Worklight comparison: 400W LED vs 500Wx2 Halogen

The halogen certainly has a more intense hotshot. at least one of the lights were slightly pointing upwards, where the led was pointing up by roughly 10 degrees from horizontal. This is the design I’ll go for if I add emitters.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272385350497

I think texaspyro has some threads about using those reflectors in his projects.

Wow that pricing lol! Can you tell what brand the current LEDs are in the light? Any model numbers?

I wonder if you could fit 4 of these in? You would have to lower the voltage but the amperage is correct.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10013316/2250000-cree-cxa2530-60w-4000k-6000lm-cob-led-array

I’ll have to open it up again,but I’m sure it’s not cree. I don’t think those cxa emitter make sense for this light, but I may use them in an insane flashlight project. There’s plenty of room. When I get the FLIR, I’ll add a picture with both lights so you can see how huge it is.

You could always try one of these.

Not sure that would fit unless I used that to drive everything, but then there’s no room for additional drivers if this also fails to meet its rating. There are two compartments instead of one.

I’d like to see if the drivers in my light can be modded.

Cree CXA2530 60W 4000K 6000LM COB LED Array Emitter

Real Cree stuff, specs you can rely on. :STEVE:

Possible AC drivers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Constant-Current-Driver-10-18pcs-3W-High-Power-LED-AC85-265V-40w-600mA-/231676178451

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Constant-Current-Driver-10-18pcs-3W-High-Power-LED-AC85-265V-40w-600mA-/221873496465

Two per COB emitter should do nice without being overbearing (≈1,2A). Of course, there may be cheaper options.

Cheers ^:)

Brown Santa dropped off a FLIR One today. Here’s the video of a moment after startup to about 4 minutes. I like that it hardly gets warm. I recorded 43°C/109°F behind the center emitters, 35°C/95°F at the bezel. My wild guess at the room temperature is 18°C/65°F.

I thought perhaps the sensor was saturated, so I passed my hand through the video a couple of times to compare against body temperature. I suspect the shelf under the emitters is thin, which is why they are so easy to see. If I mod this to a 8x 100W light, I’ll have a thick plate of aluminum between the emitters and the shelf, and I can’t wait to see what that thermal image looks like.

Pro tip: Some platforms allow Youtube videos to be sped up 2x.

I’m gonna follow the progress on this. We have this problem a lot at work. All but handheld work lights are still halogen power suckers with too much heat in some of the spaces we have to work in. And I already have guys asking about mods for their handheld led’s. Once they get me one new still in the box I will begin looking into it.

Great thread.

Let's see:

You said around 150W at the input. If, let's say, 5/6 of that power is dissipated in that heatsink through the emitters, peak heatsink °C/W = 25/125 = 0,2°/W.

800W plus 0,2°/W means 160° above ambient. Great news! It'll look close to an electric heater, before the emitters blow up. :-)

Cheers ^:)

That was just behind the emitter. Heat quickly dropped off away from the emitter. Since emitters would be spaced out, it wouldn’t be that bad. Upping the current is what would really pile on the heat since LED’s get less efficient as current goes up.

Current to each emitter would stay the same though. I’m talking about 800W worth of over rated chinese drivers, so it’d only double what’s already in the light, so really 300W. There’s room to cram 8 drivers in, but 16 would be pushing it, and that would still only get 600 watts. With 300W, it won’t get that much hotter, and might even run cooler if my big spacer distributes heat to the fins much more evenly. Drivers to get an honest 800W, much less Cree COB’s, are way beyond my budget for this light. They would be awesome to use, but it’s not happening right now unless someone else is paying for it. :wink:

First mod will be doubling the drivers to each emitter for 66W each, then later I’ll double the emitters and come back down to 33W each. The latter mod should run cooler and produce more light than the first.

I’m having a hard time finding a good deal on the same driver that’s in this light though, so I’m thinking about going a different route. I have my eye on a led driver that outputs 200 watts at 171-286 volts. The cob leds are supposed to get 30-36 volts. What if I ran 2-4 of these drivers in parallel to 8 of these leds in series? Electrically I don’t see an issue with it. If I’m not missing anything, I’ll start ordering parts. It’d be insane to actually have this thing put out 80 thousand lumens. I’d seriously have to get a dimmer put on that.

Namely, what driver? Specs? Chinese watts or real watts?

If those are 100W cheap COBs, we're technically speaking about 10S10P emitters, with relatively high Vf if driven hard.

I've been using this driver operating reliably a 30S4P 5730 array for nearly 8 months now: AC 85-265V High Power Supply Driver 25-36x1W for LED Light Lamp 25W 28W 30W 36W @babaoshop

5-piece pack: 5pcs AC 85-265V Power Supply Driver 25-36x1W for LED Light Lamp 25W 28W 30W 36W @babaoshop

Startup Vf measured at ≈105V for that 30S4P setup.

These drivers may be able to drive 4S COBs (may reach around 150V, as said by some guy at FastTech), yet that would be “pushing it”, out of spec.

Ten of 'em in parallel would drive 3S of those COBs at maximum driving current (300W real watts). That heatsink would start getting hot :STEVE: . Should be able to operate in parallel without issues, yet if not the solution is cheeap and easy: an 1N4007 in series at each driver's output.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autec-Power-Systems-LSWCD200S070ST-200W-LED-Driver-171-286V-0-7A-/391590779984

American company out of California. Probably manufactured in China.

Data sheet here.
http://www.autec.com/pdf/LSWCD200.pdf

It even shows how to wire up a dimmer, which sounds like a damn good idea with the lumens and heat this thing will generate. The size may be too big to fit 4 in my light.

Edit: I ordered some. I should try to find a way to put a handle and battery pack on this to make the brightest flashlight. It’ll probably weigh a hundred pounds.

My testing with cheap 100W AC drivers for these ultra-cheap “100W” COB emitters has been poor. It’s been about a year since I got to play with them, but it should be fairly easy to get them up to 75-80W/emitter, which should boost your output significantly. I had purchased a few of the cheap 100W COBs and a few drivers that had the correct specifications and none of them would run even close to the rated wattage, and the actual power consumption at the wall varied significantly between the different emitter packages I was using.

Of course, 80W*4 would be dumping a huge amount of heat into that passive “heatsink” surface. I know that a single emitter running at full power would fully saturate the Intel CPU heatsink I was using for a testing platform and have it baking hot in moments… I would expect (gut feeling only) that running anywhere close to full spec with that light package would overheat in a very short while, after all, it’s the power of a small desktop space heater in an enclosed space, without the benefit of air moving through it…

Why is the cool-white version $170 vs the $98 of the warm white? :frowning:

That 0,7A Autec driver looks good, leaftye.

Also, since you'll be running drivers in parallel, you can arrange on/off switches at the drivers' inputs for sort of a coarse grained variable driving current system, in 0,7A steps (0,7/1,4/2,1/2,8A).

Going 8S COBs? Well, good luck with that, such an array may want close or above 300V when driven hard. Good luck with cooling that furnace, too. LoL. :-))

Cheers ^:)

8S seems nuts. Hopefully only the COBs fry if I release the smoke.

Please post more or reply to me on these developments. I’ve been in big need of well made, affordable work or task lights.

The last post made in this was from 2016. Good luck

I’ve made a cheap one up using an 18V power tool battery with an adapter off AliExpress that plugs onto the battery and gives you + and - wires. They’re available to suit most power tool brands. I’ve fixed a single car LED flood/ driving light onto that adaptor with the power tool battery forming the stand. It works well and was cheap.

This project stalled on optics. Even if I found enthusiasm to finish this, I still have a bunch of soda can and bike lights to mod first.