Yes. I tried it without first - became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.
What value did you use?
After potting it I’m pretty sure it will be stuck in that TIP forever 
The tint is really nice, unlike any other tint I’ve seen before. Makes me wonder why I still have so many CW lights…
So did i get ripped off? 
At first I didn’t use any but it didn’t work in an acceptable way. So I put a 470 in it, because that’s what I had on hand. I’ve used up to 6-700 ohms before with good results. My driver now works pretty much like the tailcap isn’t even there, although it is now possible for me to click too fast to enter the programming. I have to kinda slow down just a bit when doing those 15-or-whatever clicks or it never registers. Not a big deal at all.
No . It’s a good seller but they are not responding in messages of non-buyers.
Looking at the pictures, it also comes with a nice corrosion spot on the centre pad. :person_facepalming:
that’s not corrosion, many cree leds have that and presumably it’s from testing the leds at production time or some of the production steps involves using heat that’s why you have central pad discoloration
Changed Utorch UT01’s led , from cool white xp-l to xpl hi v2 3d . Really like the tint and the better throw - flood ratio .
Also , i did the same thing to Thrunite TN12 . Intesity went to 16.5kcd (from 11.5kcd if i remember correctly) , not bad for a tube light !
It could be corrosion, or oxidation, because it’s where the holes in the reel tape are, and they’re ‘new old stock’ so they must have been stocked somewhere for quite a while.
Cheap too at $5.75 for 20 pieces.
And it’s the last generation of the super tiny die Cree LEDs, so it should be fun in AA zoomies. 
First i had to figure out the chromaticity coordinates, but iḿ glad i could choose “WD”, which is 1D and 2A.
They also have “WJ” which is 2D and 3A.
My Employer gave me a Helping Hand today. OK, Sorta…
They did unknowingly Sponsor this build with parts and time. Nice when the Dept Super is on Vacation…
Idea from PilotDog’s link, maybe, in this thread?
The flex hoses we use on machinery at work. Of course I dug up new ones for my personal build. Found the powder coated steel blocks on parts shelves and had 2 pre-drilled holes in each. Used some MEK to melt the powder coat and clamped the 2 blocks together in a vise till they were fused together. No glue just the PC acting as glue. Drilled the holes to size and tapped for the fittings. Still need to mount up some alligator clips. Base is pretty heavy, enough to hold what I will be using it for.
Similar items sell for $55 and mine was… Umm… paid for by my generous employer. Actually only took 20min to make. Need to remember to a get a piece of adhesive backed rubber pad tomorrow, for the base.
Well, oxidation is a form of corrosion and yes it is exactly where the holes are in the tape. And Sirius, that certainly doesn’t come from production or testing. Those are LEDs that weren’t stored properly, under too humid conditions or something like that. Shoot the seller a message if you receive LEDs like this. I received a few that looked like this. Used very fine grit sand paper to sand off that stuff and reflowed them right after. I mean they worked fine, but that’s not how I want to receive my LEDs, especially expensive ones. I can overlook that if it’s a cheap LED, but if I pay 7,99$ for one XP-L HI or something, than I’m quite pissed if they look like this and I let the seller know.
Yet another X6 triple. The baked brown finish was shown 6 or 7 weeks ago. I’m not always this slow. So this is an Eagle Eye X6. First baked. Then the tail cap received a wire bypass. The driver is the MTN17DD NUV FET+ 7135 with Bistro firmware. The triple Noctigon has Cree XP-L V6 3C emitters and the Ledil optic is the Cute3-SS version. The copper spacer is from Kiriba-ru. I used ceramique heat transfer paste between the MCPCB and spacer as well as the mating surfaces of the spacer to head. I retained the glass with the O-ring between the glass and the optic. It seated okay with the bezel fully screwed down to the head.
I have run it on a 30Q flat top and Wow!, it sure is bright on turbo!!
I have not run a amp test but will get around to that sooner than later I hope. I’m also looking forward to getting the integrating sphere and will check the output when it arrives. Right now all I can say is it is BRIGHT!! on turbo and very very low on Moonlight. Very cooll!! And I really like the optics beam pattern!
Very nice Don!
Did you happen to have any trouble with the MtnE 1.6mm thick driver? On my EE X6 Triple I needed to apply a layer of solder on the outer ground ring, making it thicker, to get good contact under the retaining ring.
Mine tightened down nicely the way it was/is. Maybe there is some variability in the host?
It’s dark enough here now to head out for my walk with the EE triple.
My BD04 driver did not come out as pretty and I removed one of the chips because I thought I got it to hot and had a problem… I was wrong, oh well + 3 better than +0!
Nice build! I’ve got one of those Kiriba spacers here for a similar build but now I’m thinking I may bake my host too. Looks great!
That’s the first time I see a baked X6, well done!
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I got my 2 W2 emitters today from AE. One was 1C and the other 1A, both tints are very similar with the 1C producing a bit of greenish tint in the lower modes and some in the spill, pure CW in turbo… I thought it would be a bit neutral but no. It replaced a XPL HI in a EE X2R and it seems a lot brighter. Now I’m unsure about what to use for a triple build, these W2s or the new XP-L2.
Pretty simple one today: My clear-ano Convoy C8 came in a day or two ago. It came with a translucent tailcap. I don’t know why these manufacturers keep tempting me with these tailcaps. They’re basically begging to be illuminated from within. So I did:
