Three Oslons tested: 1) latest gen. Oslon Black Flat 2) SSL80 4000K 92CRI latest gen. 3) SSL80 4500K 96CRI 1 gen. before latest

Could you post a mouser link to the other two oslons that you plan to test? Just trying to keep up my homework. Someone said you were going to be giving us a test.

@Djozz

The XP-E2 “torch” is still a great choice, especially for smaller single cell lights when heat management and runtime matters.

Yep, just took a look at datasheets of Oslon black versions 1.1 and 1.5. Two cathode pads on both. However they must have had a reason to do it that way…

Great work, thanks.

Are there Oslon Black Flat emitters with larger die surface?

This small is pretty close to good old type of S4 2B…

Probably it would be the same if mcpcb could be hard pressed to thermal paste or soldered directly to pill, but as Djozz described; it has small issue (led-minus is electrically connected to the central thermal pad).

Hey djozz, someone directed me again to your amazing tests when I asked about the black flat LED :stuck_out_tongue:

So I’m just wondering, you said the S4 XP-G2 reached 1420lm max, and with a side length of 1.48mm and area of 2.2mm^2 it is only 648lm/mm^2 correct?

How is that higher intensity than the nearly 800lm/mm^2 of the oslon flat black? In fact isn’t it maybe over 800lm/mm^2 due to the cut out corner?

And the 7N bin is supposed to get 400lm at 1A based on the datasheet, why were you only getting 300?

HAHAHA

Wouldn’t he like to know as well!
I can tell you that Djozz is a bit frustrated about that but no worries: he has ordered some Oslon black flats for some mods…… :sunglasses: so I’m sure the will do some further testing.

A member of the German forum has modded his Eagletac M25C2 Turbo to over 1Mcd.
Of course the spot is tiny and the modded light uses two cells in series.
Measurements were taken with a calibrated Gossen Lux meter.

1Mcd+

I’m planning to modd my Fenix TK61 with this led, and perhaps one of my Thrunite Tn31’s and the Olight M2X UT Javelot.
Focussing will be a bith thought, with a led this small :wink:

Grtz
Nico

Ok, well I hope he does a bit more testing to figure out exactly how intense the flat black is, because I would really like to have an alternative to the XP-G2.
This is the graph I’m looking at, and I’m not sure if the S4 2B in this graph was dedomed or not…

If it was not, then the lumens coming from my XP-G2 are probably significantly less than 1400 since dedoming loses some lumens.

Since the flat black doesn’t need to be dedomed, it would still have 800lm/mm^2 which would be a lot more than the 500-600lm/mm^2 of the XP-G2 (because ~1000-1200lm / 1.45^2)

djozz does not measure luminance of LEDs, he measures lumens. Two totally different things. For throw you need to know the luminance [cd/mm^2]. Lumens per square mm of DIE-area should be a good estimate though, but only if the actually value (also the size) measured is actually precise and representative of all the LEDs of this kind. For Osram LEDs this isn’t the case, because you can’t buy the Black Flat 2 in a single BIN. Osram only sells you a range of Bins. In the German TLF forum multiple people have found out that there is a rather large variance between these LEDs. If you want a “good” Black Flat that will actually produce the super high luminance values, you either need to be lucky or buy multiple LEDs and test them individually under the same conditions. Testing means that you test with a lux-meter if it gets brighter until 4A or even 4.5A. If it doesn’t, you got a “dud”.

Here is a thread in the German TLF forum, where somebody tried to precisely measure the luminance of a Black Flat. His LED got brighter until 4.5A where he stopped measuring. He didn’t actually calculate the luminance from his measured values, but sma and I did that for him. His LED managed 250cd/mm^2. That is around 10-25% better compared to any XP-G2 that has ever been measured in this way.
Just like djozz he only tested one sample though…

cd/mm^2 should increase linearly with lumens, no?
so by just doing lumens / area I should be able to compare between LEDs

Also, yeah I see it actually is 8M7N so the LED could be anywhere from 8M (280lm) to 7N (400lm)
The LED itself is really cheap, only $1.5 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/osram-opto-semiconductors-inc/LUW-HWQP-8M7N/LUW-HWQP-8M7N-ND/5719260
Problem is that I don’t have stars for it, nor do I know how / have the equipment to reflow one of these onto a star every time to figure out which one works best.

Even just assuming that the 1420lm is with a dedomed S4 XP G2, the 800lm on 1mm area die should still be better than the 1420lm on 2.1mm area of the XP-G2, right?

EDIT- ok so I read djozz’s post wrong, the one that is NOT higher than the XP-G2 is the XP-E2, the black flat IS higher than the XP-G2 :stuck_out_tongue:
When talking about XP-E2: “(edit:I was wrong here, after a suggestion by chouster, a quick calculation learned that an S4 XP-G2 reaches a higher surface brightness when at max)”
When talking about the flat black: “(edit: also higher than a S4 XP-G2)”

So that clears things up…
Now the question is, can I pay someone to reflow a bunch of flat blacks onto copper stars? plz :slight_smile:

I’m not planning another test on the Black Flat, it seems like on TLF they did a good enough job :slight_smile:

@Enderman: you can reflow Oslon leds on XP-G boards, does not fit exactly but it will work fine if you do not use excessive solder paste.

@Nico: sorry, have not ordered Black Flats yet, still waiting for rs-online to list the 90CRI 3rd gen. Square, but it should be any day.

Yes, it increases just the same. This also the why you only need one precise luminance value and a standard lumens graph like the one from djozz. You can calculate all the the other values.

lumens/mm^2 is generally ok (for de-domed LEDs), but you need to be really precise! Also you can’t use this value to actually calculate the throw of light (you can do this with the actual luminance value).

Perfect, thanks.
Unfortunately I don’t have an integration sphere to compare the lux between LEDs…
Do you think just running them at 4A and picking the one that shows highest on my luxmeter will work just as well?
I’m not trying to find out the lumens, or the curves like djozz’s graphs, just the one with highest intensity, since they would all be the exact same led.

Would you do it if I paid you? :stuck_out_tongue:

There must be someone closer to you who can reflow leds?

I thought maybe you would enjoy reflowing a bunch of LEDs and keeping most of them, since I would only want like the top 3 or something, haha

I usually just buy my LEDs from mtn electronics, he does reflows, but he doesn’t have any osram LEDs.
Maybe I should ask him to get a bunch?

Good idea, I’d like to be able to buy some!

You don’t need special equipment. A stove top and a pie tin will do. Pre tin the star using a soldering iron and heat in the pie tin until the solder melts and the led settles into place.

Well, I think someone who’s done if for years will be able to do it better than me…
I don’t want some ugly burnt piece of copper, I like how clean the ones I buy are :slight_smile:

Yeah I toasted a few but the learning curve is pretty steep and if you practice on the ones you want to replace it doesn’t come at any great price. Hint: it doesn’t take enough heat to burn the silk mask. Waiting sucks, I have a bunch of LEDs and mcpcb’s and the hardest part is remembering which direction to install them.

@ Enderman & The_Driver: in Germany the flat was tested at 250cd mm^2, but that was including optics. Without it should be even better.

@ Djozz: no worrie, no hurrie mate. Just make sure you get enough of them to satisfy my modding needs :wink:

It looks as if this Oslon will be able to take the pencil beam throwers a good bit further the the XP G2’s. :+1:
and without tint shift!! :+1: :+1: :+1:

Grtz
Nico