Thanks, it really looks better in person. I should try to photograph it with a real camera. It took some fiddling with values, but I wound up at 120K for the blue, 68K for the orange and 44K (I think, maybe 46?) for the green. They’re really close to even but the blue may still be slightly brighter.
did you use bleeder for the driver emarkd?
One more 
for that slick soldering 
Hmmm… 
That’s strange…
I think it should be parabolic, not with that change of curvature…
Reminds me of the disappointing recoil reflector in the recoil topic…
And i was planning on getting a catadioptric myself, but postponing it because of disheartening shipping costs…
It’s as if it is not allowed to make an efficient tight beam light with a simple optic…
Awesome stuff guys.
I just caught up on this topic and i see great stuff being done.
So i just wanna say: :+1: :+1: :+1:
I was planning to post something about my current mod, but it’s not that interesting and my camera has issues… (actually the USB cable is failing and it has XD card which fits nowhere else…)
But i’m doing my Jacob A60.
XP-E2 R5 1A on Noctigon and a 6x 7135 driver, which may be a bit much… 
Iḿ dedoming the XP-E2 at the moment, i use a warmed up mixture of paint thinner and benzene, and this seems to work well.
Maybe i’ll put up some pics later.
Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?
Well, let’s say i hope it is really R5, but it’s advertised as such here:
I say hope because there was some horrible feedback on XP-L W2 he offers…
I saw this after i ordered, of course…
Got some of these on its way too, for fun:
A tiny and quick mod today: I wasn’t happy with the tint offering in the Nitecore TIP CRI, too warm for my taste. So I swapped a 5,700K 92CRI Nichia 219:
Disassembled
The reflector is a 2-piece design, both made from aluminium. The diameter is larger than the centering ring and has a bit of play, making the stock XP-G2 uncentered.
Nichia reflowed and tested
Removed the factory thermal glue and potted with healthy amounts of Arctic alumina epoxy.
Everything back in place
Nice nichia tint 
The tint looks warmer than the picture, I suspect KD sent me a 5,000K version instead of 5,700K. But color rendition is excellent specially the reds.
That shop again …
Both me and Kawiboy have sent messages to this seller in the past without response . (for other items)
Yes. I tried it without first - became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.
What value did you use?
After potting it I’m pretty sure it will be stuck in that TIP forever
The tint is really nice, unlike any other tint I’ve seen before. Makes me wonder why I still have so many CW lights…
So did i get ripped off?
At first I didn’t use any but it didn’t work in an acceptable way. So I put a 470 in it, because that’s what I had on hand. I’ve used up to 6-700 ohms before with good results. My driver now works pretty much like the tailcap isn’t even there, although it is now possible for me to click too fast to enter the programming. I have to kinda slow down just a bit when doing those 15-or-whatever clicks or it never registers. Not a big deal at all.
No . It’s a good seller but they are not responding in messages of non-buyers.
Looking at the pictures, it also comes with a nice corrosion spot on the centre pad. :person_facepalming:
that’s not corrosion, many cree leds have that and presumably it’s from testing the leds at production time or some of the production steps involves using heat that’s why you have central pad discoloration
Changed Utorch UT01’s led , from cool white xp-l to xpl hi v2 3d . Really like the tint and the better throw - flood ratio .
Also , i did the same thing to Thrunite TN12 . Intesity went to 16.5kcd (from 11.5kcd if i remember correctly) , not bad for a tube light !
It could be corrosion, or oxidation, because it’s where the holes in the reel tape are, and they’re ‘new old stock’ so they must have been stocked somewhere for quite a while.
Cheap too at $5.75 for 20 pieces.
And it’s the last generation of the super tiny die Cree LEDs, so it should be fun in AA zoomies.
First i had to figure out the chromaticity coordinates, but iḿ glad i could choose “WD”, which is 1D and 2A.
They also have “WJ” which is 2D and 3A.