Hey PD… in an XM-L2 I love the 4C, but in the XP-L I am really liking 5A3 and in the XP-L Hi I really like the 5A2. I have finally really found the sweet spot for me, when not using a 219B SW40.
OK, I guess this one is not quite finished and this is a teaser. There will be 7x dedomed XPL V6 1A emitters behind narrow TIR optics. I estimate there will be 8000+ lumens OTF and 130+Kcd.
So today I soaked a host in lye to get the ano off. I was really worried for awhile because I left the biggest part in too long and it started turning much darker than the other pieces. I though it was all going to be a mismatch. But then I discovered vinegar and some rubbing washed away the dark coating and brought back the nice bright aluminum.
1. Lye and wire brush
2. White wine vinegar
3. 1000grit sandpaper
4. 000 steel wool
5. Buffing wheel and mother’s mag
6. fast orange and water
Sorry, no pics until the rest of the light is done.
Saw a few a while back put up on ebay as 99 cent auctions. I ended up with 4 total and didn’t pay more than $2.50 for any one.
Got 3 got Gold with UltraFire branding and this VastFire in Black. All are 18650. Did get one 14500 slipped in there too, and I Finally ordered some 14500 batts from MtnE on my last order. Got the Windy ones.
I frequently check “LED” auctions that are “ending soon”. Just gotta get lucky.
Got a few wall chargers with a plug for $1.00 shipped for these lights too on Auction. Gave a couple lights and chargers away with a good laptop pull batt. Nice gift for about $3.50 or less.
also found a charger for $1 110V 220v Power Rechargeable Flashlight Charger 18650 Lithium Battery 4.2V Charger US EU Plug
These chartgers start Red when charging and Green when done.
The flashlights I have use a 20mm MCPCB. Black Vastfire one I put the 219c into had some 3mm junk emitter ant I had to hog out the reflector centering ring. I think the UF brands have the 3.5mm emitters.
I’m finally getting to work on my L2, and the driver build went so smoothly I was practically dancing in my office. I tried dedoming and XM-L2 U3 by mixing a few methods, and the emitter came out incredibly clean. I get it all built turn it on, and it works perfectly. I pull the tail off and hook up my clamp meter to get a reading, tap the button to get to turbo, measure 5.25A and… pop. :rage:
So I assume the bond wires must have been invisibly damaged with my special dedome method. A bit annoying, but whatever. I reflow a new emitter, and just drop it in gas to let it go the old fashioned way. It comes out not perfect, but good enough. Work s great on the power supply, so I get to rebuilding the L2. I have a short somewhere and I can’t figure it out. 45min later it seems it’s finally good. I fire it up, it works great. Turbo is even brighter than before :laughing: So I take the tail off to see what I’m getting with the clamp, tap the button to get to turbo, measure 5.4A and… pop. :rage: :rage: :zipper_mouth_face:
I’ve never had this happen. Never. :weary:
I’m using a Basen cell with a Sir800dp for the first time. I haven’t bypassed the tail spring yet. I can only assume that the resistance of the tail spring kept it from popping in the light, then my thick wire I use with the clamp was just too much.
I need some opinions guys, or maybe even some data :student:
How much power can I continuously run through a red XP-E with no heatsinking without damaging the emitter?
I mean aluminum MCPCB just floating in mid air in a pill. Can I get away with 350ma? I tested a white XP-E2 at 360ma and the mcpcb got really really hot, but after 2min there was no sign of it turning blue.
Well it looks like you are in the perfect position to take some data.
The red XPE has a thermal resistance of 8 C/W. 0.35A(2.1V)=0.735W, so the LED junction would be 5.9C above the MCPCB temp, assuming there is a DTP. If no DTP, the thermal resistance might be significantly higher.
I just did some measurements with an XPG on 16mm Al MCPCB at 2.7V and 0.3A which is 0.8W. The back of the MCPCB gets to around 75C sitting in open air. So if your XPE were on a DTP MCPCB the junction would get to ~81C which shouldn’t do any damage.
So the red will run at 350ma below 2v, so thats only about 0.7w so that’s in my favor.
However I’ve heard the red XP-E is more affected by heat, it won’t be as efficient as the XP-G (so more heat?), and there’s leas cooling in a sealed pill than on a workbench.
So with all of that, do you think I’m still good with 350ma,or should I dial it back to like 200ma?
Well, it’s a 12mm mcpcb that’s been cut down to a narrow strip, still 12mm long but barely wider than the emitter itself. It has some small contact with the side of a pcb and the lip of a brass retaining ring. It’s packed in a small space, but it’s not actually pressed against anything.
Oh, it sounds like there is a lot less surface area than the MCPCB I tested with. I think it should get considerably hotter in this case, so maybe try .2A and see how it goes.