Yes, I can do a shave on one of them, but do not expect miracles, the light intensity and throw increase will not be as spectacular as a full dedome, and on top of that, the ‘photon recycling’ process works better with cool white leds that remain a strong blue component after passing the phosfor layer.
Damaging the phosfor layer will of course be bad for tint and CRI.
However, if the phosfor layer stays intact, dedoming does not decrease CRI enormously, a good dedome will shift the tint to warmer, but from what I have found, a nice CRI led will never get a bad tint upon dedoming.
Yes, I know all of this. I am interested in the effects it has on this specific led. For example does photon recycling reduce the yellow spot effect? Does the light quality change in unexpected ways (the dome has extra phosphor in it?).
As PM-ed as well, I checked at 1400mA (and so did clemence), the ‘spiegelei’ problem (funny that you know the dutch word for egg sunny side up ) is not current related, so it must be uneven phosfor deposition during production. It is seen in several 6V high CRI 144A sample leds that clemence has received, but not the 12V ones. Clemence is checking with Nichia about it.
Hopefully this is only sample defect. So far only the AME (6V) has the egg yolk problem. It’s not cool to import hundreds of egg yolks all the way from Japan, we have plenty down the local market already.
Of course I know what is spiegelei (spee-hae-leey) :laughing: , dutchmen were in my country for 350 years. Many words in Bahasa language derived from Dutch too. I’m also 12,5% Dutch (according to Mendel’s theory).
It’s the sm575 Ra9050 beamshot Chouster, will test the sm305 later. I don’t really remember what it was like.
Now you made me realize the macro pic of the sm305 indeed makes me hungry
Yup, it’s the macro pic and that tasty looking spiegelei color of that sexy looking Nichia sm305 Ra9050… Also the X pattern appears to be hidden better with that thicker phosphor layer…
@djozz: can you please test to reflow the 114A to a XM Sinkpad / Noctigon? Perhaps the + or - on the terminal pad and - or + to one normal +/- pad. That should work I think.
Why? I’m sure I will get that to work, but I guess you want to know the performance like that? I’m not going to do another 144A test soon, but my guess is that it will perform close to the test on my N119 board: the DTP-pad will make it heatsink a bit better, the too small pads will make it heatsink a bit worse.
It’s quite effective at improving the tint, color rendition get bumped up a bit, it’s unfortunate that Clemence doesn’t have any 4500K anymore, would have made a nice neutral-warmish LED with rosy tint since they had a better tint I believe.
With a Clear TIR (Olga RS) there is a strong eggyolk effect, significantly reduced with slicing but still too apparent.