What did you mod today?

That’s good advice. These were supposed to be my backup batteries, and will probably get some real ones next time. I was kind of surprised that they didn’t fit when I got them, and just didn’t feel going through the trouble of returning them, and just dumping them seemed like such a waste.

EDIT: size-wise, I’m pretty sure these have 14500 in them.

Cooyoo quantum and Veleno D2. Both got a XP-G2 3000K

I just put one of those 4B’s from KD in an L2. It’s quite nice, just a little more tint shift in the spill than I’m used to with the HI, but that might be from the coated lens. Decent performer too, I’m getting 5.7amps

Budda, any specific issues faced when doing those?

Keepin it small… :wink:

Convoy S2 super shorty Mule

1 Thank

CRX, if I send you 3 flashlights, will I get 9 in return?
20 years ago I would have trouble making the tiny things you build. Today I would simply lose it cause I can’t see it.

Possibly not :laughing:

Finally, FINALLY finished building the L2 host that I bought on January 26th. It’s just been sitting here for awhile. It got my first use of the TripleStack driver, complete with my first use of the Sir800DP, and only my second use of the Attiny25 and Bistro. The driver is definitely more work assembling that a traditional design, but for me it’s worth it for the clean look on the battery side. I also could have compressed it quite a bit vertically, but there wasn’t any reason to with the L2’s big driver pocket.

You can see in the pictures below how clean the dedome was on my first emitter, but it wasn’t meant to be, one of 2 XM-L2 U3’s that I popped on this build. I ended up using an XP-L HI V2 4B which is giving me 5.7amps on a Basen. You can also see how I used the solder braid to gain reflector clearance.

I used three gold LEDs and a 50k pot in the tail, with a 1k bleeder on the driver. I had to add some hot glue on the switch post to alleviate some squish caused by the compactness of the reverse-clicky vs foward-clicky.

I’d take my chance vw. It sounds like a better bet you getting nine lights back than getting a half descent SRK of Ebay.


In post #1451 I started this small AA zoomie mod, tonight I did more work on this light.
I noticed that the output was not stable and I could tell that the stock switch was the cause. If I could source a retaining ring, a common small Omten switch could be fitted, even a lighted tail could be possible. So I found an old 16340 light in the parts box that had the correct tail threading, a slice of that made for a fitting retaining ring for the AT-007. With the Omten switch, the output became completely stable (so the stock switch was rubbish), the output went up to 500 lumen, and throw (measured at 7 meter, 30 seconds after switch-on) went up to 41 kcd, that is 25% increase because of a better switch!

The rest of the evening was spent with getting a lighted tail to work but despite trying every combination of bleeder value, number of tail leds and all values of tail resistors, the UI was screwed up (backwards modes lost, no reset to low even after been switched off for minutes). This host combined with XP-G2 and 15mm Bistro driver is not suitable for a lighted tail.

Still wonder what electronic secrets happen with the lighted tail circuitry making drivers go weird, as a layman equipped with just Ohm’s law I can not get any grip on it.

I’ll explain what you need to know later when I have a little more time djozz. :person_facepalming:

only taking apart the quantum required a lot of time.
I had to heat it a bit and then I used a couple of nails in the wood to win over the 2 bezels, but the first one was the most time consuming.

For the quantum, given the very small space on the board , I let the board in the pill and heat it everything with a heatgun from the bottom. Did the same for the new emitter. Then I had to resolder the solder spot on the metallic switch cover, for that I used the normal soldering station.

Nice work Budda. The little lights are tough to work on as everything is so close together and heat to work on one thing spreads quickly to everything else.

Anyone have a great way to remove a Lummi bezel that has no cut-outs or holes for tweezers? Smooth on top, it came to me with no o-ring, when I tried fitting an o-ring it got stuck… can’t screw it all the way in to lock the pill down nor can I remove it.

Hi guys. I haven’t done a thing in four months due to lack of energy. My doctor still hasn’t figured it out what’s wrong with me, but today I dragged my butt to the work table to build a light I should have finished in the spring.

Jaxman Z1 zoomie.

I decided to go for the XPH35 HI emitter. I know there’s been a few XPH35 builds done on the Z1 using boost drivers, so I decided to go with the 4S 16.8V MTN-MAX buck driver set at 2.5A
It’s a pretty easy build, which took all the energy I had. I really only had to solder two wires and color the white centering ring with a black Sharpie. (No, not that Sharpie! The kind you draw with. :person_facepalming: )
It’s not the Jaxman supplied centering ring, but one I had that was just right for the XPH35 in this light.

The centering ring was a perfect fit and came out okay with the blackening on it.

Four series 26350s to go with 4S 2.5A buck driver, which ended up with 2.8A at the tail.

It’s really bright on high. Wall shot of the zoomed in HXP-35 emitter. Looks nice. Doesn’t have the visible quad matrix of the HXP 50 and 70

It was a good day. I got something done, and I’ll test it this evening down in the ravine during my “Doctor suggested ” daily walk.

That sounded like a good bit of therapy Of. All the best buddy.

Decided to resurrect the large fresnel lens from my spotlight build from a long time ago.

I made some Al arms to mount this lens on my UF-1504. I took out the aspheric lens and screwed the arms to the bezel.

A bit of “garage engineering”. Well, porch engineering in my case.

In the light I have a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B (old production style) and the precollimator lens I installed a while back. The beam is not great. It is yellowish and rainbow-y on the edges. I have a XPL HI V2 1A in another pill that maybe will counteract the yellowness. I measured 4,700Kcd at 10.25m. Similar result to the large fresnel thrower that djozz built.

Thanks MRsDNF. I hope you made it through the magpie swooping season safely.

Wow. What a project. Keep at it and get us some beamshots.
A continuing saga that will always be in the Beta mode.

Nice projects, both Ouchyfoot and EasyB!

And I wish you better times Ouchy, glad to see some flashlight work again!

I did a thing.
I modded my Klarus G20 with a tail clicky switch to eliminate any parasitic drain, plus eliminate the accidental activation with the protruding side switch when in a pocket or the holster.
I also swapped the cool white XHP70 with a 4000K MT-G2, so now it has a nice neutral tint, and no more greenish hotspot and no more purplish blue spill. It’s still not the claimed 3000 Lumens, but the annoying bugs i didn’t like about this light are fixed. Now i have a G20 with a mechanical lockout, and a perfect tint monster pocket flooder light.