Update Oct 3: PD68 TripleDown/TripleStack - Tri-Channel Driver

Ok. I have the triple stack built and running bistro tripledown. It’s working with a 680 Ω bleeder and a 12k resistor in front of 6 green 0604 LEDs in the Tailcap. It was some work, but I’m excited now! The thing that work for me in the end was to use 22awg solid core hookup wire for connecting the vias. I solder the bottom via first then I clipped the wire at about 2cm then moved on to the next one and cut that one at 2.5cm. I let the wire length grow like that till all 5 were soldered. Then I feed the longest wire into the top board and then the others one at a time while sliding down the pcb. The wire was malleable enough to allow a perfect allignment. I would want to mess with the triple stack when not needed, but with lights that have retaining rings it’s the best option for sure.

Did my first of the TripleStack’s in the OP. The driver is definitely more work assembling that a traditional design, but for me it’s worth it for the clean look on the battery side. I also could have compressed it quite a bit vertically, but there wasn’t any reason to with the L2’s big driver pocket. I’m very pleased with the clearance for the programming clip.


Copying here my TripleStacks made specifically for the EagleEye X2R and X6R.

For the X2R, you just remove the top board on the original driver, get rid of the extra header pin, and solder this in its place. For best performance, you will also want to solder the big pad on the bottom to the top of the USB connector on the charger board. Headroom is tight, but the LED wire pads should line up perfectly with the holes in the shelf. If you order from Oshpark, be sure to get the thinner 0.8mm size. Also note the FET is the smaller LFPAK33 size.

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For the X6R you will also use the stock pins. You will run ground wire from the charger board to the pad/via by the FET. The LED+ hole is over a spot you can safely drill through the charger PCB to bypass the spring/PCB. I’ll illustrate all of this with pictures once I finish my X6R mod. Also be sure to order this one in the 0.8mm size.

Looks good PD!

Thanks! The X6R is probably the best board I have ever made. I think even DEL would say the circuit is routed as well as can be, there should be plenty of clip clearance, Tom would be happy with the power path, and it even passes my aesthetics standard.

Well done pd. Love your work. :+1:

Hey pilotdog,

I’ve been lurking this forum lately and I’ve been reading a lot of your posts. Anyways, I really want to build a 17mm rev2 but I haven’t figured out what parts I need. Do you have a list somewhere of the parts needed to populate the board? I’ve looked but I couldn’t find it.

R1 19.1k (or 191k)
R2 4.7k (or 47k)
D1 Reverse polarity schottky diode (sod-323 I think?)
LFPAK56 FET
Attiny25 (SSU?)
C1 10uf X5S or better
OTC 1uf X7R

Caps and resistors are 0805

Another user reported an issue with the Triplestack X2R board. It seems I may have specified gaps closer than Oshpark can make reliably. There didn’t seem to be too much demand for that one, so for now I have taken down the link. If you are interested in ordering it, just let me know and I’ll fix the issue and repost.

Please fix it! I would love to mod a X2R with with a Triplestack variant.

I already ordered the X2R TripleStack board but I haven’t gotten around to assembling it. I can do some testing on it if it’s helpful. It’s the least I can do to support your work.

Check your board, there might not be anything wrong with it. So far just one reported problem

What should signs of a problem should we look for? A quick visual check shows that spacing between the pads shouldn’t be an issue, but it’s difficult to tell what’s going on with the traces that aren’t exposed.

I aslo checked the normal 17mm Triplestack base boards I ordered by accident and I may have found a problem with them. One of the three boards I ordered has an electrical connection between the center hole a smaller hole close to it. None of the others have it, so I think it could be an issue.

What 6mm springs do you use for the tripledown rev2 17mm?

I generally use the Qlite springs from mtn but got some springs ordered from Simon I am gonna try out for my next batch.

Coftheconsumer, can you recheck those boards? One of those pinholes does need to have a connection to the center/springpad legs, but it’s not the one you circled.

I built a d80 with triple stack driver this week. I finished today and was excited as I took some extra time with this one. It was working great this afternoon and I decided to rest and then put it through the normal tests to check for runtime and heat and such. So I entered programming mode to disable thermal stepdown. I waited for option number seven. Then clicked within the first second to disable TS. Well after doing that, it went to low mode and stayed there. Now it’s stuck on low without the ability to reenter programming mode.

So I think I might have bricked the firmware:(
The driver and driver cavity are fully potted as well. Anyone have any ideas?

I’d say post something in the firmware thread. This one doesn’t get much traffic

Ya. I’m thinking there’s not much I can do but dig it out and try reflashing it. Thanks:)

@PD

Is the firmware you linked in the OP working correctly? I think I remember you mentioning somewhere that something isn’t working the way it should (was it LVP?)?

I’m basically searching for a 3-channel clicky firmware that features a turbo timer…

PD where are you man!? It’s way cooler here when you’re around… :beer: