D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Ohhhh pretty lights with… pretty lights :smiley:

Can’t wait for my components to arrive!

^

Oh, those are two beautiful pics. I only have 3 so far. Green cap on green LEDs, Clear on Purple/Orange (Clemson colors) and Green on Blue (makes teal that my wife likes, or claims to like). Thanks for starting this whole thing. I really love my 3 lit tail caps.

Have you posted a picture of your purple and orange one?

I am wondering if this can be modified / hacked / retrofitted or manufactured for use on the tail switch of a K60, K70 and TN31… any ideas on how could this work?

Would love to have one for those lights…

Got any pictures of them Alex?

I'll take some and post eventually. Having camera issues. I find purple a disappointment. To me it looks grey with a slight blue tint. Takes too much current. The orange LED has a 100K resistor, purple 10K and the orange really out shines it.

That’s partially why I was interested. I tried purple once and couldn’t get it to work

I got purple working and i have to use very low resister like 5k pot from memory for two channels board with 6 leds

Will post the pic of purple led tonight if i have time

Shot taken by iphone.

I tried all colours :smiley: need to experiment something different now

Having a hard time getting a good white balance. Here is my purple/orange as I can best get it rendered. The cell is getting low, but the output is low all the time. Only one emitter of each color. I prefer my tail caps dim.

Nicolicous,

Do you recall where you purchased your purple emitters from?

Got mine from flea bay :smiley:

Flea bay

^

Thank you

Thanks for the link. I’m going to order some from there too. Hopefully I get different hues than what I have, I don’t like duplicates.

I am going to grab some of those as well, can’t really argue with the price.

Also grabbed some pots from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400925630541?var=670469147267

Lots of other interesting stuff in his store if you need anything oddball and he appears to give shipping discounts as well.

So, what’s the best way to approaching this for the first timer? I wish there was a video of someone putting one together for a light as common as the S2/S2+. I understand that the need for a bleeder resistor on the driver and the resistor values for the SMD LEDs will vary depending on what you’ve got, but a simple “here’s how I do it” would be really valuable in saving some of the headache for the less experienced.

I’m going to be attempting one for my S2+ (rubber switch boot) regardless of any video. It’s a triple Nichia with a MTN17DD FET+1 running A6 firmware.

If I understand it right, I need to decide if I’m going to use a nylon spacer or a TOP board for the switch. I’ll likely choose the top board. I already have LEDs coming, and resistors are soon to follow (getting the variety pack from FT). Depending on the board design I choose, I need to either stick with trying various resistors or using pots. This is where my knowledge tapers off… :slight_smile:

I’ll reread some of the info in this thread to see if there’s more that I might have missed. Maybe I’ll try the search function again with some other terms…

Please keep us posted. I too am about to embark on my first journey. I have most of the stuff and waiting on OSHPARK. …but as you said it sure does help all the little pointers for first timers. I’m the guy who didn’t even like lighted tailcaps. So much for that! LOL

I wished for the same thing. I’m waiting for my boards to show up from Oshpark. I doubt I’ll do a video, but I’ll take a lot of pictures and notes from putting them in my S2, S2+ (metal tailcap), and S6. Maybe C8, too. We’ll see how adventurous I get. I’ll share as soon as those are done.

Super!

Step1: Choose what version you want (and ask questions to help decide).

Step2: Solder all components to bottom of switch pcb (spring, bypass wire, pot/mini switch).

Step3: Solder all components to top of switch pcb (omten switch, pot/jumper pins).

Step4: Solder all components to bottom of Ring pcb (Pots/resistors).

Step5: Solder LEDs to top of ring.

Step6: Assemble/mock-up to test (preferably with actual driver being used in the light).

Step7: If it works, great! Finalize your assembly and pat yourself on the back. If your driver is acting funny, move to step8.

Step8: Read OP about bleeder resister. Add bleeder resistor to driver. If it works, great! if not, move to step9.

Step9: Tell us why steps 1-8 didn’t work for you.

Appreciate the cheat sheets.