Very nice!!
Funny VW, I just got done with my own Rey Ti tube light triple! lol
I dug out an old driver with the big Vishay 07N02 MOSFET on it, replaced a couple of components to ensure it worked properly, now I have 7 modes to 3 XP-L emitters (dome on) under the Carclo 10507. With an 18350 (how I’ll use it) it’s making
31.57 lumens
82.11
356.73
665.51
1003.95
1411.05
1918.20
This is on an older light purple Efest 18350.
The board is one of the very old original designs when we first quit using Qlite’s stripped down, it’s got components on both sides so I soldered the ground ring into the threads instead of using a retaining ring. There are positive via’s out close to the edge for the positive lead to the emitter, the ground ring would overlap these. They literally left a gap in the ground ring for these 2 side-by-side vias, it’s crazy! This is BLF 17dd Ver 3.0, if you want to look it up. 
The LVP resistors and Offtime cap are on the battery side of the board, along with zener pads and the reverse polarity diode. THAT’s how big the 07N02 FET is!
I literally found a copper pill with a Noctigon triple already mounted, with 3 XP-L emitters on it, in my kit. (They show up orangy under a UV so they’re in the 2B-3D range) It fit right into this Ti tube light so I went ahead and used it. Was a bit dumbfounded to find it, as I know this is a limited run light, where that copper pill came from is beyond me. It had a copper retaining ring in it as well, the new one had a brass retaining ring. Beats me! But it fit, so it’s in the light and working! lol
Kinda working on a couple at the same time today. Got a bunch of switches bypassed including this lighted one in the SS. Did a few things while the hot plate was on too. Got another SS while the price was right and finished it up today. My second SS triple and did this one with the elliptical optic. Same emitters as the other with polishe optic, XP-L HI 3A. Kept the X6 driver and the lighted tail on this one. Typical hot issues with the reversing brightness but it stays on pretty long on high before it kicks down or the UI issues start. Copper body was stripped of coating, copper spacer soldered into it and the XP32 MCPCB soldered on top.
Cute-3 elliptical? Are you sure?
I’ve got a question…
What wires should i use from driver to leds on a triple xhp70 light , with fet driver ?
Sorry for not using the correct terms, it is 3:30 AM here.
That soldering on the bridge looks real sweet will. :+1:
I did bypass on both springs on the s41s with 22awg wire and changed the stock thermal paste with Arctic MX-4. DMM readout at the tail shows 12.1A with VTC6 @ 4.2v. If i remember correctly in stock form it was about 10A so 2A gain is not bad, it gets hot even faster tho, after 45sec turbo run you cant even touch the copper, it will burn your hand, not very usable.
The super hot running lights work great on cold winter nights. Just sayin…
The CUTE-3 from Ledil comes in Soft Spot, Medium, Wide, that might be the Medium VW used… the wide has an entirely different apperance, somewhat like a sharkskin texture. I’ve seen the wide optic cut 1100 lumens off a 4000+ lumen build.
Hey DB or anyone that can offer advise.
Got the Rey Ti X6. No glass. Is there room for it? or don’t bother. Not in a position to preassemble it but can order to get a head start.
Oh, would need the OD too please.
I just used the Optic, no glass lens. The bezel won’t fit on properly with the added thickness of a lens.
Thanks Dale.
Darn, sometimes I an doing or using stuff that will kill the plastic. I would like and prefer glass over. Oh well.
The glass adds what, 1.85mm? I could cut you a copper or aluminum spacer to fill the gap between the bezel and head, then the glass lens would work without leaving any exposure?
Thank you, will have to see if that would work. Can’t check it ATM, thinking about the O ring at bezel to head.
Also striking out finding 35mm glass. KD has some slightly over 36mmX2mm thick.
I decided I didn’t want my Rey Ti tube light to be a triple, it’s so normal! So I pulled the pill with the triple Noctigon and worked for several hours to fit a TIR with holder into the head by filing it down, then re-flowed a 20mm Noctigon onto the new copper pill and fitted a Nichia 219C in 5000K tint. The inside spacing is off, an 18350 is too long by 5mm as is an 18650 with the extension, so I am using an 18500 instead. I’ve got Bistro on the FET+1, this one from MTN electronics with the through board positive direct to the emitter.
Beam profile is nice with a surprisingly tight hot spot, fairly well defined. I have an o-ring at the top, so everything is sealed tight. Now to find the monies for all those trits!
Edit: on a modified Sanyo 18500 flat top (I soldered a heavy spring to the top to fill the gap) it makes the following lumens in 5 modes I have set up…
9.66 Lumens
87.98
257.03
600.65
1229.6
I don’t have moon engaged, have set thermal step down which ended up around 40 seconds.
Getting concerned for you Dale. Are you feeling OK?
after that rebuild you may have had your Ti tube apart more times than I did.
Well, I AM sick, been on antibiotics for an ear infection from all the drainage. Coughing, sneezing, pretty beat up really, but hey, When you’re down, and out, and you need a helping hand, just grab a light, and hack it however you can…… 
I might just cut the extension tube so it allows an 18350 to work, the light just appeals to me so much more in short form.
Sounds awful, sorry to hear that. It seems that every single person I have enountered since T-day has been trying to get me sick. Even my own family.
As of now they have failed. But back to work tomorrow, and more opportunities for others to try.
Get better soon. I want to see that Ti as a triple again.
Just kidding… 
bout the triple.
Nick
I didn’t use a glass lens in mine but with the head screwed all the way down there was still some rattle from the optic…I put an o-ring between the optic and head and it worked.
My ReyLight Ti tube light is now a dedicated 18350 EDC. I chopped the extension tube to gain that 5mm I needed, made a top smooth band to match the one at the rear.
This spacer ring is threaded onto the main battery tube, it has an inset cut to go inside the o-ring shelf in the head.
I need to clean it up a bit, supper was getting cold.
What happened to the rest of the extension tube, you ask? It’s a ring now!
