Skilhunt H03 Review

Good news! Thanks a lot mate! And enjoy your meal (if you’re still eating)!

I will add this there is only a red LED on the switch. So i was right that time lol
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I just got my H03 in the mail three days ago. So far I really like it. The tint is really good, and so is the flood/TIR beam pattern.

That said, there are two things I’ve noticed that could be improved:

  • Magnet could be stronger - the light sticks really well if you’re sticking it to a really thick piece of metal, but not so well to even medium-thin metal. A body panel on my car is barely enough to hold the light, and a tiny touch will make it fall.
  • I would like a lower profile or recessed switch. I EDC’d the light in my pocket the second day I had it, and it turned itself on (I only noticed when my thigh started to get hot).

Thanks for the review. PMing you for the coupon,

Has anyone been adventurous to take the light apart yet? I just got the light and I like it but I wouldn’t mind tweaking it in the future.

Yea but that happens with all magnets on flashlights its more so the metals fault? It happens in my shed also i think the weight of the light is to much for the metal surface. Had the same issue with the Olight S1R and the Rofis TR20.

Thanks folks!

I just added a video if your interested. I think i need to trim my beard!

  • Mine sticks very well to side of refrigerator or the door of my F150 truck. Your car may have some non ferrous alloy mixed in the steel. The new Ford F150’s are aluminum bodies, so no magnet will stick to them.
  • There are two ways to lock out the light. One is, when light is off, hold the button down for 1.5 seconds. The light will turn on for a second then shut off. It is now locked out, but the location beacon is on. (red light on button flashes). Click again to shut off location beacon. (this info is in manual). Second way to lock out is loosen the tail cap a quarter turn or less.

hope that helps

^ Huh? Magnets don’t stick to aluminium…

Not on this planet… lol

So the new F150 use alloy panels or Chassis? Is that the Eco boost?

I checked. The new F150 has got many aluminium panels, including the doors. I think Robert made a little booboo hihi.

Mine is a 2013 all steel 5.0 liter V8. Aluminum body started in 2015 I think. Chassis is still steel.

Petrol? My mate has a Falcon Tickford 302 Windsor.
Id love a raptor if i lived in America the car is to big for here. Nice truck :smiley: The F150 are the most sold cars in the USA. I was looking at the new Nissan the ones with the Cummins engines they look cool.

Yes, the 5 liter V8 is gasoline. 4 x 4, 380hp 385 ft lbs torque. The Raptors are 485 hp, but $50,000us. You can buy the Ford Supercharger kit for the 5 liter for $4000 and get over 600hp. Mine is stock and has more than enough power for me. The old 302 Windor engines were great. So were the 351’s. All of Fords engines are overhead cam engines now. They completely did away with the old push-rod type engines. Yeah, the F150 is the most sold vehicle of all time in the US. Still is today.

No, it really is due to the thickness of the steel and/or the strength of the magnet. Normal amounts of alloying elements added to steel will not change the magnetic properties much. The magnetic flux and the thickness of the steel are much more significant factors. I’m somewhat of a flashlight noob, but I’m well versed in physics and engineering.

I don’t like having to “unlock” a light for normal use each and every time I take it out of my pocket. Lock out is good for when I want to store a light, or when I want to throw it in a bag where it will likely be bumped around. IMO a recessed button does not negatively effect the usability of the light at all (well, maybe if you are wearing thick gloves?) but it does create the possibility for the light to be activated accidentally.

I managed to take the light apart its is glued, but with some heat and not much force it gets loose
Unfortinually I slipped off the head and my F version is now missing the external TIR lens as it broke the plastic joint
Probably its better to bend the side with the switch with some spacer and opposite side to hold the head, not like I did the side with the lens and TIR optic mounted
Or remove the external TIR optic whith its base

For my nitecore P12 I used way more force and heat but it resisted to get opened

Not much to see on the circuit board a lot small resistors and the ICs are fixed with some non transparent glue

I did a spring bypass, if you want pictures I will make some

Led swap possible?

Pictures would be appreciated.

LED swap is no problem, just 4 screws and you can extract the lens, reflector and MCPCB.

If you want more throw with XPL HI maybe, but the XML U4 is as bright as an XPL HD V6

Opening the tube to get to the driver is harder.