Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)

Photos are mostly useless in showing benefits of high CRI unless the difference is very drastic.

As a photographer, I would disagree. Just look at the hand photos earlier in this thread.

I would say the same. Also as a photographer. That is my main goal for high cri. To make the best light in a room/set/environment.

Furthermore I would boost the current from the 1.2 default to around double that for the max setting. The led should take that with no problems.

The advantages of high CRI would only be visible when comparing lights with identical CCT (and preferably also tint). The camera exaggarates white balance differences too much to be of any value. It just doesn’t reflect reality at all.

You are right.
I can’t compare different LEDs with different CCT and CRI by camera shots, because post-processing (even nice post-processing in C1 or Photoshop) blurs real difference between LEDs.
On these shots I see difference between LEDs with different CCT , but not CRI diff.

Here’s a 92CRI Nichia 219b emitter:

Here’s another one:

Now here’s a ~75 CRI XP-G:

… and a ~65CRI XR-E from a bargain bin light:

… and a ~65CRI XM-L:

See much difference? I don’t. I mean, obvious differences in beam pattern and exposure, but the CRI changes appear very small despite a large difference in specs. Digital cameras and computer screens can only capture/display three wavelengths, which makes them mostly incapable of portraying CRI differences.

As a bonus, here’s a wide-spectrum light. In person, it makes the most vivid colors:

Back to old school film camera’s and pass-around via snail mail. Thanks for the info; I’m learning a lot here :slight_smile:

Thanks for the comparisons. Vivid colors are often described as “preferred” in color rendering articles. I wonder if that wide-spectrum light would measure high in the new TM-30 method’s Rg (gamut, color space) metric. Normal high cri lights tend to be around 100.

I’m not sure if there’s a technical definition for wide-spectrum, but I was aiming for something like a normal CRI curve except a bit wider and flatter. So, more light high and low in the spectrum and less in the middle, for an effect similar to a vivid colors post-processing filter. I made it by mixing four Cree XM-L2 tints.

Unfortunately, pictures don’t really show the difference. Maybe I can get my spectrometer working eventually and show it in spectral form. I don’t have a way to calculate CRI or color temperature with it, though.

The High-CRI test of this light made me buy it for a reference. I got a 4K and a 5.7K, just looked at the 4K so far and I like the beam color characteristics. The UI is well…. not for me with blinky modes in the main loop. The light is a bit lower output than I expected, but should be fine for my hi-CRI uses although I may need a diffuser for that will not change the color. The manual is kind of funny, and is obviously written in the event you get a kit with a battery and charger. The good thing about the manual, 1 you get one, and 2 the print is large enough to read. I won’t list the cons of the manual because you guys will never read it :slight_smile: Mine came in a much smaller box than shown in the OP. It can fit a pretty long battery, probably 70-71mm, I used the new Lumintop USB rechargeable battery (LM34C) which is really too long for many lights (the length may kill this product) so I was happy it worked here to test this light so I didn’t have to rob a battery from a working light.

If you have a soldering iron, you can change the UI of the E2 driver by soldering a star. When you “solder a star”, you connect the inner half of the star with the outer half of the star with solder. You don’t have to make the solder connect all the way to the edge of the driver.

Rotate the driver so the stars are facing down towards the ground:

  • Jaxman E2 driver
    No stars : L - M - H - Strobe - SOS
    Left star : M - H
    Mid star : L - M - H
    Right star : M - H - Strobe

And in case anyone’s interested about the Jaxman M8 driver:

  • Jaxman M8 driver
    No stars : H - M - L - Strobe - SOS
    Left star : H - M
    Mid star : L - M - H
    Right star : H - M - Strobe

Until monitor display and camera sensors developed to show/capture true wide spectrum, the only reliable way to share CRI picture report digitally is to read the measurement graphs - and trust the result.

Can anybody specify how about PWM (flickering and sound (whine)) mentioned in first message

I think he mentioned that on Low and Medium you might encounter a slight visible effect of PWM if you try hard but that you are more likely to hear a very low sound of the vibration. I think that’s pretty good.

Does S2+ have any PWM?

Thank you for answer, my english dont are very good.

About S2+
In here mentioned, that “All Convoy lights with 7135 drivers use 4500Hz PWM” I think that taken from candlepowerforum so S2+ 4500Hz and E2 3900Hz

nice to see my shower waterdrop test to detect and measure PWM

“E2 3900Hz” it’s not PWM, it’s pulsation (~20-25%), light output don’t drop to zero.

Convoy S2+ (8x7135) PWM is not visible to me, but it’s clearly audible in medium and to a lower extend in low mode. An audio spectrum app in my phone shows a peak at about 4.6Khz (and multiples) if I put the head of the flashlight next to the phone, which is consistent with the frequency of the PWM.

That’s pretty cool so your phone app could identify flashlights by their sound.

That’s how I had to measure it before this fancy Fluke showed up. Well, that… and just eyeballing it. You know you’ve been playing with flashlights too long when you can tell the approximate PWM speed of pulsed light up to 10 kHz just by looking at it.