Ok, will do thanks
I’ve been holding off on this mod for long enough, just can’t stand it anymore! 
Thinking about starting off with a “basic” single-color lighted tailcap for my S6 with Qlite. Despite reading and searching through hundreds of posts, I’ve got a few questions:
# From what I’ve read, many of you haven’t needed a bleeder for your Qlites? I’ll add ’em if needed, but might try without first.
# For doing a single color of LEDS and using a pot, I can just jump the resistor pads on the ring board, right?
# Any criteria on whether I should get 50k or 100k pots?
# I’ve got the following items on my shopping list. Anything I’m missing?
- Top board, Rev 5.3
- Bottom board, Rev 5.3 Pot
- SMD resistor, bleeder (470 or 680 Ohm)
- SMD Pot (50k or 100k)
- SMD 0805 LEDs (probably getting blue)
- Otmen 1288 switch
- Clear switch boot
Edit: After further reading, I’m considering going even more basic and just getting ring boards, resistors, LEDs, and clear tailcaps. Stacking the ring on the stock board instead of a new one.
The resistor-pads needs to be connected with a short wire or a 0 Ohm resistor.
100k is able to make the led darker. With 50k you can adjust the output of the led a bit better.
I dont checked the number of the Otmen but you can use your former switch too. You doesn’t need a new one.
Anyone else maybe able to help you with the further questions.
I just built my first lighted tailcap. I have a Cometa which had a way too bright tailcap so I replaced it with a 5.3 version with 6x red LED’s.
It looks very nice:)
Just have 1 heads up for you all, on the bottom between the switches all 4 via’s were shorted(I ordered 6 PCB’s, they are all shorted). this resulted in a few burned red LED’s (forgot to set the current limiter on the power supply).
So I’d suggest measuring the resistance before soldering the switches, it is easy to cut between the via’s with a knife to undo the short when there are no components mounted yet.
Also: how are you all measuring the small currents? I’d like to measure the parasitic drain of mine.
I’m not following. What vias were shorted?
I ordered 9 pieces. Only one shorted there:
These were all shorted on the board I received. I am not sure if it was on 1 side or both, I just made sure it was nowhere after I was done with them.
hmm very strange. I have used at least 6 of those boards, and never had a short. Oshpark appears to be slipping with their QC
As a noob it’s so difficult to obtain information on where to buy which parts in which size … I’m in the process of modding s2+ but the info is so scattered :weary:
It’s scattered because there’s not just one answer.
Tell us what you want to do and we’ll tell you what parts to buy. (and don’t forget there are already a few links in the OP)
Thanks!
I want to convert the S2+ to a tripple with metal, illuminated taillight. Already ordered the Copper S2+ heatsink by Hoop. That’s where I stand now and I know I can buy the rest of the stuff from Mountain Electronics.
Now only to choose between drivers and LED’s :D. And the translucent O-ring, the fitting switch board, LED’s for that one, etc 
Got the hosts with metal switches etc. already.
Would you rather use resistors (easier to solder) or potentiometers (easier to adjust) for the tail light?
Didn’t consider that one. I guess potentiometers.
Alright, I’ve ordered parts for mine (doing 1 or more S2 / S6). Grabbed a batch of the Rev 5.3 top boards, these LEDs, and these resistors (overkill, but I didn’t feel like waiting on parts from China and I should be set for a lifetime!). I’ll get clear switch covers on my next order from Simon.
Since I’m doing all one color, I can just jump the “P” (parallel) pad, put a single resistor (around 3k-10k ohms) on the R1 pads, and leave the R2 pads alone, right? Sound like a reasonable plan?
PS - once those resistors come in, if anyone in the US needs a few, feel free to drop me a PM. I may be able to spare a couple of the 3400 resistors I have coming my way.
Now that helps a lot 
The resistors are dirt cheap but many. And probably not applicable in audio thingies (my other madness).
So I can use the metal switch I’ve got with this board? Cool. Now only to find the apllicable translucent O-ring
Cheers!
If you’re up for ordering from China, the FastTech link in the first post has 200 resistors for $2. Not sure how all that translates to ordering stuff in the Netherlands though.
You most certainly can use your metal switch! From the pictures I’ve seen, it looks very slick but is said to be more for looks than function with the metal switch (which blocks some of the light and reduces the viewing angle). There are several posts about the S2+ and it’s metal switch in this thread, here’s a good one from emarkd. As this mod seems to vary from light to light, that might serve as a decent guide, but your set up will vary a bit. Especially now that there are proper clear gaskets for the metal switch floating around. Who knows… new S2+’s might even come with the clear gasket, not sure.
I just ordered 5.3 versions and they are being made now.
Ordering from China is much, much cheaper then from the US. When ordering from the US, I always get superhigh shipping costs and I am draconically taxed by our government. Ordering from China, shipping cost is low (mostly nill) and I almost never get taxed. Basically, an US order costs about 150 - 250% of the product price compared when ordered in China. Shipping time is about the same.
Nah. When an US seller gives me good advice, I order there. Pity is, most of the extra money won’t go to the seller (who worked for the money and earns it) but to bloody shipping and taxes.
What I don’t do is ask for advice in the US and then order in China. The point is, less money should go to shipping and taxes and more to the guy who takes the time to advise me. Sorry, off-topic but realy irritating.