Where do you get clear tailcaps for the astrolux lineup (S1, S2, S41 ect.)? They are smaller then the convoy clear tailcaps I have.
14mm. I get mine from KD
Thanks, got some ordered. For some reason I just assumed that the convoy tailcaps I had would fit.
Just successfully constructed an illuminated tailcap for a Convoy C8 Version 3.
I used the following parts:
16mm Rev5.3 - Bottom
18mm Rev 5.2 - Top
Omten 1288 switch from MntElectronics
Clear Translucent Boot from Simon
1 3x3 50K ohm Panasonic SMD Pot from ebay
1 0805 SMD Slow 7 color changing RGB LED from ebay
I used 2 header pins to stack the boards around the switch. The 7 color changing LED cycles thru R G B with a slight color shift between cycles. I measured a 0.23 mA draw on the tailcap. I still need to add a bleeder resistor to the driver. My driver is a QLITE with guppydrv firmware running at 3.8 Amps. Without the bleeder resistor the driver no longer starts on high when initially turned on. If switched off it starts where you left off. Like you have memory enabled. Everything else seems to work fine. I am also still able to program the driver with custom modes.
I am tempted to add an additional color changing LED to the ring board to see if additional colors occur, since the chip built into the color changing RGB LED most probably have slightly different timing/cycle rates.
Thanks again PD for making the 18mm top available!
Received today 10 pcs PD68 Illuminated Switch - 16mm Rev5.1, I have about 5 or 6 models of switches and this PCB fits only one of them!
Only small orange omten switch will work but for them center hole is a bit wider than it should be while for others center hole is too small. Thought I could just sand it until it fits but thre are 2 vias very close to center hole that will be damaged by sanding just not sure if they will dissapear complitely or will they still have function
There’s no problem with a bit of play on the ring, that was on purpose. In any case if you choose to drill/sand, this can be your guide (if you didn’t check it already). As long as half of the via is left it should be fine.
My transparent tail caps are shipped today from Kaidomain and SMD resistors are still on the slow boat from Fasttech. Will wait for sure, I’m a patience man.
I could not because I dont have sourse for:
smd leds
smd components
springs
Yes all components can be bought in china, but usually it takes several unsuccessful purchases with fake switches and etc. until you get what you want.
17mm board, 2 size omten switches, 2 size rubber caps and double springs can cover lots of lights that are usually modded.
I’m not sure what the problem is buying small components from China. That’s where they are all made anyways. I buy my springs from Fasttech, Kaidomain, or Aliexpress. I buy my Omten 1288 switches and clear caps from Kaidomain or Simon. I buy my potentiometers from whoever is cheapest on ebay. I bought my 0805 resistors from Fasttech. I did buy my 0805 LEDs from a US seller, but you can also get them on ebay and even some on Fasttech.
I have never had a bad order from any of these sellers, other than once from cnqualitygoods when they sent me more springs than I ordered.
Likewise I say it is not a “drop-in replacement” not because it won’t physically fit, but because usually the driver has to be altered to work with the new tailcap. You can’t just pop it in and go.
Hey kiriba-ru
I bought most of the parts from Kaidomain except the SMD LED and potentiometers from ebay.
Pilotdog68 has provided all the links on first page.
Those parts will take approx 1 month to arrive. When i first put them together, It took couple of attempts to get the idea soldering parts as the components are so damn small and I burned lots of them but you will pick up the skills as you go.
I have mod all my lights and it is the greatest invention from Pilotdog68. Hats down to you man 
I mod these 2 months ago- im going to try something different when i get new parts 
Edit: hmmm something happened to the image on the host website . It seems the true colour has washed out
I was thinking the other day about that board with the Tiny13 pads.
It was most likely already mentioned before I started reading this thread but it would be cool if it could read voltage and change the tailcap color as voltage dropped and also act as a LVP and shut down the LED’s entirely once voltage got low enough.
Obviously keeping the drain low enough is an issue but should not be that hard if TomE is doing so well with narsil.
ah, if only there were more hours in the day….
On a different topic now…
Some of you have already seen my X2R mod. I thought I’d detail a little more about the tailcap in that one.
I used the newest Rev5.3 boards that use the jumper pins. It was a bit of a pain to get them aligned correctly and make sure they were solid without poking out the other side of the board. The end result is very clean though so I will keep using this version.
I was able to get by with a 1k bleeder on this one and still keep driver function. I’m not sure if maybe the charger circuit has a bit of bleed itself that is helping me or what, but it’s nice to keep the bleeder a higher value. I used two 50k pots for the whole board (that I can switch between settings), and added about 10k of resistance on just the green channel to make it more balanced. The blue still fades out first as battery voltage goes down, and overall it is still too bright, so I ordered some 100k pots to try. It’s a shame the camera can’t pick up how it actually looks, it’s really beautiful.
I think what was said is that the Attiny itself draws 5x as much power as just running the LEDs. TK was working on some stuff that would actively give low voltage feedback, but nobody really tested it.
Is here any version of 2-board design where upper (with leds) board is one-side?
Do either of these two fit what you are looking for?
The original Rev5 top
or
Rev5.1x, explained here.
Note: 5.1x hasn’t been tested that I know of. The only thing I’m worried about is the switch boot smooshing the LEDs if they aren’t inward enough.
I cannot understand how does it works, how does leds negative pads are connected to the “-”? Bridge from other side?
5.1
On the 5.1x, it jumps a trace on the back of the board, yes
My Thorfire TG06 AA/14500
dual white led with 2k pot (from memory) the tail light pulse blink every 0.5 second like a heart beat . No bleeder needed 
Hmmm I kind of like the white look in there. I might have to try that.