Review: 10W Cool White LED Floodlight from Wallbuys

Pyro makes a very valid point, but I do not think it addresses the question being asked.
Because VF rises with input current, the resulting power dissipation is not linear.
A hypothetical example:
If = 1A, Vf = 2.9V, P = 2.9W
If = 2A, Vf = 3.1V, P = 6.2W
If = 3A, Vf = 3.3V, P = 9.9W
As you can see, power increased in a non-linear way.

Again, since the driver is in the box, you have to allow for its’ dissipation also. Total power you have to shed is volts in * amps in.

The driver’s in a separate box at the back, barely thermally connected to the main chassis. The driver will have its own thermal issues, because of how it’s installed (check my review and mod above to see why).

As a purely theoretical/non-10w-floodlight question, the LED converts input power into one of two things: waste heat or photons. So what I'm getting at is if you hit the point where efficiency starts falling off from the peak, doesn't less lumens mean more of that power is turned into waste heat instead? Like if you had a graph showing all 3, wouldn't the lumens & heat curves start to diverge after a certain point?

That’s what I said…

I have one of those 500W halogen floods that burnt-out or dropped too many times, can't remember. Anyways it doesn't work anymore so in goes the 20W LED from ebay.

My main hobby is woodworking and one of my pet peeves is not being able to see properly when I'm spray finishing. I need a raking light, which is a light that shines towards or from the side at a low angle to the surface you're working on. I need to see the finish hitting the surface so I can compensate the speed or height of the nozzle. Nothing worst than spraying blind. Anyways I purchase many flood light fixtures and stands in the past but never satisfied with them. Either they are too bright/intense, runs too hot, or not easily adjustable to the height I need.

So when in doubt, build you own. This is what I came up with. Some scrap metal shelving supports and metal framing braces/sheet metal cut to size for brakets. 3 x 10W LEDs. Height can be adjusted between 4 to 6 feet. Ain't pretty but 100% functional~!

Does the silver metal thing where a reflector would normally be actually do anything useful?

On the ones that I tested, you lose around 35% of the light without it…

it holds the emmitter in place, its screwed down and gives a nice firm press to the LED…

I just scored 10 X 10W warm white emitters for less than $10 on ebay to replace my cold white ones. Not a bad deal. :bigsmile:

Good stuff! Was it a Buy it Now? Link?

Here’s the same seller with a “buy it now” option, but I bid on the ones I won.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-NEW-10W-Warm-White-High-Power-Supper-Bright-LED-Light-Lamp-Chip-DC10-12V-/360672100364?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item53f9bb800c

Check the sellers other items for lots more…

Thanks for the link. Your deal was much better, under $1 each!

Well, it wouldnt have cost me anything… if you hadnt opened your mouth to brag about how much you enjoyed the warm tint. Reading your posts always seem to cost me money and time… darn you!! Now Ive got to mod all of my floodlights before they even get mounted! :smiley:

The link is also best offer and I dont think any of the completed bids went over $14. There’s also lots of others on ebay. Some come in 5 packs, so dont give up.

Ahhh, my work is done here :smiley:
I will be keeping an eye on those emitters. I still have a few from my last (apparently overpriced) order.

UPDATE:

I bought a couple 12VDC Cree MK-R emitters to try out in the 10 watt floodlights.

4500K
6500K

The MCPCB wasnt DTP but its definitely copper. I reflowed the emitters onto some sinkpads and will use the copper stars for another project.

The mod wasnt a direct swap. It required a 3/16” inch aluminum plate to lift the MK-R to the same height as the stock COB emitter. I made the shim plate quite large to help spread the heat load and sanded all the surfaces for better heat transfer. I reshaped the rectangular opening of the reflector where it abuts to the emitter to make it dished so it sits flush around the MK-R

Results with driver mod:

Before:
COB CW - 30,100 lux - 13.7 watts

After:
MKR NW - 51,700 lux - 17.1 watts

The neutral MK-R recorded a 72% increase in lux over the stock COB for a 25% increase in power and provides a very noticeable increase in light to the eyes. Even more pleasing is the far better neutral tint and higher CRI over the cheap cold white COB. I think the additional watts measured from the MK-R is because it has a lower vF than the COB, allowing the driver to provide a touch more power.

Now the price for 10W cool white LED floodlight already under $5

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This post is really help and useful!

But today is 2016/12/02 (sorry, guys. I’m arrive here tooooo late, haha :person_facepalming: )

Nowadays, the latest trend of LED flood light is ultra-thin design with high brightness SMD LEDs for better heat dissipation.

Some of your must already saw and have this new hot-selling LED flood light, and some one maybe not. If you are still not, have to check this Ultra slim LED flood light!

The specification you shared is a little old.

1: Now, 150lm/w led begin to be normal.

2: Most 18650 lithium battery do not have enough capacity and circles.

Now, I found an amazing solar lights, the integrated solar street lights : https://www.adnsolarstreetlight.com/