D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Yes, I haven’t tweak it to get my ideal brightness.
Soldering SMD into driver board took a lot of patiences because I don’t have any proper soldering iron yet :person_facepalming:

I’d say jump straight to 6.8k or higher.

I haven’t looked, what do the astrolux S2’s use for the tailcap led?

Hmm I want to say maybe 2.2k?

Well I just pulled out the oshpark boards and parts to put together some of these finally but realized I made a mistake in ordering.

It seems I ordered 6x 5.1 19mm led ring and 6x of the pryo 16mm? switch board.

I could make it work in an S2 tailcap but I wanted to use it in an S2+ to start out with.

So to make sure I don’t make another mistake, what boards should I order to be able to build both S2+ and S2 tailcaps with the ones I have now included?

Any different parts for the astrolux tailcaps? What about the C8, 501b & solarforce L2?

I’m assuming that means you ordered the BIG SWITCH version?

For the S2+ (and most of the smaller 18650 lights) You’ll want either the 16mm Rev5.1 (for three channels) or the 16mm Rev5.3 Top (for two channels).

Both should work fine with the pyro boards, you’ll just need to buzz them out to see where to solder to.

I think I will do my own version of the pyro board soon specifically updated for the LED ring and my jumper pins.

No, apparently this is the one that had been linked to in the OP before you updated it: OSH Park ~

The 5.1 you linked to says it works with 14mm boots like the astrolux, does the 5.3 as well? I think 2 channels is enough, I don’t see me using more then 2 colors at a time.

What about switch boards for the S2’s larger cavity?

I was actually gonna ask if there was a header pin version as that would be much simpler. Do you think you would get around to that anytime soon?

Although I am debating between the switch and pot under the spring. I suppose you could just turn the pot all the way one direction and it should turn the LED off thus netting the same result? The pot under the spring saves the cost of the switch which is nice.

Yeah, that’s the though behind the pot in the spring. I’ll get to that version this week.

For the ring, the 16mm Rev5.3 is actually 16.75mm wide, so it should work for 90% of lights, including both 14mm and 16mm boots.

The 5.1x is weird, that’s why I removed it from the OP. It will only work with 16mm I think as the LEDs sit further out from the center.

Ok, so the 5.3 ring sounds like the best option for the LED’s.

I will wait till you get a switch board made up with header pins to order that, no rush. I am in not hurry for this particular mod. Still trying to figure out how what I am going to do with all the lights I have as it is before I start making them glow lol.

I’m just running out of ways to name all these versions. I already have Rev5.3 Bottom. What would I call this, Rev5.3 Bottompot? Do I jump to Rev5.4? It doesn’t seem like a evolutionary change, just a step to the side.

I’m trying to keep the names as easy as possible, but I know it isn’t exactly working.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. The names are very confusing for sure but I could not think of a better way so I kept my mouth shut. Same issue I am running into with the TA drivers.

I am trying to label each driver with a name that describes what it exists for instead of just more numbers, for example the LDO series are the same as the normal version names except with LDO added. Thus they have an LDO. It is still getting a little confusing though.

I think the best option is a clear explanation system for the different boards. Either on OSHpark or the OP.

Something that details exactly why each board was created and what it does that others do not. Also examples of what lights it fits and what dimensions are important to see if it will fit.

Thats a lot of work though.

If the 5.3 is more of less universal for the smaller tailcaps then you might consider standardizing things a bit and moving most of them to another post/end of the OP and focusing instead on just a handful of boards that cover the vast majority of mods. The more universal the parts the better for first timers, once they have done a few they will see whats important and whats not.

Yeah, but they all really have their own merits. I like 2 channels so 5.3 works for me, but a lot of people still like the 3 channel version, so I can’t really get rid of it. The ones that I felt were really redundant or unnecessary I just removed from the OP (like the first Rev5 top and Rev5.1x). I thought about getting rid of all of the original versions that don’t use the ring and only have 2 LEDs, but someone just ordered that version to use a couple weeks ago.

I tried to standardize the descriptions in the OP as much as possible. Does it still need work?

It is always hard to make things understandable to an outsider once you have become an insider. I run into this all the time.

Even now I forget with the TA drivers to make things simpler and am always having to edit things to add more details for the new comers that don’t have a clue what we are talking about. For example it took me weeks to understand what the “standard parts list” was that was always mentioned.

The op is much better then it was for sure. the only thing really missing are notes on what has not changed between versions. The reader will generally assume that more then just minor details will have changed between versions.

I usually assume the number before the dot is for major revisions and the number after the dot is for minor revisions. With some projects, they add another dot to the mix, as another subset. So, it would be MAJOR.IMPORTANT.MINOR or something like that. With options, like adding an LDO, you could do MAJOR.MINOR.OPT like 5.3.LDO and 5.3.STAR and 5.3.ESWITCH or something similar. I’ve become so accustomed to organizing my computer into sub-sub-sub-folders, this stuff is second-nature to me. Yes, I’m a NERD! :nerd_face:

Here she is. A bottom switch PCB with a single pot in the middle of the spring. Very similar to Pyro’s board, just updated to work with the header pins and ring top boards. Also added to OP

I’m currently using 4K7 resistor and still too bright. But I’ll stick into it before I receive transparent rubber cap from KD and get transparent washer.

Thanks pilotdog68.

Hey, you might have to go way higher. I have a 50k pot maxed out in one light, I had to jump to 100k pots.

With the ring top boards the resistors on this boards are optional, that means I can use 0 Ohm resistors, if I use this pot PCB, isnt it?
The Pot and the resistors on the top ring board are series, arent they?

Edit: found an explanation/answer to my questions: D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap - #626 by djozz

You are correct on both counts