Man Scott, I don’t know if I’ve expressed this enough but those may be the most gorgeous L series builds out there. I can’t help but stare in awe! :money_mouth_face: :+1:
Great theme friends! I am looking for my next modification and I have in sight a Convoy L2 with XP-G2 dedomed, but I interested ah move to the one L6 with XP-G2 dedomado … that interesting everything I read.
Thanks for sharing
I have one from Dale , which is making 439kcd if i remember correctly.
Personally , i would use dedomed xp-l v6 , throw won’t be over 350kcd but it will have 2k lumens too.
Pretty sure the de-domed XP-L V6 won’t do 2000 lumens. Maybe 1600. Since the die is essentially an XM-L2 die it’s likely it would be doing good to make 330Kcd, but if every last trick is pulled it might fare a little better. Would be interesting to see how it stacked up huh?
There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.
And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.
And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well……
So I’m about to pull the trigger on an L6. I’m going to get the full flashlight and swap in a XHP70 P2 1C and use the original XHP70 in something else.
Should I just go with RMM’s 30mm L6 driver? Is it hard to reprogram? And which 26650s? I’d prefer to buy them from RMM so I can get them before Christmas.
The stock driver is quite good unless you just want to go for max output. In the mid range modes the stock driver will be better.
If you want max output the Texas Avenger 30mm should be ready shortly. I have the PCB’s, just don’t have the parts and waiting for a few updates in narsil to release it. Or you can build it yourself as well, I am selling the PCB’s bare as well due to how much they cost from Oshpark.
Well thats great then, you can simply use the SRK drivers for it. You would need to use the LDO version of the SRK driver which I do not have any PCB’s for though.
There are other SRK drivers as well naturally but you need to make sure thay have an LDO.
I will see what parts I have left, been meaning to go through them. I think I have enough laying around to put together 1 or 2 drivers.
Maukka already has dibs on the first one, I will see if I have enough parts for a second. You can keep an eye on the thread in my sig.
Would it be possible to piggyback/bypass the stock driver on either the L6 or the J20? Might could use a 17mm driver then, but I have no clue if it needs heatsinking.
Yeah, you could do that as well, if you do not use the 7135’s on the L6 then it doesn’t need much heat sinking at all but that kind of defeats the purpose.
With the J20 you could not use 7135’s anyways so it would not really matter and you could piggyback a 17mm on it if you wanted.
You could of course piggyback an 17mm FET driver into the L6, run the top binned XHP-70 over 7000 lumens if you so desired. Just use an e-switch compatible firmware, like TK’s ramping variant, and you’re good to go. Richard also has e-switch FET drivers. There’s all kinds of options, including Richards 27.5mm Mtn Max that fits in the L6. Might be tough soldering the switch wires if your near vision is a problem.
Stacking an R140 resistor on the existing resistors of the stock L6 driver will get you up in the 4000 lumens range and not make excessive heat, if you could live with that. You wouldn’t even have to remove the driver completely.
The TR-J20 is a big capable light, but if you’re really going to push lumens output you’ll probably need some heat sinking as the stock light doesn’t transfer heat well from the emitter shelf area down into the heavily finned area in the lower head. Mine’s doing 15,000 lumens on 4 of the 9V MT-G2’s with an FET driver. I have about a 1/4” thick plate as a riser on top of the emitter shelf, and I made a heat sink to fill the head above the driver. Without this heat sink, it’d heat up pretty fast.
One key to the TR-J20 running max is to use TrustFire 32650’s, they’re the top output cell in the category that I’ve found.
Why the LDO in the TR-J20 TA? It’s a tail clicky light, nothing special there.