"Budget" Multimeter Suggestions Please

just pick new multimeter yesterday, Constant DM50, australian company made.
about $15. the grade above Heles and Uni, below Sanwa.

I am using a Mastech MS8229. Its about 40USD in Aliexpress. Might be able to get it cheaper some times too.

I bought it because it can be modded to a data logging type by adding a couple of optocouplers, resistors and a FTDI usb to serial convertor. I have not modded it yet.

As for the meter itself, So far it has been reliable.

If you’re forgetful like me, make sure to get one with auto-off function. I used to have a more expensive meter without auto-off and it would eat my 9V batteries in matter of days. In the two years I’ve had it I spent more than $20 in batteries alone. Now I’m using a $14 INNOVA with auto-range and auto-off, has a large screen and reads fine up to 9A in triple setups using 20AWG leads. The voltmeter is very precise and matches my MC3000, it also uses AA batteries.

What I like the most is I don’t have to switch ranges when reading between Ni-Mh and Li-ion.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

4.5 stars out of 5, only £7.99 and there’s a screw fix in Chichester.

Autoranging on any meter is an absolute must. TrueRMS too IMHO.

“Budget” did you said?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Yellow-DT-830B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-750-1000V-Amp-Volt-Ohm-Tester-Meter-Digital/32741993514.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DT-830B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-750-1000V-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohm-Tester-Meter-Digital/32744711744.html

Cheeeap! Use and throw away! LoL!

Cheers ^:)

They were giving those away for free at Harbor Freight with the purchase of anything in the store. I had to buy somthing anyway so I got it. It’s the exact same meter in red. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting much. That said, it’s low quality didn’t surprise me. I’d personally avoid this meter especially if you want to test current. I think it would catch on fire with anything above a couple of amps.

Edit: there is one difference I just noticed. Mine has a seperate power switch just below the rotary mode selector instead of being on the mode selector.

Here’s what I did. I got 2 cheapies, a $5 red Harbor freight model, and a $25+$6 battery radio shack model.

Since they probably came from different factories, if they both read the same, they are probably right. Seems like a low chance they’d be off the same amount. Plus, if I only had an expensive DMM, it could still be off, and I’d have nothing to check it against.

I really like the harbor freight one, plus it has A. I wouldn’t be surprised if quality varied, though, on different batches. But so far, so good.

I fried one, possibly testing A on an 18650, with 12ga multistrand leads, but that was stupid. A short.

Harbor Freight vs Fluke 189 reading an 18650. The Fluke 189 was calibrated 2 years ago

Mmm, remembers me the other day while testing battery input on a defective cheap powerbank PCB I had received. I selected the “20V” scale and set the leads over the measuring points… darn! Sparks?!

Last time I used my DMM I made current flow measurements, so the red lead still was at the shunt's input… LoL!

Nothing got fried. :-)

Cheers ^:)

That was daft of me to post a question just before I go away for a few days but back now …. I’ll have a read through all the suggestions over the weekend but thanks for everyone’s input!!!

My radio shack was less than 1/100 V different than the harbor freight, I believe. Seems unlikely they’d both be off by the same amount.

Which of the above meters is correct? I know everyone is going to say the Fluke, since it’s more expensive, but 2 years is a while.

I bought this one about a month ago and so far it's as accurate as my Fluke. Killer price for all it can do. "Lowes":https://m.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Digital-Multimeter/50125841 I have purchased 2 other Southwire meters since I posted this. Including their top of the line Technicians model. I found 10 of them on eBay all totally legit. I even checked with Southwire to be sure . Retail on them were $189.00 U.S. I paid $52.00 for their 2016 top of the line. All the Flukes read or register faster but, accuracy was the same or too close to matter. As to cheaper meters. Well fpr about 5 bucks you can get a battery tester that will give you the correct voltage when checking a battery. Use the same meter to test current or continunit. A Fluke 117 Electricians DMM can be purchased for $147.00 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O3LUEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506037807&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fluke%2B117&dpPl=1&dpID=41gV%2By7P-2L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

It will last a very long time and backed up here in the U.S. (or whatever country your in. If they sell Fluke then there is a distributor to handle warranty issues.

Just my humble opinion.... oh yeah... and very costly experience.

Another +1 for this! Haven’t purchased one yet but heard great things! Watch these reviews if you’re unsure :wink: There’s 4 parts to that review and it explores in great detail every aspect of the multimeter.

Multimeter Review / buyers guide: Part 1 - UNI-T UT61E

The fluke is correct. I compared it to my Fluke 289 which was calibrated by Fluke when I sent it in to have the corroded super cap replaced under warrantee 6 months ago.

Can confirm, it's a great budget multimeter.

Bought one from amazon for $50, has almost any feature you could want other than a backlight and a temp probe.

I bought an Innova Equus 3320 auto ranging digital multimeter over 4 years ago for about $19 and it’s been both accurate and reliable. It gets good reviews and it’s ranked 3rd on a top 5 multimeter list after 2 Fluke models. I use it at least 1-2 times a week for battery voltage testing, e cigarette coil resistance testing etc. Its good for house and auto and has a lot of functions. Its got thick rubber bumpers on all 4 corners to protect it from drops. Its got an elastic armband on its back so you can mount it on your arm while you do readings on your car.

It has an auto-off function that shuts its screen off after a little while if you forget to twist the dial to the off position. Because of that, and because It runs very energy efficiently, it’s still running on the original AA batteries from when I bought it 4 years ago!
It reminds me of my Nitecore Intellicharger I4 purchase in that both cost under $20 and both have exceeded my expectations.

Are you sure it dosen”t have a backlight as according to this product description it does
“This Meter can measure AC/DC Voltage and Current, Resistance, Diode, Continuity Buzzer, Capacitance, Frequency, Temperature(℃or ℉). In addition to the conventional measuring functions, there is a RS232C or USB standard serial port, data hold, relative mode, peak measurement, low battery display, display back light and sleep mode.”
I am looking to buy a UNI-T UT61E but if it does not have a backlight I might give this model a miss.

guys over at EEV blog forums have a spreadsheet for multimeters, quite a range with various price points:

MILSPEC, thank you Very Much for a Great resource.

Best Regards,

George