Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

I have one from Dale , which is making 439kcd if i remember correctly.
Personally , i would use dedomed xp-l v6 , throw won’t be over 350kcd but it will have 2k lumens too.

Pretty sure the de-domed XP-L V6 won’t do 2000 lumens. Maybe 1600. Since the die is essentially an XM-L2 die it’s likely it would be doing good to make 330Kcd, but if every last trick is pulled it might fare a little better. Would be interesting to see how it stacked up huh? :wink:

About throw : Convoy L2/L6 modding thread - #8 by Mitko (325kcd using dedomed W2 emitter)

A comment from Mitko about Lumens : Convoy L2/L6 modding thread - #67 by Mitko

If i understand right , there isn’t a big loss from dedoming the emitter . ( I haven’t tested it my self , xp-ls hate me when i try to dedome them )

There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.

And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.

And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well……

Mine are always lower :stuck_out_tongue:

Not a very good thing when you’re into modding :smiley: I verified it once again with your L6 …

Yeah I know the feeling! I do back flips and cartwheels, if the thing even (emits light) Turns ON! :smiley: :+1:

So I’m about to pull the trigger on an L6. I’m going to get the full flashlight and swap in a XHP70 P2 1C and use the original XHP70 in something else.

Should I just go with RMM’s 30mm L6 driver? Is it hard to reprogram? And which 26650s? I’d prefer to buy them from RMM so I can get them before Christmas.

The stock driver is quite good unless you just want to go for max output. In the mid range modes the stock driver will be better.

If you want max output the Texas Avenger 30mm should be ready shortly. I have the PCB’s, just don’t have the parts and waiting for a few updates in narsil to release it. Or you can build it yourself as well, I am selling the PCB’s bare as well due to how much they cost from Oshpark.

T_A, bout how long do you anticipate until they’re ready?

Also might need to ask you about some other drivers - I need one for my TR-J20 - 12x XM-L2, 3x 32650s, going for max output.

Well the PCB’s are ready now if you want to build it yourself. Not sure when I will have the funds to get the parts to build them myself.

Narsil works now, it could just use a few tweaks.

On the J20, what size driver is it setup for? Also, will you be wiring the LED’s in 3s4p?

The J20 has roughly a 46mm driver (maybe even exactly 46mm), and yeah I’d run the LEDs in 3S4P.

I don’t really want to build the driver myself. Too much going on and I’m still getting used to the loss of my near vision. Getting old sucks.

Well thats great then, you can simply use the SRK drivers for it. You would need to use the LDO version of the SRK driver which I do not have any PCB’s for though.

There are other SRK drivers as well naturally but you need to make sure thay have an LDO.

I will see what parts I have left, been meaning to go through them. I think I have enough laying around to put together 1 or 2 drivers.

Maukka already has dibs on the first one, I will see if I have enough parts for a second. You can keep an eye on the thread in my sig.

Would it be possible to piggyback/bypass the stock driver on either the L6 or the J20? Might could use a 17mm driver then, but I have no clue if it needs heatsinking.

Yeah, you could do that as well, if you do not use the 7135’s on the L6 then it doesn’t need much heat sinking at all but that kind of defeats the purpose.

With the J20 you could not use 7135’s anyways so it would not really matter and you could piggyback a 17mm on it if you wanted.

You could of course piggyback an 17mm FET driver into the L6, run the top binned XHP-70 over 7000 lumens if you so desired. Just use an e-switch compatible firmware, like TK’s ramping variant, and you’re good to go. Richard also has e-switch FET drivers. There’s all kinds of options, including Richards 27.5mm Mtn Max that fits in the L6. Might be tough soldering the switch wires if your near vision is a problem.

Stacking an R140 resistor on the existing resistors of the stock L6 driver will get you up in the 4000 lumens range and not make excessive heat, if you could live with that. You wouldn’t even have to remove the driver completely.

The TR-J20 is a big capable light, but if you’re really going to push lumens output you’ll probably need some heat sinking as the stock light doesn’t transfer heat well from the emitter shelf area down into the heavily finned area in the lower head. Mine’s doing 15,000 lumens on 4 of the 9V MT-G2’s with an FET driver. I have about a 1/4” thick plate as a riser on top of the emitter shelf, and I made a heat sink to fill the head above the driver. Without this heat sink, it’d heat up pretty fast.

One key to the TR-J20 running max is to use TrustFire 32650’s, they’re the top output cell in the category that I’ve found.

Why the LDO in the TR-J20 TA? It’s a tail clicky light, nothing special there.

The LDO is because the J20 is running 3S batteries, it will fry the MCU is you don’t knock the voltage down.

A zener would also work but the LDO is more reliable and only costs and extra .70 cents. Well worth the cost IMHO.

Plus a 5V LDO will have higher drive voltage for the FET and thus lower resistance over a 4.3V zener.

*Attention, anyone looking to build an L6 thrower:
*The L6 smooth reflector is available once again. :+1:
Purchase link here:
L6 SMO reflector.

I’ll also add this update and link to the OP.

So if I built the FET driver with an LDO for my TR-J20 and replaced the zener modified FET driver it would do more than 15,000 lumens?

Edit: That’s actually a bit of a trick question, because I’ve run a 9V MT-G2 in direct drive with no driver at all and I know what it’s limits are….

It is impossible to say without trying it but it should have slightly less resistance. Weather that reduced resistance is enough to net you a noticeable increase in performance can only be seen by testing it.

Although that said, it is not worth the effort to swap drivers for sure, the difference would be very minor.

The LDO vs zener only effects the MCU. It does give a higher drive voltage to the FET but in the case of the sir800 that is a fairly minor reduction in resistance. Now on lesser FET’s it can be a fairly large factor.

Heads up modders!

The short (single cell) tube for the L2/L6 should be listed in the next few days. :sunglasses:

It will only be available in black at this time.

I’ll add the link to purchase and any additional info to the OP once it’s available in the Convoy store.