LiitoKala 26650-50A 5000mah 26650 - great first impressions

Can you please tell me what changes you have done to the U21,so as to bring it to 240Kcd?I have a friend here in Greece,who could possibly do something about. :slight_smile:

Sorry, should do a full mod thread on it. I piggybacked in a 17 mm FET+1 driver, using the SIR800DP FET. 20 AWG LED wires, 20 AWG bypass on the driver spring, and I believe 22 AWG wire bypass on the tailcap spring - no need to remove the spring/PCB from the tailcap - easy enough to do in place.

Then on the LED side, the stock MCPCB is true DTP and nice big 28mm size. So I removed the stock XHP35 from it, replaced with a XPL V6 0D (XPL W2 1A on the other), then dedomed it. For both dedomes I used ZEP Aerosolve II. The V6 0D is a nasty dedome - doesn't come off cleanly, but the W2 1A dedomed easy. Could use gas or heat, whatever you prefer.

So, between the FET+1 driver and the dedomed XPL V6/W2, you got all the makings for some great throw'n for a Manker U21. It's all a shame of course because you are throwing away some expensive parts, but hey - do you want the most out of it or not?

More details:

  • For my driver, I used an Attiny85 running Narsil v1.2, so got all the bells&whistles, but I prefer the smooth ramping mode.
  • In this case I used an MTN17DDm bare driver and tweaked the parts a bit with my own Narsil/e-switch setup. Special mod is to add the 4.7 ohm resistor prior to the D1 diode
  • piggybacking a driver - strip all components off the stock driver, find a good position for mounting the driver with Batt- points for your supporting grnd wires. I used four 22 AWG teflon wire - very stiff, very solid mount for the 17mm driver - gotta keep a low profile because not much clearance in the U21 pill area.
  • after positioning, I drilled a hole in about the middle of the stock driver to thread the Batt+ wire directly from the spring, thru the stock driver, thru the piggyback 17, then direct to the MCPCB.

Result:

Wired up to the harness for the switch, grnd, and RED LED control:

Used a 5.6K resistor for the RED LED - seemed to work out well.

Full photo albums for both U21's: photobucket MankerU21-LJ and mine: photobucket MankerU21 - TomE

Thank you very much Tom E.

You know I’m coming around Tom so you can explain all that to me in English. :blush:

In case you missed it Tom E has an informative review of the Manker U21.

Hmmmm, thanks. I was thinking he had said just a few post back he “should do one”???
I’ll check it out, cause I always love his reviews. Thanks again…… :+1:

Edit: Never mind that was a comment about doing a “mod thread” in post # 180. I just misread it.

It's a little ironic they give a light to a modder to review. What do they expect?

They got a good review that helped me decide to obtain this Manker; I have been pleased with it too. :slight_smile:

Yea, I really do like it as well. It just feels like quality, and it's small, compact, and can be made quite powerful. I was really intrigued by the U11 too, and got one couple weeks ago at a great price and am really impressed with it. It's another light that feels great in your hand, has a very similar style of the U21, plus has the portability to carry with you all the time. I always liked compact 18650 lights that can easily be EDC'ed, but also has some throw - the U11 is that light. So mine survived bout 2 weeks before I had to find out how moddable it really is.

Thank you very much side-cross,I’ll see.

In which other flashlights can these batteries works perfectly except Convoy L6 and Manker U21?

Unfortunately, those batteries have been “nerfed” , so typicaly for China producers…not that bad actualy yet nerfed
The capacity now is arround 5000mah( 5400-5500) before yet the int resistance rised and ofc max amp values dropped by 200-300ma
Even so its equal to Efest 4200 Pirple, yet noone can guarantee us future nerfs

It has also a new code……At least those coming from GB

These batteries work in my Manker U21.

Boy, that's some bad news... But never heard the expression "nerfed" before. I really was thinking the LK's were an upgrade to the "Powerizer" 26650 cell that for dropped by the seller couple years ago - best performing 26650 cell at the time. Me and Dale might have been the only ones into them, or least reporting on them. The labeling looks very much the same between the two, so might have been the same source.

Wonder if these from RIC are still the old style: http://cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2250

I use these LK's in pretty much all my single 26650 lights, and then some - tons of lights.

I use these LK batteries in my single cell 26650 lights too with no problem.

Never heard? Realy?

It was invented by US WoW players 10 years ago, after Blizzard constant characters “nerfs” :smiley:
By that time i used to play that game with a Paladin, a shitty character but impossible to kill too, rofl

Yeah Tom, thats how the new ones look like, you can clearly see the code difference compared to my first picture

Dang...

Tom E and sidecross please name some of yours single cell 26650 lights.

I use these batteries in the Fenix PD40 and FD40 as well as the Manker U21.

Yikes - PK26, Convoy L2, HD2010's, Thorfire JM07's, Z1, X1, Yezl Y3's, FandyFire K2, Warsun, UranusFire C818, 1405's, SupFire L5's and L6, Convoy X3, plus more unbranded or forgetting.