Testing a custom made 16mm Nichia 119 copper core board (non-DTP), edit:sold out

You say that the generic board results in a higher Vf but when you look at the graph the results show the other way around?

yes, you’re right, and in fact, as djozz points out a few posts up:

Djozz, I’ll take 5 boards. Check your PM for address and I’ll await your paypal info. Thanks!

Pretty sure it's just slip of the brain/keyboard. djozz is certainly aware that heat reduces Vf in diodes.

Yes, sorry, I meant ‘lower voltage’ I corrected the OP.
Btw, I read the PM’s, will answer later tonight.

Was wondering about that :)…

Hey Djozz I’d like 4 of these boards please. Thank you!

these should work with that new hex die nichia?
if so these will be a hot commodity.

Say what? Got a link?

here you go. But with 319A, there’s no need for a special board, normal dtp sinkpad or noctigon with for xp footprint.

They do work and I tested that they work well (though not as good as the VirEnce board), but it requires scraping off some solder mask to widen the solder pads.

I take 2 boards to germany

djozz,

They seem like the work just fine.

But for the slow among us (me included) can you add a list of the LEDs that fit this board to your original post?

and maybe compare to the (what is it?) xp? series noctagon copper bards that we would otherwise need to use.

A DTP board will always heatsink better than the board from the OP, but only work with leds that have a (neutral) central solder pad.

The OP board fits all leds that have just two solder pads for cathod and anode without central solder pad. And there is not so many leds that fit it that are interesting in flashlights, it is an obscure board!: almost all midpower leds have the two pads but are too dim for flashlights, a series of Nichia UV leds fits this board, Luxeon Z fits it, and with some scraping the Nichia 144A series fits it.

Maybe it’s not (only) the dielectric layer that is better than usual, but it may well be (judging by the picture) that the copper layer on top is thicker than usual.

I was thinking XQ-E, but they’re probably too small for that.

…and the gap between the solder pads is smaller so there is more copper directly under the center of the led. (I did not ask specifically for an extra thick copper layer, and have to look up what thickness I actually got)

djozz, it may not be that you got an extra thick copper layer, but that they made that other one cheap, with an extra thin copper layer. :wink:

Edit: What is the weight of each board?

dunno, I can weigh one when I’m home, why do you ask?

Maybe normal is extra thin… :confounded:

I mean, the djozz board versus the generic board. I know the copper core weighs more than the aluminum one. I’m wondering how much difference there is. Just curious.