One thing that is “missing” is the lanyard/strap attachment point.
Other than that it is nice and clean.
Not sure how I feel about it yet, still sipping coffee as I think about it; but nice work ‘thijsco19’. :+1:
The TN31 used to be the throw king when fully modded, highest throw about 590 kcd, maybe 610 kcd, and it has a 79 mm head diam, but that was with a dedomed XM-L2 U2. The K70VN did 570 kcd max, though bigger head diam at 88 mm, but only using the stock XHP35 HI LED. I did some searching and can't find any mods to the K70 to really push it's limits - maybe it's not an easy light to fully mod, like the TN31 was, or maybe the reflector design is not the best for max throw - dunno.
The Fenix TK61 when fully modded gets up there, as high as 770 kcd, here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?417181-TK61vn-NOW-AND-THEN, but with vinh, he cherry picks LED's and we modders really don't know all that much about what he is doing. I don't think anyone else achieved those results, or even close with a TK61. The TK61 has a 96 mm head diam, close to the TN42 @100 mm.
Of course today, the TN42 is "the" thrower to use as a mod platform to experiment with because of it's size (head diam), but we don't really know how it will perform with a dedomed XPL for example.
Yeah, I caught that, I figured he just have not got around to that yet.
Still, it is too much flat empty space, my brain says something should be there.
People do not experiment with the TN42 because it is too expensive. First of all not many pieces are sold, and people that have dedicated 200$ for a light don’t really want to gamble on ruining it. That is why we need a good host with a decent size reflector. Like this BLF project. If TN42 was sold as a host it should cost 35-45$ and you would have seen much better projects with XPL dedome, and ultimately with XPG2 dedomed and a MNT 5.5A driver. But at 200$… Not so much.
If we succeed in this project the mods will be a lot more numerous, I assure you. 
Thanks for the answer Tom E! Much Appreciated 
Indeed, havent got around to make it. Also, there is no bezel on it now, haven’t made it yet.
I agree, it’s very clean and smooth. It looks like it missing something. Though, I really wouldn’t know what you can add in between. Maybe when tweaking the dimensions/proportions it will look better.
Just don’t understand…IMHO
Is the 5ar/first design so crappy that some of us want to sit hours in front of a pc and work with a completely “new” design, that still needs much more input than the first/original design??
I don’t get it……
Most of us (as I can see it) think that just tiny-tiny changes on 5ar’s first render is what we want/need…and our work really needs to be done on other things. (Reflector/manufacturer)
By all means, it’s awsome to see other peoples design skills/propositions, but then we have to go to post #4, to have a closer look.
Bechause what is wrong with that render (except for small changes that is mentioned in post #1307)?? 
What is not to get about folks wanting a product to look good?
Also, the topic title at the moment indicates it is now about just that.
So frankly, what i don’t get is why people seem to want to stick to 5ar’s design, which i.m.o. should be considered preliminary as well.
There are definitely some design (aesthetic) issues between the battery tube and the bezel in 5ar’s design, so we try to solve this.
Either by proposing new looks or adapted looks.
I think that’s a good thing.
It’s how cars, furniture, you name it, are produced too.
You make some designs that look good, and then you figure out how to manufacture it and / or adapt it to specific needs.
5ar’s renders on left, both top & bottom photos… thijsco19’s on the right.
I thought it would be easier to compare if they were side by side. It is for me anyway.
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Take a new look at post #1307 !
seem to be a forgotten post…….
I like 5ar’s original design, it works for me in every aspect.
I would like to think that having had close to 200 lights of my own, this gives me some experience in these matters. Having modified over 400 flashlights, I’m pretty sure that qualifies me. All the check points are there in 5ar’s design. It’s unique, it’s functional, it’s pleasing to the eye and the hand. It has style cues on a popular flashlight but doesn’t look like it for the most part (hold up your L6 and look at em side by side, plenty of differences and then figure in the sheer size factor.)
This is what’s wrong with taking a popular vote on a design, the choices get split and there’s no clear winner. I would venture a guess that for those people that would actually put a light like this to use, on a regular basis, the 5ar render is the go-to choice. The head style gives a rugged nature that wouldn’t allow it to get banged up easily, and at the same time it could do some banging if that’s what was needed of it. As a user’s tool, the design we currently have is an excellent choice.
