Definitely. I have one built as you describe. I’d have to look back through a a bunch of old messages but it’s hitting somewhere between 320 and 350 Kcd with a crazy pencil thin beam. Very lightsaber-like. 
Just out of curiosity, was the beam still usable or does it get too narrow? I’ve never seem beam shots of the little xpg2.
A few corrections… The L6 thrower I did was a buck driver to an de-domed XP-G2 at 5.5A. The L2 thrower is an XHP-35 at 3.13A with the LD-2 driver. Different creations.
A short tube L2 with XP-G2 will not pull the amperage that it takes to really make it hit hard. This is why we are using buck drivers and two cells to push 5.5A. It’ll still be nice, just not maximum.
The XHP-35 does around 2200 lumens at some 1.87A or thereabouts. Max current is supposedly 2A. At some 2.8A it makes 2600 or so lumens. And when pushed right up against the wall at 3A or a bit more, I’ve seen 2986 lumens. I’ll say again that every time I use this one at 3.13A I expect it to go poof.
That’s a matter of opinion really. In my experience it’s quite poor for anything up close (50 feet or less). It’s not that you can’t use it, it’s just not very practical. When I took it up to my mom’s place in the dark woodlands of northern Michigan is where I REALLY fell in love with it. From my mom’s deck down to the bottom of the valley is around 800 feet or so. Deer come out to the edge of the woods at night to feed on some of the greenery growing there. Lighting them up from her deck at 800 feet and more is no problem though I had to look through binoculars to tell if they were deer or coyotes. They’re so small at that distance that they’re just tiny moving brownish shapes with glowing eyes. :student:
Okay, so if I were to use an L2 host (cheaper than an L6 + smo reflector) and put a dedomed xpg2 in it, a single battery would have too much voltage drop at 5.5 amps and reduce output?
I know a 26650 can put out good amps, so it must be the voltage drop that’s reducing power, right?
So 2 big 26650 and a buck driver must keep the voltage higher and give you that maximum punch.
Have you seen any pictures or videos of a light with a similar hot spot size? I was surprised by how usable the Acebeam K70 beam appeared. It got me thinking a max thrower is not so bad.
I don’t know about video but there are some beam shots of it in the L2 thread.
I can try to find them later unless Dale has them handy… He built it. :laughing: :+1:
It’s the one with the copper ring spacer between the head and bezel. Pictured right here in the OP. 
With a hard pushed de-domed XP-G2 the hot spot is really tight and the spill is really dim. Most of the ~1100 lumens is going downrange. As such, it’s not great for walking because the hot spot is about 8” around in front of you and the spill is really insufficient to illuminate the surroundings. That’s where the “pencil beam” effect causes a gap in real world usage. It’s doable, but not preferable.
This is an outstanding thread with good information; my appreciation to everyone.
I’ve got plenty of walking lights, I just wanted to make sure that the hotspot at 300 feet wasnt so small that you can’t tell a tree from a bush. When it’s too laser like, well, it’s like a laser. You can’t tell what it’s illuminating.
I took up to much space here. I’ll do some more reading in the forums. Thanks
I still remember a great C8 Mitko made using xp-g2 s2 2b , about a year ago , using fet driver and single cell, running @ 5.5amps for ~175kcd .
Higher binned xp-g2 s4 2b (old production) needs less current (4.3-4.5) to achieve a better result in the same host (around 192kcd). I have some of the old s4 leds running @ 4.3amps (single cell) without an issue .
I’m using C8 because i know the numbers for sure.
My most useful thrower currently is a L2 with XP-L V6 1A dedomed and FET+1 driver. It pulls almost 6 amperes of a single fresh Liitokala 5200 for 280 kCd and 1400 lumens. The light is very handy with its short tube, the spot has a reasonable size and runtime is suffizient.
The only thing I miss is a reverse clicky, haven’t found any yet in the size needed.
Huh? I’m using a little omten 1288 in mine, it works great. I don’t remember having to do anything special to make it fit.
I use the little Omten in virtually everything. even if you have to Make it work, it’s worth it. JB Weld Water Weld. About 4 minutes. You can make spacers, adapters, or just plain glue it in.
Omten 1288 (left) and switch in my L2 (right):
I thought about gluing something on top of the switch but feared it would break.
Not gluing something, just glue. Hot glue to be exact. Works great.
With a hot melt-gun? I’ll give it a try …
Scuff up the top of the switch some, hold the glue/iron on it for a second, pull the iron away leaving a little ball of glue, wait for it to cool a couple seconds, then just before it gets hard shape it into a post with a flat top.
Only , V6 1A at 6 amps is arround 1900 lumens, there isnt practicaly ANy light loss caused by dedoming, when i first tested it i had to redo the test 3 times to believe it, cant explain it yet its true…i think other here tested it with same results
Not to mention that L2/W2 1A gives 1870 lumens OFT and nearly 2k lumens ” in the box” at 6 amps, there are some 6.5 amps yet they are rare
Those new W2/3 binned ones are kinda close to the new XPL2, they have lower Vf, made a C8 recently with W2 1A and even at 3.3 amp battery it gives 2.8 amps and 110k cds
ABout XHP35…well tested a dedomed E2 1A in L2 at 3 amp single mode buck driver yet the results aint that good, like 2700 lumens, nearly the same cds as V6/W2 yet tremendous ammount of heat coming from the body
I dont think this setup will be long lasting, especialy with warmer HI tints
Lumens might be more, I do my lumen measurements in an improvized “guest bathroom integrating sphere”. Readings seem a bit low generally, and probably even lower with throwers.