I'll take some and post eventually. Having camera issues. I find purple a disappointment. To me it looks grey with a slight blue tint. Takes too much current. The orange LED has a 100K resistor, purple 10K and the orange really out shines it.
That’s partially why I was interested. I tried purple once and couldn’t get it to work
I got purple working and i have to use very low resister like 5k pot from memory for two channels board with 6 leds
Will post the pic of purple led tonight if i have time
Shot taken by iphone.
I tried all colours 
need to experiment something different now
Having a hard time getting a good white balance. Here is my purple/orange as I can best get it rendered. The cell is getting low, but the output is low all the time. Only one emitter of each color. I prefer my tail caps dim.
Nicolicous,
Do you recall where you purchased your purple emitters from?
^
Thank you
Thanks for the link. I’m going to order some from there too. Hopefully I get different hues than what I have, I don’t like duplicates.
I am going to grab some of those as well, can’t really argue with the price.
Also grabbed some pots from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400925630541?var=670469147267
Lots of other interesting stuff in his store if you need anything oddball and he appears to give shipping discounts as well.
So, what’s the best way to approaching this for the first timer? I wish there was a video of someone putting one together for a light as common as the S2/S2+. I understand that the need for a bleeder resistor on the driver and the resistor values for the SMD LEDs will vary depending on what you’ve got, but a simple “here’s how I do it” would be really valuable in saving some of the headache for the less experienced.
I’m going to be attempting one for my S2+ (rubber switch boot) regardless of any video. It’s a triple Nichia with a MTN17DD FET+1 running A6 firmware.
If I understand it right, I need to decide if I’m going to use a nylon spacer or a TOP board for the switch. I’ll likely choose the top board. I already have LEDs coming, and resistors are soon to follow (getting the variety pack from FT). Depending on the board design I choose, I need to either stick with trying various resistors or using pots. This is where my knowledge tapers off… 
I’ll reread some of the info in this thread to see if there’s more that I might have missed. Maybe I’ll try the search function again with some other terms…
Please keep us posted. I too am about to embark on my first journey. I have most of the stuff and waiting on OSHPARK. …but as you said it sure does help all the little pointers for first timers. I’m the guy who didn’t even like lighted tailcaps. So much for that! LOL
I wished for the same thing. I’m waiting for my boards to show up from Oshpark. I doubt I’ll do a video, but I’ll take a lot of pictures and notes from putting them in my S2, S2+ (metal tailcap), and S6. Maybe C8, too. We’ll see how adventurous I get. I’ll share as soon as those are done.
Super!
Step1: Choose what version you want (and ask questions to help decide).
Step2: Solder all components to bottom of switch pcb (spring, bypass wire, pot/mini switch).
Step3: Solder all components to top of switch pcb (omten switch, pot/jumper pins).
Step4: Solder all components to bottom of Ring pcb (Pots/resistors).
Step5: Solder LEDs to top of ring.
Step6: Assemble/mock-up to test (preferably with actual driver being used in the light).
Step7: If it works, great! Finalize your assembly and pat yourself on the back. If your driver is acting funny, move to step8.
Step8: Read OP about bleeder resister. Add bleeder resistor to driver. If it works, great! if not, move to step9.
Step9: Tell us why steps 1-8 didn’t work for you.
Appreciate the cheat sheets.
Honestly - that’s very helpful. I appreciate you “dumbing it down” for us ambitious folks lacking the practical knowledge. So, what I’m trying to say is, THANKS!
I finally got around to actually putting one of these together today, well 2 actually. Overall it went together easy enough, I like the header pin setup.
The pot is hard to dial in, maybe it is just the ones I ordered. I tried both 50k and 100k but I find that the LED’s won’t light up with anything over ~5k at the most. Why such high pot values?
Besides that the tailcap works great.
The driver on the other hand seems to loose reverse modes with the tailcap installed. I guess because power is flowing through it at all times?
I am using a TA driver with a 560ohm bleeder but also tried it with a another light that didn’t have a bleeder and while the tailcap lit up it lost all modes.
So is this a sign of a larger bleeder resistor needed?
How bright have you set you LEDs? If You can’t see them at all in a bright room, I’d make sure you don’t have any trickle shorts anywhere. It’s odd that you have to set your pots so low, I have to totally max out a 50k to get anything usable.
If you find out where all the extra power is going, that should resolve your driver issue. But otherwise, yes you’re describing symptoms of not enough bleed.
They are about as bright as a stock astrolux S2 tailcap I would say, maybe a bit less.
I built 2 of them, I have not tried the second in a light yet but it needed about the same pot settings. It uses different LED’s and it is significantly brighter though. Both of them have a very narrow window where they will light up at all, be it in the flashlight or on the power supply.
I could not detect any shorts with the multimeter besides the pot bleed.
I guess I will swap to the 2nd cap and see if it does the same thing.
If they draw more power than the banggood tailcaps, you will need more bleed. Banggood had to use a 420ohm on their drivers.
Most of us like them much dimmer though, which pulls less power and you can get away with less bleed/less vampire draw. I use a 1kohm resistor these days.