Review: Klarus Mi7 (1xAA/14500)

very helpful pictures!

thanks for sharing

Review/original post updated with results of low voltage protection test.

Got my Klarus Mi7 yesterday.

My initial impressions:

  • Slightly longer and thinner than the Manker E11
  • Excellent “hand feel”. The pineapple knurling provides for great grip and the metal switch button feels higher quality than the typical rubber. It feels better in the hand than Manker E11.
  • Quite bright on 14500.
  • Came with a copper star (no idea if it is DTC. My guess is probably not). I reflowed the cool-white XPL HI off and replaced it with a 4000K 5A2 tint XPL HI.
  • Reflector is shallower than the Manker E11. This suggests the Mi7 should have a wider spillbeam since less of the spill is shadowed by the top edge of the reflector.
  • UI is decent, but not perfect. On the plus side it has direct access to moonlight and max. On the minus side, turning it off requires 2 clicks with an interval between them. Also the metal switch button looks like it would be easy to accidentally activate in the pocket… much more so than the button on the E11.

I can’t compare the output or beam pattern directly between my Manker E11 and the Klarus Mi7 since I already replaced the guts on my Manker.

Overall, I quite like this light. Not sure about the bright blue on mine however. I might order a black one.

Hi,

I´d like to reflow a 5000K XP-L Hi too on my cold white MI7, is it easy to open the head and get the LED out or is it glued?
Thanks,
K.

+1

I too would like to know more info… TIA

You could take a look at the images in THIS thread of the German TLF Forum where a user has opened the head. It´s heavily glued!
K.

My tear-down pics for BLF





5

Is it an electronic switch? What about parasitic drain?

^ great tear down photos. (I’d love one of these modded with a 3000k emitter)

Love your technique! Did you manage to put it back together?

so much glue in the head >.<

Of course !
I removed all that dirty glue and swapped the emitter for a 219C.

X3 and Fireflight2 what did you use to get the remaining glue off of the threads?

A blade, and some patience IIRC

X3
I am thinking to buy an Mi7 and swap the led for a nichia 219c, because i dont like 6000-6500K
Opening the thing is tough, but i should be able to do that.
Since i have no experience in reflowing, is it possible to exchange the pcb with LED already mounted? (for a pcb star with LED from KD/MTN)
What size and diameter does it use?

Thanks in advance!

Ok, sorry guys to bump this thread again, but i have changed my mind and ordered a pineapple with coupon from M4DM4X (thanx!)
I already have a 16mm copper dtp with 219c 4000k, which i initially planned to build in an S2+ which was on flash sale, but already 6 weeks waiting and GB tells me to wait another two weeks…
So i was looking for a nice alternative light to build.

The only thing is, the more i am searching, the more addicted i seem to become… Sigh…
Second thing is the WAF :wink:
She already thinks i buy to much from China.

As this thread has been bumped a few times recently, I thought I’d add an afterthought to my review in the OP.

  • Good on Klarus for adding clips on the new colours, as per the early feedback.
  • Good on Klarus for adding the new colours.
  • I love the output (and throw) to size ratio of this light - and often take this light there there is little room left in my camera bag.
  • The use of AA and 14500 is flexible - I usually use the 14500, but on family holidays or when flying, I’ll take the AAs.

I like how nobody has mentioned that it goes to a uselessly low lumen output when nimh aa’s hit 1.2v in it. This light NEEDS the higher voltage of lithium, even on low, for a decent runtime. It’s almost like it was a paid review with no testing, I certainly wouldn’t have bought it if I knew.

Bashing in first post? Hmmm…

I love the output, and I only use 14500’s so it is a great combination for me.

The switch takes some getting used to…but there is lockout, so it is all good

I really liked the Mi7 I had just couldn’t get past the side switch. If they made it with a rear clicky, I wouldn’t have sold it. :frowning: