Review Of Nitecore TM16GT

Since I wasn’t satisfied with the result I got from the turbo runtime test, I made other tests, new test with LG HG2.
I used 4 LG HG2 fully charged, and turned on the light for 60’, then I turned it off for 60’. I repeted this for some times.
Then, I charged the same batteries again and left the light on, without cooling or pause.


Apologize for the errors in the mesurement: the variations you can see in the blue series are due to the movement of objects near the luxmeters or the fact that the mesurement was taken from the instrument while I was turning on the light, so the sensor was “ramping” up.

Still, you can clearly see the difference between the 2 curves. There is definetly a mechanism that regulates the output:temperature ratio.
I added the linear curves of each series, because I found them rather interesting. I plan to do more test mixing cooling and pause, to see what’s the best combination for the regulation.

Beautiful review! Thank you!

Well done review. Thanks for posting.

great review!

thanks for sharing :slight_smile:

Thanks Budda. Nice review!

I found it at $179.00.Do you think it is a good price?

Great review. I adore this light.

See if you can drop M4DM4X a PM to better that price.

I can wait of course,as Martin is recovering,but also there is a holiday in China till 8th I think.

Hi Budda.
I have read yesterday that a guy here in Greece dedomed the leds of a Fenix TK75, 2015 edition,so it has 313000cd now.Having ordered the 16GT,which is now in the Athens airport and I will receive it in a couple of days,I ask if you believe that this 16GT,is possible to be modded for better throw.
Because,you know,that I bought this over the Fenix,because of the better throw,and now I see the dedomed Fenix is better in this field.
I have a K70 for thrower,but I would like to boost this also,if it is possible. :wink:

Who knows. the TM16GT already has dedomed emitters, so maybe you could benefit using other dedomed emitters, like XP-G2.
I dont know.
I know that the baseplate of the TM16GT has a proprietary format made to maximize heat dissipation, and is compatible with XP format only.

OK,thank you.

Hi Budda.
I received the light yesterday,put four 30Qs,two of which are original button top,and the other two,are semi button top,as they have a raised top,but not exactly protruded as usual.
I have a problem to screw the tail cap,but only when there are batteries in,while it is very easy,when there are not.
Does someone face the same problem please?
And something about the intensity.I measured it at two distances,4.8m and 6.8m and the result is identical.Only 220000cd.Batteries are those 30Qs full charged by a LiitoKala 500.

I just pulled my flashlight out to use it after being stored for a few months and noticed the batterris needed charged so I threw them on the Opus and 2 batteries were at 4.1v and the other 2 batteries were at like 3.8v, strange. Anyone else notice this?

I did have it set in locate mode or whatever it’s called was curious to see how long they would last with the blue leds flashing intermittently, do the blue lights on the buttons draw power from only 2 batteries or something? Would that even be possible? Probably not. Any ideas?

I unscrew the tail cap till I don’t see the blue blinking anymore.So,there is not any current drain.

Sounds like Nitecore’s “patented” parasitic drain feature just like in the TM06S*, only not so bad.

*Edit: TM06, not sure about the TM06S

But in just 2 of the 4 batterries? That’s the confusing part.

The fact they continue to release products with parasitic drain is disheartening. The small $30 TIP had it also but in that case they listened to customers and fixed the issue.

they use 4S for the power part in the LED driver

BUT

they pull the juice for the driver itself from the middle (2S)

thats why only 2 cells are used in soft standby...

they use 4S for the power part in the LED driver

BUT

they pull the juice for the driver itself from the middle (2S)

thats why only 2 cells are used in soft standby...

Thanks for the explanation. But hold on, this was the case with the TM06 (not sure about the TM06S though) as well right, with the rear clicky switch; only two cells would loose juice. But if the light uses 4S from the batteries, doesn’t this simply mean that you are using differently charged cells which we should avoid at all times? So isn’t this a really bad design?

That is correct, but there are ways to work around it. Obviously the first option is to physically lockout the light by partially unscrewing the tail cap. Another option, the one I use, is to rotate the pairs of 186550s to even out the effects of the parasitic drain. I also don’t let the cells drain below 4.0v before I swap them. By doing this I keep the load closer to even on all the cells, and they all recharge the same amount. Tacky, but it helps.

I too wonder what the deal is with Nitecore and parasitic drain. Some of their lights the drain is so low that for all intents and purposes it is not there. I have some Tubes that I got when they first shipped, and they still have a charge and light up just fine. Then my EA11 kills its 14500 after only a couple of months of lockout. Looks like the have the new designers working on the drivers, without supervision.