes an exothermic reaction; heat is produced. Water into dry can create a steam explosion the exothermic reaction is that strong. There are also fumes released that are not good to breathe. The sodium hydroxide solution will burn skin on contact; very bad for the eyes. I use sodium hydroxide in making bar soap. I wear heavy duty rubber gloves and eye protection. I always mix outside and let it cool before bringing it into the shop. Do not mix in an aluminum container; therewill be a chemical reaction. Use glass or stainless steel. FYI, crystaline forms of drain cleaners that foam and bubble usually contain aluminum fines just to make the bubbles so the consumer thinks it’s working good. Pure marketing, the bubbles serve no useful purpose.
Strange how something so nasty makes great soap when combined with the proper amounts of fats or oils.
If you leave the aluminum light in the solution too long the aluminum will be eaten away. In fact I think when used for removing anodization it will leave the aluminum with an etched surface. Not shiny in other words. I am not sure on that. I have never removed anodizing on a light but was curious once about how caustic it was and tried soaking a piece of bronze anodized aluminum window frame. Yup, it works and the aluminium was dullish. I don’t recall if it was pitted, satin, or whatever.