Seeking advice for how to stack resistors - FX-30 driver mod in Convoy L6

Less heat, more run time with the R120. (R100 will be less resistance, more amperage, somewhat more lumens)

thank you db

Does anyone know if adding a resistor effects the other brightness levels or just the highest level?

Only turbo mode, other modes are not affected.

Another question. In doing this resistor mod, aren’t you just soldering it in paralell atop the existing one?

Correct, just slap it on top and solder it in place.

The difference with an R100 is noticeable but not mind blowing by any means. But then in my EDC going from 800 lumens to ~1200 lumens is hardly noticeable to the point I don’t even use turbo anymore.

Whooahhh…just looked at my spare driver from Simon. I’ve done simple mods before, BUT …now holding the driver in my hand and seeing how tiny these things are I don’t think I’m capable. Not with my existing iron and steadiness of nerves in my hand/fingers. Mannnnnnnnnnnn

Anyways……

So , there are 2 R082’s on the board. Do you solder the R100 over the terminals of both R082’s or just one of the R082’s?

It doesn’t matter as long as it is connected to both ends.

It’s the same, they’re in parallel

Thank you will34. I’m still a dummy with boards… :blush:

That’s what it thought as well. Lol

You might need to buy a new tip that’s narrow and pointy if your existing one is too rounded. Have good lighting, a clean work space and a magnifying glass. I’ve got a thing called a “helping hand” that can hold the driver and a magnifying glass right over it. Then rig up a good light to shine on it. Use some very pointy tweezers to position and hold it down. If your iron is hot and clean with a tiny bit of solder you should be able to just touch one end for a second and get it done.

There are actually tutorials online for soldering tiny things. Check those out. You can even practice on an old circuit board you have laying around. It’s not that hard.

Yep, I’ll have to re-tool before attempting such a MINI -mod. And I thought I was good when I did an led re-flow……LOL

Hey there,

I tried a resistor mod on my L6 as well. I used a R091 out of another driver I don’t need anymore. I couldn’t really notice a difference to my original other L6. I tried different batteries but not a real difference. I bridged the resistors with a few cm of 22AWG wire. The light didn’t work. It just flashed one time for a tiny bit of a second after clicking the tailcap switch. I have the “silver” version of the light.

Anyone here that has an idea what could be wrong?

Thanks,
Tom

Adding the R091 should give you 7.25 A if all spring bypasses are okay. 4690 lm vs. 3800 lm stock should be noticable but difficult so see without direct comparison. Better measure it.
The 22AWG could have triggered the overcurrent protection of your protected batteries.

Is it working without the wire now?

Does anyone know anywhere in the uk an r120 can be found?

Is this the right one? - PANASONIC - ERJ3BSFR12V - RESISTOR 0603 R120 1 0.2W For 5 for sale online | eBay

Or either of these? - http://www.mouser.co.uk/Passive-Components/Resistors/SMD-Resistors-Chip-Resistors/Current-Sense-Resistors/\_/N-7h7yu?keyword=R120&P=1ymfaz2

I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to these things :smiley:

Your Mouser link has the needed 1206 size of the R120.

The resistors size is 1206
If you stack in in there it needs to handle about 1.8A

1206 in English measurement
3216 in metric (3.2mm by 1.6mm)

I don’t think I’ve seen them rated in amps, just watts. We need at least a 1/4 watt.

I just found an old circuit board with some 1206 R100’s on it. Is there an easy way to measure, calculate or otherwise determine if these are rated at 1/4 watt?

Not that I know of. I’ve seen that size in both 1/4 and 1/8 watt. I’d try it and see. I guess the worst thing that could happen is it’s not 1/4 watt and might fry itself and your back to stock.