D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Even if the switch pcb is 20mm in the F13, is the switch itself big? The BIG SWITCH version has a larger center hole to fit a larger switch under it. You are correct, it is only set up for resistors, though rigging up a pot on it wouldn’t be too hard.

Or you could use a smaller switch and therefore a different ring pcb. most of them will work fine with a 16mm silicone boot.

Ok, thanks for the reply. I knew if I just jumped in this it would start to slowly make sense. You are correct…I compared the F13 cap setup and except for the switch pcb, everything else is the same, so I should be able to use a 16mm ring pcb.

So, I should be able to pair the stock switch pcb with the Rev5.1 or 5.2 ring pcb. And, for all other normal 16mm lights, I can just purchase a 5.1 or 5.2 ring pcb, or 5.3 with switch and ring pcb’s with more feature. Does that all sound right?

Other than that, I’ll put in some orders for clear boots, pack of resistors/pots, and bag ’o LEDs.

The 5.1,2,3 mainly work with the small omten 1288 switch. If it’s a bigger switch you may want to order the BIG SWITCH boards or order some of the small Omtens. The 5.3 top rings can also be used with a stock switch pcb (without the 5.3 bottom boards) by just using wires instead of the pins (same as the 5.1 and 5.2 can). If you go the smaller route just pick which of those three fits your need best as far as pots vs resistors, etc.

Last night I swapped switchboard (with LED & resistors soldered) from Manker E14 to BLF Special Edition X6 and it works without bleeder. Amazing.

Have a great weeekend, guys!

I haven’t built one of these tailcaps in months, but I got inspired today. I put a white tailcap in my polished/curly maple BLF A6.

As you can see, I like mine pretty dim. Its almost blue, definitely some cool white emitters, but I like it. It suits the light I think.

Looks very nice on that light

Thanks, I think so too. It is truly a blf light — BLF A6 + rufusbduck wooden tube + pd68 lighted tailcap. One of my favorites.

i reckon white colour is the best and you can use them as moonlight :smiley:

Damn, never mad so many short circuit in my life until I started experimenting with this lights for switches.
I installed one in new C8 (clear one, with new driver), used 3 channel board and 3 x 220 ohms resistors, no modification on the driver. I must have done something wrong because it behaves unpredictably, sometimes works OK, light up nicely, when I turn on the flashlight tailcap lights turn off, when switch is in off position tailcap lights are ON… but sometimes just doesn’t work no light from tailcap and no light from flashlight main LED! this is harder than it looks :slight_smile:

If the main light no longer works then it’s probably not the lighted “daughter” board to blame. Is the switch getting good ground to the tailcap body through the retaining ring?

One other thing to try:. When I’ve got one being ornery I wrap the whole outer edge in kapton tape, just don’t let it wrap under the bottom and insulate the ground contact.

If y’all weren’t aware, Texas Ace has a few tailcaps for sale as add-ons when you buy one of his drivers. He is doing them all pre-calibrated to work with the driver, all you would have to do is fit them in your light and adjust the pot with a screwdriver to your desired brightness.

Thanks for the plug!

I am also putting together a spreadsheet with different resistance / current measurements from various color LED’s. I will post it once I get the last few colors tested (got to wait for more PCB’s to show up).

I will be installing some fixed resisters in addition to the pot in order to limit current to what the driver will be happy with on the ones I build. Not 100% fool proof but should vastly reduce possible issues.

Nicely modified emarkd. It looks real good, :+1:

I will answer here to encourage asking questions here. I just happened to see your thread, but if you post here I get an email notification (as do others who can help when I am busy).

The S41 uses a different driver that was not made for the illuminated tailcap. You will probably notice that the modes on your light don’t work correctly when you turn it off either. You need to add a bleeder resistor to your driver. This information is in the first post

There are also pictures there to illustrate.

Thanks alot for the quick reply pilotdog :smiley:

I don’t expect you to read this whole thread, but I’d say please read the OP, and maybe the most recent two pages of comments. Even if you don’t, please ask any questions you have. You’ll normally get an answer more quickly here.

Random clicking with freshly made red lightswitch

wait, what, why the bleeder resistor is 500-800ohm, it should be some K ohm, so that the led in tail cap don’t need another resistor( i disassemble 1 tail cap, and it has another resisor to limit the current)

This is not my design and I don’t claim to fully understand it all, but I don’t think that’s how it works. You really need the two different levels of resistance — a low resistance path so that the OTC can bleed off quickly preserving the timing of the mcu, plus a higher resistance path to dim the tailcap lights sufficiently.

This is my design but still don’t claim to understand it!

Mrheosuper if you’ve got an idea, try it! If it works and makes this better let us all know.