D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Thanks! Did you test it without a bleeder first?

Are these 0805 size? I ordered a bunch of leds from ebay, and they seem awfully small.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272173424833?\_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=570984529339&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I placed one right above the led on a prebuilt illuminated tailcap I had so you can see just how small these suckers are. They just barely span over to each pad.

Those look more like 0603

Ok, thanks for verifying. I was thinking there was no way I was going to be able to work with these. I mean the slightest static or movement from my fingers makes it go shooting across the table never to be seen again. This sucks…waited several weeks to get those so I could finish my giveaway build. I’ll try ordering from a trusted vendor this time.

If I did I don’t remember doing so.

This discussion made me check my TG06. I did not install a bleeder, and it works fine. The tail PCB is one of the original 2 led, 2 resistor models. 2 Green Led’s, 1 (4.9Kohm resistor), and a Home Depot plastic washer :wink: Don’t know how to check for drain, but it is barely visible in daylight.

The switch I posted in my pic a few posts above is from a BLF X6. Can you verify the LED in that is 0805 size? I had contacted the vendor on ebay and they stated they didn’t carry anything in the 0603 size. They were only .99 for 100, so I’m not too concerned, but I don’t want them to send me the same things again.

I think you got the correct size. The resistor next to the led in your picture is an 0805. My astrolux SC has the same size led that’s in your picture. I think they may be 1206. I was able to use an 0805 on the other side of the board though, with a little work. I couldn’t imagine trying to solder a 0603.

I concur with Dusty. I switched around some color/resistor values on my “stock” BLF X5/X6 lighted tailcaps and Manker definitely used something larger than 0805 originally. I put some 0805 emitters on my boards too, because its all I had. It can be done. Just remove that bigger emitter, glob up more solder than you’d normally use on the pads, and kinda “stretch” it over to contact the smaller 0805 LED. It’ll work fine, and you can’t tell it at all once its reassembled.

Ok, thanks for verifying guys. Now that I look at it, I can see the silkscreen print around the resistor is smaller than the one around the led. Well dang, I’m glad I bought these in bulk ’cause I can see myself losing half of them.

I didn’t know that, thanks

The real fun part is when you start playing with 0603 and 0402 components.

I don’t think I’ll ever go for 0402, but I do have a bunch of 0603 LEDs sitting around. The worst part is figuring out polarity on them.

Mine have an arrow on one side. I simply tap the ends with my multimeter on diode test mode and see which way they light up, then I know that the arrow means ground/positive.

I have some questions regarding the bleeder.

1. Does a bleeder drain the batterie when there is not ltc?
2. Is a higher bleeder value better for batterie lifetime or is the lifetime only determined by ltc led current?
3. how can I measure the current drain?

Thank you!

I’ll take a stab at answering, but I could be wrong:

1. No, because a normal tailcap completely breaks the path of electricity flow (using an itc creates a path around the switch)

2. I think this should be negligible, but if you can get away with a higher resistance (say, 1K ohm) that might be better

3. Check to see if your DMM has a mAh setting. If so, remove your tailcap and jumper with a wire and your DMM leads between your flashlight body and tailcap. That’s how I’ve done it at least.

Thank you!

That’s basically all correct. The bleeder doesn’t affect standby drain but is a source of inefficiency when the main emitter is on. You can calculate the loss - V=IR. It’ll be negligible at higher current draw but could make moonlight and other low modes half as efficient or even worse. So yes, use the highest value bleeder you can.

I finally have most of my parts in. Going to first try using the Rev5 base with a Rev5.2 top. If I am going to do 2 different colors then I take it the best config would be 1 color for each channel. I’d like to try using pots, so would it work best for each channel to have its own pot? If that is the case, then I would need to bridge ‘b’ on the top board. Obviously, connect pos and neg on top and bottom. Other than adding the pots to the bottom board, is there anything else I need to cut or bridge for this configuration? Doesn’t seem like it, but checking anyway. Thanks.

First try a success. Can’t tell from the pic, but it has both blue and purple. I used 2 pots which I find very easy to work with. You may notice the pos and neg test leads are reversed. This is because I accidentally reversed the leds. I do have one issue. It’s pretty bright when connected directly to the battery, but once placed in the light the leds dim significantly. The light and modes all seem to work without issue. Does this indicate the need for a bleeder on the driver? Thanks.