D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Hey, you might have to go way higher. I have a 50k pot maxed out in one light, I had to jump to 100k pots.

With the ring top boards the resistors on this boards are optional, that means I can use 0 Ohm resistors, if I use this pot PCB, isnt it?
The Pot and the resistors on the top ring board are series, arent they?

Edit: found an explanation/answer to my questions: D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap - #626 by djozz

You are correct on both counts

Just mod two Thorfire TG06 and this is my current favorite AA size light.

no bleeder needed :smiley:

Great, I will order some of those with the 5.3 rings and that should get me going. Thanks!

I just ordered some myself. Normally I like to have the “presets” of the switch, but it’s more parts and more soldering. I just had a light this week that I wished I had one of these boards for.

Anyways, I’m almost out of springs. Many times I steal the spring from the stock switch pcb, but I can’t always do that. What springs do you guys use?

Springs 8mm(D)x9.5mm(H)

i use this for my convoy s2+ and other lights with similar diameter on the tail

Size looks good, how stiff is it? Could I compress it with my fingers without difficulty? I like my springs a little on the softer side.

cant really tell how soft as my finger can push hard :P. I can check tomorrow.

Are you worrying about protected cells getting crush?

cool picture, N !! :slight_smile:

edit: just ordered a bunch of these switchboards with pot, thanks pd!

thanks djozz :slight_smile:

im so obsess with these tail lights so i mod all my lights hahah :smiley:

Yes. I have some that have dented the caps on my flat top batteries.

I have a few springs that even pushing until it’s painful they won’t compress more than 1 or 2 mm. I want them just strong enough to keep the cell from bashing around. Also I need to be able to push them to the side to access the switch or pot in the middle.

you can use hammer to press down the spring or trim the base so it reduce the height to allow room

I want to populate my s41’s tail cap, is this the correct orientation?
Also where can i get translucent/clear gaskets for my convoy s2+?

The pos+ end of the LED should be flipped, towards the resistor

So do the convoy s2+ metal switch hosts now come with the clear rubber in the switch? Or do we have to make a special request when ordering from Simon or Richard?

You may want to PM J-dub, I’m not sure if he is still watching this thread or not.

Ok, will do thanks

I’ve been holding off on this mod for long enough, just can’t stand it anymore! :wink:

Thinking about starting off with a “basic” single-color lighted tailcap for my S6 with Qlite. Despite reading and searching through hundreds of posts, I’ve got a few questions:

# From what I’ve read, many of you haven’t needed a bleeder for your Qlites? I’ll add ’em if needed, but might try without first.

# For doing a single color of LEDS and using a pot, I can just jump the resistor pads on the ring board, right?

# Any criteria on whether I should get 50k or 100k pots?

# I’ve got the following items on my shopping list. Anything I’m missing?

  • Top board, Rev 5.3
  • Bottom board, Rev 5.3 Pot
  • SMD resistor, bleeder (470 or 680 Ohm)
  • SMD Pot (50k or 100k)
  • SMD 0805 LEDs (probably getting blue)
  • Otmen 1288 switch
  • Clear switch boot

Edit: After further reading, I’m considering going even more basic and just getting ring boards, resistors, LEDs, and clear tailcaps. Stacking the ring on the stock board instead of a new one.

The resistor-pads needs to be connected with a short wire or a 0 Ohm resistor.
100k is able to make the led darker. With 50k you can adjust the output of the led a bit better.
I dont checked the number of the Otmen but you can use your former switch too. You doesn’t need a new one.

Anyone else maybe able to help you with the further questions.