What did you mod today?

[pilotdog68]

@djozz

If you clean the flashlight very well beforehand and keep the flashlight or lye solution in motion, the anodising layer is removed very evenly, and there is a quite distinct moment that all the ano is gone and the aluminium is not being eaten away yet. If you rinse the flashlight/parts (last time I dunked the complete flashlight in the lye) at this moment, the surface can be quite smooth and be polished fairly fast. The longer you wait the more etched the surface is.

So it’s best to watch over it the whole time, not just put it in and let it go?

Good info from all of you, thanks. I always wanted a shiny X6, but didn’t want black remnants in the grooves.

[vwpieces]

@pilotdog68

I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.

I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6

Last I checked one could buy Sodium Hydroxide crystals on Amazon.

Also been having thoughts on an EE X6. The Lye solution will get into the deep fins on the X6. HMMM again… I have an Ultrasonic cleaner with a heater, bet that will make short order of de-anodisation. As you can see in this pic, same S2+, de-anodised, but with a brushed finish, before I polished it. Brushed look really showed scratches easily.

There are still darkened areas, kinda yellow, in the knurling. I think that a second dip in the ultrasonic with some dish detergent and touch of Lemi Shine (citric acid) may be a no touch, strip and clean. Should get any discoloration out of the X6 fins because Dish detergents have metal brighteners and the citric acid does the same. Will neutralize the Lye also.

Another thought I have for the X6 was to only sand the high or flat surface areas, leaving the flat black in the fins and knurling. May look cool and if I FUD it up I’ll just strip it clean. I have a couple more X6 hosts on the way, we’ll see what happens when they arrive. Plans for both were XP-L HI single and triple.

[vwpieces]

Thanks MtnDon. You did a good job explaining the hazards and how to avoid injury. Better than I could. Be careful.

With the solution I started with one tablespoon to a Quart of water. I have a 1/2 gallon that I have been reusing for some time and not only on flashlight anodize removal. Strengthen the solution 1/4 Tbs at a time if your not satisfied. Warming the solution makes a huge difference in its effectiveness. I have been using an old ceramic coffee cup as it holds the dismantled parts of the lights I have done. I can also just heat that cup of solution in the microwave for a minute to warm it before using. Keep your solution in a plastic milk jug or glass jar. You can reuse it Many times.

[CRX]

Did some more tweaking of the Atom triple XP-L HI today, now the momentary tail switch can be activated while the light is in the magnetic keyring holder, which is handy.

[viperbart]

That looks more like an EDC ring than a key ring.

[CRX]

Don’t show your keys on the internet

[Nicolicous]

@vwpieces

@Nicolicous

@vwpieces

S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet

very nice.

did you strip off anodize and polish to get it shinny?

Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.

Thanks vwpieces

I have tried oven cleaners but didnt work well and the chemical reaction is too slow.

Will try Sodium Hydroxide but im scare i might do it wrong and it could be harmful

[vwpieces]

most oven cleaners dont clean ovens very well either. This solution would do that better too.

do a cheap ebay light first. Just keep water pan near to rinse the light. Dont use your bare fingers to fish out the parts from the solution. Solution cold is relatively mild and is slow to react. Warming it makes all the difference. So if a cold solution works its too strong, add water.

[lostheplot]

Not much of a mod had a x6 host laying around so I cooked it (my first cook)
then fitted a xml u3 on noctigon with blf driver.

the bezel and tailcap changed quite a bit the body and head about halfway.
strange but looks better then the pic.

[MRsDNF]

For hard to roast anodizing I’ve put parts directly on an electric stove element for different results.

[khas]

Today I put together my Jaxman X1 host :

BLF X6v2 Jaxman X1

With a XHP35 HI D4 1A and a 22 mm boostdriver

Jaxman X1 XHP35 HI 1A (left) BLF X6v2 XP-L HI 3D (right)

I don’t have way to measure lumens/lux but the throw is at least 700 M.

Edit : Beamshots

Dawn shot

Control

Imalent HR20 Nichia 219C D320 5000K

X1 XHP35 1A

[EasyB]

Both the X6 and the Jaxman X1 have the same emitter? It’s interesting that their hotspots are so close in size.

Edit: oh now I see they probably don’t. The X6 has an XPL HI?

[khas]

Sorry :person_facepalming: yes the BLF X6v2 is a XP-L HI 3D edited my post

[pilotdog68]

@vwpieces

@pilotdog68

I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.

I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6

Last I checked one could buy Sodium Hydroxide crystals on Amazon.

Anywhere to get it locally?

I wonder how well THIS would do, it says it’s 30-50% lye

Edit: This is cheaper and 100% Lye , so I’ll just do that

[Rufusbduck]

You can also mask areas to keep the ano and colors are removed more easily than black.

[mattlward]

Hey PD… in an XM-L2 I love the 4C, but in the XP-L I am really liking 5A3 and in the XP-L Hi I really like the 5A2. I have finally really found the sweet spot for me, when not using a 219B SW40.

@pilotdog68

@Rufusbduck

… Or get/make a longer tube and use an XHP-50 3D with a couple 18500’s.

I’d rather it be less floody if I can, and I actually plan to use an 18350 tube with it sometimes

I actually just ordered on of the 4B HI’s from KD, so hopefully they aren’t green. I’ll probably put the 4000k XPG3 back in it for now, the “3A” XPG3 is way too cool for me. I’ll probably use it to try a dedoming idea I have.

edit:
just got home, put the 5a XP-L in it aaaaaand… its perfect. No way is this emitter leaving this light. My L2 will just have to wait for the 4b when it get’s here.

[EasyB]

Modded Convoy L2.

OK, I guess this one is not quite finished and this is a teaser. There will be 7x dedomed XPL V6 1A emitters behind narrow TIR optics. I estimate there will be 8000+ lumens OTF and 130+Kcd.

[will34]

For a second I thought it was going to a be a single LED

Can’t wait for the result.

[pilotdog68]

So today I soaked a host in lye to get the ano off. I was really worried for awhile because I left the biggest part in too long and it started turning much darker than the other pieces. I though it was all going to be a mismatch. But then I discovered vinegar and some rubbing washed away the dark coating and brought back the nice bright aluminum.

1. Lye and wire brush
2. White wine vinegar
3. 1000grit sandpaper
4. 000 steel wool
5. Buffing wheel and mother’s mag
6. fast orange and water

Sorry, no pics until the rest of the light is done.

[vwpieces]

OH, come on PD. Be a good Dog. I want pics now!

Anyway, I warmed up this ice cold 99cent ebay score with a 219c 5000K. Its the 18650 version.

Just swapped emitter on another one of these. Used XP-L V6 3C 4700-5000K this time. I like it.
Pic of 3 lights