Yes. I have some that have dented the caps on my flat top batteries.
I have a few springs that even pushing until it’s painful they won’t compress more than 1 or 2 mm. I want them just strong enough to keep the cell from bashing around. Also I need to be able to push them to the side to access the switch or pot in the middle.
So do the convoy s2+ metal switch hosts now come with the clear rubber in the switch? Or do we have to make a special request when ordering from Simon or Richard?
I’ve been holding off on this mod for long enough, just can’t stand it anymore!
Thinking about starting off with a “basic” single-color lighted tailcap for my S6 with Qlite. Despite reading and searching through hundreds of posts, I’ve got a few questions:
# From what I’ve read, many of you haven’t needed a bleeder for your Qlites? I’ll add ’em if needed, but might try without first.
# For doing a single color of LEDS and using a pot, I can just jump the resistor pads on the ring board, right?
# Any criteria on whether I should get 50k or 100k pots?
# I’ve got the following items on my shopping list. Anything I’m missing?
Top board, Rev 5.3
Bottom board, Rev 5.3 Pot
SMD resistor, bleeder (470 or 680 Ohm)
SMD Pot (50k or 100k)
SMD 0805 LEDs (probably getting blue)
Otmen 1288 switch
Clear switch boot
Edit: After further reading, I’m considering going even more basic and just getting ring boards, resistors, LEDs, and clear tailcaps. Stacking the ring on the stock board instead of a new one.
The resistor-pads needs to be connected with a short wire or a 0 Ohm resistor.
100k is able to make the led darker. With 50k you can adjust the output of the led a bit better.
I dont checked the number of the Otmen but you can use your former switch too. You doesn’t need a new one.
Anyone else maybe able to help you with the further questions.
I just built my first lighted tailcap. I have a Cometa which had a way too bright tailcap so I replaced it with a 5.3 version with 6x red LED’s.
It looks very nice:)
Just have 1 heads up for you all, on the bottom between the switches all 4 via’s were shorted(I ordered 6 PCB’s, they are all shorted). this resulted in a few burned red LED’s (forgot to set the current limiter on the power supply).
So I’d suggest measuring the resistance before soldering the switches, it is easy to cut between the via’s with a knife to undo the short when there are no components mounted yet.
Also: how are you all measuring the small currents? I’d like to measure the parasitic drain of mine.
As a noob it’s so difficult to obtain information on where to buy which parts in which size … I’m in the process of modding s2+ but the info is so scattered :weary:
I want to convert the S2+ to a tripple with metal, illuminated taillight. Already ordered the Copper S2+ heatsink by Hoop. That’s where I stand now and I know I can buy the rest of the stuff from Mountain Electronics.
Now only to choose between drivers and LED’s :D. And the translucent O-ring, the fitting switch board, LED’s for that one, etc
Alright, I’ve ordered parts for mine (doing 1 or more S2 / S6). Grabbed a batch of the Rev 5.3 top boards, these LEDs, and these resistors (overkill, but I didn’t feel like waiting on parts from China and I should be set for a lifetime!). I’ll get clear switch covers on my next order from Simon.
Since I’m doing all one color, I can just jump the “P” (parallel) pad, put a single resistor (around 3k-10k ohms) on the R1 pads, and leave the R2 pads alone, right? Sound like a reasonable plan?
PS - once those resistors come in, if anyone in the US needs a few, feel free to drop me a PM. I may be able to spare a couple of the 3400 resistors I have coming my way.