My transparent tail caps are shipped today from Kaidomain and SMD resistors are still on the slow boat from Fasttech. Will wait for sure, I’m a patience man.
I could not because I dont have sourse for:
smd leds
smd components
springs
Yes all components can be bought in china, but usually it takes several unsuccessful purchases with fake switches and etc. until you get what you want.
17mm board, 2 size omten switches, 2 size rubber caps and double springs can cover lots of lights that are usually modded.
I’m not sure what the problem is buying small components from China. That’s where they are all made anyways. I buy my springs from Fasttech, Kaidomain, or Aliexpress. I buy my Omten 1288 switches and clear caps from Kaidomain or Simon. I buy my potentiometers from whoever is cheapest on ebay. I bought my 0805 resistors from Fasttech. I did buy my 0805 LEDs from a US seller, but you can also get them on ebay and even some on Fasttech.
I have never had a bad order from any of these sellers, other than once from cnqualitygoods when they sent me more springs than I ordered.
Likewise I say it is not a “drop-in replacement” not because it won’t physically fit, but because usually the driver has to be altered to work with the new tailcap. You can’t just pop it in and go.
Hey kiriba-ru
I bought most of the parts from Kaidomain except the SMD LED and potentiometers from ebay.
Pilotdog68 has provided all the links on first page.
Those parts will take approx 1 month to arrive. When i first put them together, It took couple of attempts to get the idea soldering parts as the components are so damn small and I burned lots of them but you will pick up the skills as you go.
I have mod all my lights and it is the greatest invention from Pilotdog68. Hats down to you man 
I mod these 2 months ago- im going to try something different when i get new parts 
Edit: hmmm something happened to the image on the host website . It seems the true colour has washed out
I was thinking the other day about that board with the Tiny13 pads.
It was most likely already mentioned before I started reading this thread but it would be cool if it could read voltage and change the tailcap color as voltage dropped and also act as a LVP and shut down the LED’s entirely once voltage got low enough.
Obviously keeping the drain low enough is an issue but should not be that hard if TomE is doing so well with narsil.
ah, if only there were more hours in the day….
On a different topic now…
Some of you have already seen my X2R mod. I thought I’d detail a little more about the tailcap in that one.
I used the newest Rev5.3 boards that use the jumper pins. It was a bit of a pain to get them aligned correctly and make sure they were solid without poking out the other side of the board. The end result is very clean though so I will keep using this version.
I was able to get by with a 1k bleeder on this one and still keep driver function. I’m not sure if maybe the charger circuit has a bit of bleed itself that is helping me or what, but it’s nice to keep the bleeder a higher value. I used two 50k pots for the whole board (that I can switch between settings), and added about 10k of resistance on just the green channel to make it more balanced. The blue still fades out first as battery voltage goes down, and overall it is still too bright, so I ordered some 100k pots to try. It’s a shame the camera can’t pick up how it actually looks, it’s really beautiful.
I think what was said is that the Attiny itself draws 5x as much power as just running the LEDs. TK was working on some stuff that would actively give low voltage feedback, but nobody really tested it.
Is here any version of 2-board design where upper (with leds) board is one-side?
Do either of these two fit what you are looking for?
The original Rev5 top
or
Rev5.1x, explained here.
Note: 5.1x hasn’t been tested that I know of. The only thing I’m worried about is the switch boot smooshing the LEDs if they aren’t inward enough.
I cannot understand how does it works, how does leds negative pads are connected to the “-”? Bridge from other side?
5.1
On the 5.1x, it jumps a trace on the back of the board, yes
My Thorfire TG06 AA/14500
dual white led with 2k pot (from memory) the tail light pulse blink every 0.5 second like a heart beat . No bleeder needed 
Hmmm I kind of like the white look in there. I might have to try that.
I have actually been considering some white LED’s but didn’t order any and I have not even built one yet. With 90+ degrees in the house lately due to the AC being busted I just haven’t seemed to get as much done as sometimes lol.
Is that tailcap blue? What gives it the blue tint?
Also what causes the pulse? That is actually not a bad idea in some cases.
I would love a slow pulsing. I’ve seen it built into some 5mm LEDs. but never in a small SMD size.
The second pic show slight blue tint because my iPhone camera is sux at white balance colour.
I used clear tail boot and the light white.
I like this idea
I do too but to get the drain low enough to not be worse then leaving the LED’s on by themselves would take someone that knows how to program ATtiny’s way better then me. I could most likely cobble something together that would do it (pretty simple to check voltage and activate a pin based on the voltage) the issue is reducing the parasitic drain enough to not be worse then the LED’s
If possible it would be best if the tiny could sleep entirely except for the single pin activation for ~30 minutes between voltage checks. It would not need to do anything at all during this time. If it lost power (aka, you turn on the light) it would reset the cycle and update the voltage check.
During a discussion I had recently the possibility of a lighted tailcap compatible with NiMH batteries came up. I have very little experience with this sort of thing, but I did a bit of poking around. It would seem a very simple circuit using something like this might work. That converter, a suitable inductor, and a couple of other basic components would be all we need. I think there would be enough room on the bottom side of the 5.1 boards.
Would that converter work for this application or am I missing something?