cool picture, N !!
edit: just ordered a bunch of these switchboards with pot, thanks pd!
cool picture, N !!
edit: just ordered a bunch of these switchboards with pot, thanks pd!
thanks djozz
im so obsess with these tail lights so i mod all my lights hahah
Yes. I have some that have dented the caps on my flat top batteries.
I have a few springs that even pushing until it’s painful they won’t compress more than 1 or 2 mm. I want them just strong enough to keep the cell from bashing around. Also I need to be able to push them to the side to access the switch or pot in the middle.
you can use hammer to press down the spring or trim the base so it reduce the height to allow room
I want to populate my s41’s tail cap, is this the correct orientation?
Also where can i get translucent/clear gaskets for my convoy s2+?
The pos+ end of the LED should be flipped, towards the resistor
So do the convoy s2+ metal switch hosts now come with the clear rubber in the switch? Or do we have to make a special request when ordering from Simon or Richard?
You may want to PM J-dub, I’m not sure if he is still watching this thread or not.
Ok, will do thanks
I’ve been holding off on this mod for long enough, just can’t stand it anymore!
Thinking about starting off with a “basic” single-color lighted tailcap for my S6 with Qlite. Despite reading and searching through hundreds of posts, I’ve got a few questions:
# From what I’ve read, many of you haven’t needed a bleeder for your Qlites? I’ll add ’em if needed, but might try without first.
# For doing a single color of LEDS and using a pot, I can just jump the resistor pads on the ring board, right?
# Any criteria on whether I should get 50k or 100k pots?
# I’ve got the following items on my shopping list. Anything I’m missing?
Edit: After further reading, I’m considering going even more basic and just getting ring boards, resistors, LEDs, and clear tailcaps. Stacking the ring on the stock board instead of a new one.
The resistor-pads needs to be connected with a short wire or a 0 Ohm resistor.
100k is able to make the led darker. With 50k you can adjust the output of the led a bit better.
I dont checked the number of the Otmen but you can use your former switch too. You doesn’t need a new one.
Anyone else maybe able to help you with the further questions.
I just built my first lighted tailcap. I have a Cometa which had a way too bright tailcap so I replaced it with a 5.3 version with 6x red LED’s.
It looks very nice:)
Just have 1 heads up for you all, on the bottom between the switches all 4 via’s were shorted(I ordered 6 PCB’s, they are all shorted). this resulted in a few burned red LED’s (forgot to set the current limiter on the power supply).
So I’d suggest measuring the resistance before soldering the switches, it is easy to cut between the via’s with a knife to undo the short when there are no components mounted yet.
Also: how are you all measuring the small currents? I’d like to measure the parasitic drain of mine.
I’m not following. What vias were shorted?
I ordered 9 pieces. Only one shorted there:
These were all shorted on the board I received. I am not sure if it was on 1 side or both, I just made sure it was nowhere after I was done with them.
hmm very strange. I have used at least 6 of those boards, and never had a short. Oshpark appears to be slipping with their QC
As a noob it’s so difficult to obtain information on where to buy which parts in which size … I’m in the process of modding s2+ but the info is so scattered :weary:
It’s scattered because there’s not just one answer.
Tell us what you want to do and we’ll tell you what parts to buy. (and don’t forget there are already a few links in the OP)
Thanks!
I want to convert the S2+ to a tripple with metal, illuminated taillight. Already ordered the Copper S2+ heatsink by Hoop. That’s where I stand now and I know I can buy the rest of the stuff from Mountain Electronics.
Now only to choose between drivers and LED’s :D. And the translucent O-ring, the fitting switch board, LED’s for that one, etc
Got the hosts with metal switches etc. already.
Would you rather use resistors (easier to solder) or potentiometers (easier to adjust) for the tail light?