Kawi got several TN42’s for $161 ea. I got mine for $179. He’s modifying two of his, I’ve bumped power in mine and am seeing just over 710Kcd. I was cautious, not knowing how much the driver could stand as this whole 12V thing is pretty new to me. I may try again and give it a little more… if I end up frying the driver I’m not against using a ramping FET driver and going whole hog.
Well, for me it’s simple.
I just love it to design a light.
Made a small mistake but the outcome is surprisingly good looking. 
Left picture it has 6 flat side. It even looks good having 4 flat sides.
Those flat sides lose a tremendous amount of surface area for cooling and serve no real purpose. Sure, it looks neat. But it’s function that establishes form, not the other way around.
Could the fins be “cut” the same depth on a circular profile such that they’d be thinner on the flats and deeper on the corners? The 6 flat sides has a neat look, perhaps it could be 5 flats and 5 indentions in the bezel/head? They’d match and the 5 on the bezel or head portion would give an anti-roll property.
Maybe you could draw it up this way for fun and see how it looks?
(My thought on the 5 flats is that you’d have a corner opposing the flat where the switch resides, helping to locate the switch by feel.)
One worry I have had for awhile is that the switch is too “tall” compared to the handle. What is the size of the area where the switch is compared to the handle?
I agree with Dale, the flat sides do have a neat look but also loose a lot of cooling ability.I would really like the fins cut as deep as possible without making them weak.
Indeed, you’ll lose a lot of surface area so I dont think its a good idea.
Not sure what you mean? You want to make the fins the same depth as they are thick?
The only problem with 5 sides is that you’ll lose the tripod mount. You dont have 2 opposing sides anymore for a side switch and tripod mount.
Also, those flats on the head wont contribute to the anti roll function. They wont touch the table when you have the battery tube installed.
Hmm. Just tried it with 5 flats and 5 cut outs on the head but they wont line up… Not sure why. Though It had 6 cut outs on the head so with 6 flats they line up on the high spots.
Well when it comes to taste everybody is expert of their own
Love the design Thijsco more Q8 like
Yes only a flat for the button and tripod mount since those serve a purpose.
Indeed this weekend it the time to get to a outside look
The original design needed some updating anyway so this is the moment
I have PMed 5ar and I think that if he manages to get that done we will see a render that looks like the original, Jerommel and Thijsco design are merged into a pleasing result we all can live with.
These Jerommel and Thijsco input got a good idea and supplement the original design IMHO
(Lol I had a design where I took the Q8 and just widened the fins to end where the smooth surface of 5ars original started (above the strap attachment point)
But did not want to complicate things and saw that Thijsco has made something not all that different yet addressing some issues of the first render.
Very cool!
The longitudinal slots on the bezel/head will stop it from rolling on a table.
Who says the tripod mount HAS to be directly opposing the switch? From a photography perspective it would make most sense to mount the light on a tripod that can extend quite high, to give an angle to the beam that would be overhead. If the switch was on top, it’d be dang difficult to reach! If it was on the next flat to the tripod mount it would be easy to change modes even if mounted overhead.
I understand you my friend, and It`s much appreciated, don`t get me wrong :+1:
And that idea with 6 flat sides have my attention! Then the light can be laid down on a table with the head outside, and still don`t roll away…
I liked that ide
But I cant wait to see 5ar new rendering with all that was mentioned in post #1307 
Not sure why anyone would want it table stable with the head off? Every time you remove the head you introduce contaminants to the closed system, the reflector will end up dusty and possibly even fingerprinted. This is why the big names glue lights, it’s how they can control the closed waterproof system for an extended warranty.
Edit: about the fins, with flats on the switch portion…. we have a circular hole on the inside with threads for the battery tube to screw into, right? What if the fins were cut first, before the flats, such that the fins would all be the same depth, then the flats cut such that the flat areas still have some fins, they just wouldn’t be as deep on the flats as on the corners. This would give variable depth to the fins and create a turbulence from the heat rising away from them, possibly helping to create a pull that would aid heat transfer to the air when stationary, like on a tripod. Just a thought, don’t know if it’d be viable or not.
Ah after checking post 1307 is mine
No worries if it gets forgotten in the thread, it is just awesome to see all you bright minds posting, lol I forgot my own posts because of it.
And for what it is worth, I just know I’ll love the GT no matter how it looks, this new journey already makes it beautiful!