It really depends on how well your flashlight can collimate, this method is almost irrelevant for regular reflector LED flashlights.
I made a separate post to explain everything: The proper way of calculating lux / cd / candlepower
Getting back into it… Its been 4-5 years since I modded anything.
I thought my fave EDC of the last 5 years needed a little upgrade. Most nerve-racking part was getting the head apart with a strap wrench and small vise.
Old pale green tint XPG2… I cant remember the Flux BIN either R4 or R5.
Today I “fixed” my new Astrolux S41S. I held off on this guy because there were some issues, but as soon as the improved heads started shipping I placed my order. The light came a few days ago. Overall its a really nice little light, but it had some shortcomings. I ordered mine with the Nichia 219b option, which is nice of course, but 219b’s driven hard by this little 18350 cell resulted in some serious output drop. They just sagged like crazy. Also, I learned that these little lights come with the original A6 driver, not the new tiny25 Bistro driver. Booo.
So out came the 219b’s and in go 4 219c SW40 90cri emitters. Should have a lot less sag. At the same time I fitted a MtnElectronics tiny25 driver with Bistro and the thru-board bypass, a fantastic driver. Much better. Just for good measure, and because I love them so, I added a lighted tailcap that sorta looks like this. Sorry for the crappy cell phone shot:
One final note: I was surprised to see that the light came stock with a lighted tailcap switch…without the LEDs or resistor. Just bare pads. Its the 2-emitter board like is used in the X5/X6 lights. And of course it comes with the translucent boot too. I chose to use a 6-emitter ring board but anyone who just wants a simple lighted tailcap has already got most of the hard part done in their lights.
Thanks, it really looks better in person. I should try to photograph it with a real camera. It took some fiddling with values, but I wound up at 120K for the blue, 68K for the orange and 44K (I think, maybe 46?) for the green. They’re really close to even but the blue may still be slightly brighter.
Hmmm…
That’s strange…
I think it should be parabolic, not with that change of curvature…
Reminds me of the disappointing recoil reflector in the recoil topic…
And i was planning on getting a catadioptric myself, but postponing it because of disheartening shipping costs…
It’s as if it is not allowed to make an efficient tight beam light with a simple optic…
Awesome stuff guys.
I just caught up on this topic and i see great stuff being done.
So i just wanna say: :+1: :+1: :+1:
I was planning to post something about my current mod, but it’s not that interesting and my camera has issues… (actually the USB cable is failing and it has XD card which fits nowhere else…)
But i’m doing my Jacob A60.
XP-E2 R5 1A on Noctigon and a 6x 7135 driver, which may be a bit much…
Iḿ dedoming the XP-E2 at the moment, i use a warmed up mixture of paint thinner and benzene, and this seems to work well.
A tiny and quick mod today: I wasn’t happy with the tint offering in the Nitecore TIP CRI, too warm for my taste. So I swapped a 5,700K 92CRI Nichia 219:
Disassembled
The reflector is a 2-piece design, both made from aluminium. The diameter is larger than the centering ring and has a bit of play, making the stock XP-G2 uncentered.
Nichia reflowed and tested
Removed the factory thermal glue and potted with healthy amounts of Arctic alumina epoxy.
Everything back in place
Nice nichia tint
The tint looks warmer than the picture, I suspect KD sent me a 5,000K version instead of 5,700K. But color rendition is excellent specially the reds.
Yes. I tried it without first - became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.