A 9A driver from kaidomain and parallel the leds?
Or would the Vf difference fry them?
You are correct. I was answering the more generic question of what 3 x XM-L drive options were available.
The Manafont driver is buck/boost, but 2-cell minimum.
The NANJG driver sandwich is the only one-cell option of which I'm aware.
I have a KD SST90 driver, and it's closer to 6.5A than 9A. It requires 2-cells as well.
If this 26650 torch has a single driver pushing 3 XM-Ls, then it's a new boost driver that we've been waiting for. I'm skeptical, but hopeful that that's the case.
I have no experience with that new driver. I ordered two for testing, and will report back. Thanks for the link.
I have ordered one, hope only, that it finds out how many cells are connected, that KAI didn't put constant cell protection on 5.7V and we will not be able to use it with one cell despite it can work like this. And second thing is size, but that may be solved on host already.
This FandyFire HD2010 accepts a 26650 battery, and the hot spot on it is extremely bright. I look forward to testing the output on this light tonight.
I was initially planning to upgrade this to a U2 emitter, but it looks like this won't be necessary.
Preliminary indoor testing, which usually doesn't reveal too much, indicates this light will probably far exceed the throw of my 3xT6 SkyRay SR3800.
Update to come.
great - finally someone has one in hand!
also - very interested in the KD driver testing, since their description doesn't make sense (ie 1 cell, 5.7v cutoff)
Nightbreaker, update soon :) Measure driver diameter please and maybe how much place is in there in deep?
Don't forget that the S1 and TM11 accept 4.2V input for at least 2000 lumens. But those cost much more of course so definitely more design and engineering goes into their driver.
Let's hope this is a great thrower, i like it being compact.
Is it worth buying a charger and 26500 instead of using 18650?
With KingKongs for example you know that you get over 4000mAh even on a 10A discharge. So, yes you get better runtimes and the cells can deliver high currents if you need that now or in the future. For the price you can almost say that you have 2 x 18650 cells in one.
What charger do you have, any charger can charge 26650 cells with you use some wires and a couple of magnets.
The HD2010 is a great thrower. I tested it last night at work. Beats anything I have, but my next best thrower is the UltraFire MCU-C88 modded by E1320 (Erik) with a Cutter U2 1C driven at 3.5A.
I will post beam shots soon, after Xmas. For now descriptions will have to suffice.
The HD2010 far outclasses the MCU-C88 for throw, and it spanks my TrustFire TF-R2, which has a T6 pill screwed in. However, the smaller lights are more compact. I'm currently modding a holster for the HD2010 to see how comfortable it is on a duty belt...
However, comparing these three lights, the beam on the HD2010 is more spotlight-like, whereas the C-88 and TF-R2 have brighter/larger coronas around their hot spots, which provides more of a spot/flood beam that comes in handy for lights used on night patrol.
BTW, my King Kong 26650 batteries fit in my C-88. I just can't screw the tailcap all the way down. There is a 2mm gap produced by screwing the cap on about 80%, which seems adequate. Also, the 26650 batteries charge fine with no mods/magnets in my TrustFire TR-003P4 charger that a received recently. I can charge two 26650 batteries simultaneously in this charger by just popping them in. The King Kong batteries seem very high quality. I'm thinking I'll order a few more... I also ordered a USB single 26650 charger, but I haven't used it yet because the TrustFire charger accepts the 26650 batteries.
Also, the HD2010 out throws my SkyRay SR3800 3xT6, but the flood on the SkyRay far outclasses any other light I own for sheer light output. This is why I'm looking forward to receiving my BeamTech BT-4000, which I think has started shipping.
http://www.tmart.com/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Gray_p136640.html
This is the light that I have the highest expectations for ATM. But for now, the HD2010 is a very impressive spot/search light that I'm sure will be easy to carry on a duty belt. Last night I kept it in a cupholder, which makes it very accessible for spotlight use from the vehicle.
I'm sorry I don't do the multimeter testing to see what the light pulls. I still need to order one of those inexpensive multimeters so I can do this and report on this stuff. However, it seems to my eyeballs that this T6 is driven fairly hard, like maybe 3A or more, but this is a guess. I'm thinking the T6 is driven hard because the hotspot appears quite bright...
More updates to come on all this.
Can someone post some pic of the pill and driver etc, please.
Buy a luxmeter, measuring the tail cap current tells only one part of the story.
I just requested that this light be on the Deal extreme offers page for a discount. So keep an eye out! Ya never know. Others should do the same. There are enough of us on blf that we can request certain sku's and they will see what is in demand. The sku for this fandyfire hd2010 is 107154
How much is a luxmeter? Which affordable one is decent?
+1
What diameter is driver :)
This is a popular model, owned by many : http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-lux-meter-with-stand-200000lux-5100
With a luxmeter you will always measure the output, and how the reflector and the glass come into play. Tailcap currents are relative, the multimeter's resistance, leads resistance, driver efficiency, etc. The glass can cut even 10% of the lux, at that point approximating the throw and the brightness on the tailcap currents is not accurate at all.
Also, it can show 4A on the multimeter but if the driver has a 75% efficiency that's is 3A to the LED.