That’s amazing… high lumens is the new small die. Would get a TN42 if I manage to sell my K70
Neat video. I was really hoping to see some of the k70 vs tn 42 shots tho.
Hey Dale, are you considering modding the thing? Sounds like there’s room to up the amps since it doesn’t get hot too fast.
If we wanted to change out the driver, you think it’s possible?
When are the first mods of double current to the XHP35HI going to come? 
Dale, have you checked what’s the PWM frequency? Is it used on all modes other than the highest?
Set your camera to a fixed shutter speed, wave the flashlight (or move the camera itself) in front of it until you get a good shot. Adjust ISO/fstop as needed. Multiply the number of distinct images by the inverse of the shutter speed to get the PWM frequency.
With my Canon G1X, Manual setting, 1/100th sec, varying f stops with each mode level, I get exactly ONE image. All modes.
Edit: For the smart alec’s out there, the one image has one single view of the flashlight, no ghosting, no secondary images. Flashlight waved back and forth while a 10 second timer counted down and snapped the shot.
In order of L-M-H
And for the question about bumping output. The XHP-35 is a 12V emitter that is listed as having a max current of 2A. I have built one that is working at 3.13A but I know it’s got to be on the very edge of going POOF! Several other’s I know have had them fry at high 2.8-2.9A range.
Mine at 3.13A is making 2989 lumens, this TN42 is making 2463 lumens. So while there might be some small gains to be found, it would mostly be invisible to the naked eye. And since I don’t really relish messing up a proprietary driver on a new $200 light, I’m not playing around with it.
2463 lumens for 702.5Kcd and one mile throw suits me just FINE!
Wow, awesome for the TN42, and awesome technique to accurately measure PWM's.
Max current rating is 1A (not 2A), so 3A is actually quite something to maintain, 200% more than max rating.
I don’t know what kind of flashlights y’all got that make those multi image exposures, but every light I try doesn’t show any of that. The little Thrunite Ti AAA, Convoy L6 XHP-70, MecArmy PT16, Solarforce S2200, Nitecore MH20GT, zanflare f1, SkyRayKing 9 emitter with Richards driver…. none show this multi-image effect at 1/100th of a second and waving the light side to side in front of the lens.
HI
I,ve done a (non profesional) review- comparative k70-TN42. Its in spanish Flashlight Forum ForoLinternas. (In spanish).
If there’s no PWM, the image should be a long streak of continuous light, not a single point. If not, you’re not moving the light/camera fast enough.
If you have a BLF D80, drop the shutter speed to 1/10 and try that.
Hi Maiden666, great looking review with plenty of pics. Sorry I can’t read spanish.
I would say you review looks very profesional. Do you feel the TN42 has made much of a step forward over the K70?
Nice review and comparison, love the graphing charts.
It might be very important to note the K70 uses 4 series cells and as such, a Buck driver. The TN42 uses 2P2S and as such, a Boost driver. So the type of cell can probably matter more to the boost circuit than the Buck circuit, in other words, it would probably benefit the TN42 more to use better cells, the K70 wouldn’t show any marked increase for the top or premium cell.
This is me reasoning it out, I really don’t know 100%. What I do know is that my lightbox showed 2463 lumens from the TN42 using Samsung 30Q cells, and 702.5 Kcd throw on my lux meter. I have since proven that Kcd reading out by getting at-target photo’s of the light illuminating a target at one mile, so it’s not just numbers, it’s proven.
Also, for very fast PWM it might be hard to move the light fast enough to see the separate blinks. I just tried with a mtnelectronics FET driver light on low mode and saw a continuous streak.
For PWM over 10kHz it is probably very difficult to capture with a camera, but that’s when it usually doesn’t even bother anyone. I prefer moving the camera rather than the light.
At 1/10th of a second, as fast as I could shake the big flashlight (in firefly mode) side to side…
Now you need to make sure the led is not overexposed. Stop down the camera to f11 or so and adjust ISO down if needed.
You seriously make me laugh!
I take it that the PWM isn’t that bad then
I could set up my 1DsMkII on a tripod and darken the room and go to great lengths, use a shutter release, swing the light on a string from the ceiling, but I’m willing to concede that the little G1X got it right and there’s simply no visible PWM, even at 1/10th of a second shutter.