EagleEye X2R Mod and Discussion thread

[Woytas]

I have more 18350 batteries than 18650. The 18350 format is much nicer to me because I don’t need long runtime.
With 18350 tube it would be one of the smallest tube flashlights with built-in charging, and probably the cheapest one. Perfect for a gift.

[pilotdog68]

You’re right there. I personally just prefer the slimmer 14500 for a small size.

In any case I have messaged EE and told them there would be a lot of interest if they would make an 18350 tube themselves.

[Antenne]

Is there a simple mod to get more amps with the stock driver?

[will34]

Oh BTW here’s my mod if anyone wants to do a off-the-shelf driver swap.

What did you mod today?

The black X2R receives the typical XP-L HI & FET+1 treatment. 15mm FET+1 with bistro FW from RMM: in the charging PCB the first two pin are removed, the second one replaced by 22awg teflon wire and connects to the positive side of the driver, third pin is shortened and soldered to the ( - ) ring. Two extra solder points secures the microUSB connector housing (connected to ground) with the new driver. It is very firmly secured and won’t require potting. [image] [image] [image] The XP-L HI V1…

@Antenne

Is there a simple mod to get more amps with the stock driver?

I think chip stacking is possible, however these are not the common 350mA 7135 chips, they are much smaller.

[pilotdog68]

Ok, I have the X2R board updated to be as close as possible to perfect (only a week late). If you order from Oshpark, be sure to get the thinner 0.8mm size. The large pad on the bottom is where the MicroUSB connector is on the charger board. You want to carefully solder them together for least resistance.

Here she is:

Parts list:
*all minor parts are 0805 sized
All values are pretty standard for BLF drivers
R1: 19.1k
R2: 4.7k
R3: 4.7ohm
C1: 10uf
OTC: 1uf
D1: Reverse-polarity Schottkey diode
FET: LFPAK33 sized, I used NXP PSMN2R4-30MLDX

Attiny13 or Attiny25 sized pads for the MCU.

[Bourbon_Guy]

Ordered. Thank you very much.

[hexcode]

Hello pilotdog68,

Does the charger board still cut off power to the flashlight with the new driver while charging? or will it need to stay in ML mode during charging? Or did you add an off mode to the firmware?

[Loui.locke]

Hey Guys,

Newbie here.

So i’ve seen this thread and instantly ordered an X2R, can’t what to do this mod myself.
So Oshspark seems to be some kind of platform where you can buy pcbs designed and shared by other people…cool didn’t knew that. Pilotgog ( ) was so kind to share the components….so far so good, but what about the controller? Don’t i need some kind of firmware to run that driver?

Please help me out

Awesome project, i just had crappy china-lights until now and even they were amazingly bright though of poor build quality.

Thanks guys

[pilotdog68]

Yes, you’ll need to program the controller. Here i a guide for the Attiny13a. You will need just a minor change to flash the Attiny25 that you want for this build.

This is one of the better guides here on BLF, though it has been discussed many places: Guide: how to flash ATtiny13a based drivers (NANJG, QLITE, etc.) with custom firmware

Welcome!

[Loui.locke]

Thanks !!

[pilotdog68]

@hexcode

Hello pilotdog68,

Does the charger board still cut off power to the flashlight with the new driver while charging? or will it need to stay in ML mode during charging? Or did you add an off mode to the firmware?

I added an off mode in the firmware. I used bistro, and changed the hidden modes (that you go backwards to get into) to be just battcheck and then ‘off’

[Bourbon_Guy]

@pilotdog68

@hexcode

Hello pilotdog68,

Does the charger board still cut off power to the flashlight with the new driver while charging? or will it need to stay in ML mode during charging? Or did you add an off mode to the firmware?

I added an off mode in the firmware. I used bistro, and changed the hidden modes (that you go backwards to get into) to be just battcheck and then ‘off’

Brilliant solution. Care to share the firmware?

[Bourbon_Guy]

To those interested in a 18350 tube for this light, I ordered a black convoy s2+ tube from mtnelectronics on 10/6 that is working perfectly. Anno and knurling are very close as well.

[WojtekimbieR]

@Bourbon Guy

To those interested in a 18350 tube for this light, I ordered a black convoy s2+ tube from mtnelectronics on 10/6 that is working perfectly. Anno and knurling are very close as well.

I recall people reported this in "what LEGOes" thread but nice you confirm it

[pilotdog68]

@Bourbon Guy

Brilliant solution. Care to share the firmware?

I’d be happy to! the problem is I always see this at work and by the time I’m home I forget about it :person_facepalming:

[vwpieces]

@pilotdog68

I’d be happy to! the problem is I always see this at work and by the time I’m home I forget about it

Ha,
you just reminded of something I have to do for someone at work, and keep forgetting once I am home.
Seriously, Thanks.

[juaquin]

Hey PD86

I got around to building a x2r triplestack with your latest PCB (thank you for doing this work!).

I reflowed everything and went to program it and encountered issues. After testing my programmer on a different board and confirming it worked, I started toning out the pins on the attiny25 and found that pins 4, 6, and 7 are connected (i.e. 6 and 7 are connected to ground). I confirmed this on another unpopulated copy of the board . My third copy was ok so I’m going to rebuild it on that board.

Not sure if it’s an OSHPark issue but you might want to move the traces a bit, or people should order a handful and tone them out before picking one to build on.

[pilotdog68]

@Bourbon Guy

@pilotdog68

@hexcode

Hello pilotdog68,

Does the charger board still cut off power to the flashlight with the new driver while charging? or will it need to stay in ML mode during charging? Or did you add an off mode to the firmware?

I added an off mode in the firmware. I used bistro, and changed the hidden modes (that you go backwards to get into) to be just battcheck and then ‘off’

Brilliant solution. Care to share the firmware?

Here is my C file

Pastebin

Keep in mind I also made lots of other changes to the mode groups and ramp sizes, so in use it feels much different than “normal” bistro.

[pilotdog68]

@juaquin

Hey PD86

I got around to building a x2r triplestack with your latest PCB (thank you for doing this work!).

I reflowed everything and went to program it and encountered issues. After testing my programmer on a different board and confirming it worked, I started toning out the pins on the attiny25 and found that pins 4, 6, and 7 are connected (i.e. 6 and 7 are connected to ground). I confirmed this on another unpopulated copy of the board . My third copy was ok so I’m going to rebuild it on that board.

Not sure if it’s an OSHPark issue but you might want to move the traces a bit, or people should order a handful and tone them out before picking one to build on.

interesting that they could get one right but not the others. Perhaps I did get the traces a little too close directly under the mcu. I’ll take the link down for now.

If anyone else is planning on ordering my X2R board, message me and I will fix the issue and repost.

[Bourbon_Guy]

Thanks PD. I’ll meter my boards tomorrow and report back.