Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

I had the MI7 and the Manker E11 (the Original of this clone) and kept the Manker. Both are excellent AA/14500 lights with lots of power, but the beam pattern is completely different. MI7 has XP-L Hi and is more like a little thrower (tight bright spot and much darker spill) , and it´s only available in cold white. The Manker on thr other side is much floodier, which I prefer as an EDC that is also used indoors. Plus it´s available in neutral white.
K.

Very helpful comparison, thanks for sharing!

+1 @Andyman. ;)

Thanks for the info Kusie. :THUMBS-UP:

I’m convinced. Ordered NW :slight_smile:

In the UI description I’m missing the “shut down” (off). I guess a longer press will do?

Exactly

This mirrors my opinion.

If tube almost like another one, i guess it will fit in.

I using XTAR 14500 for T01.

OK, I’ll bite…are you contradicting post #20 and referring to post #19?

If so, many thanks for sharing your opinion (I would order at least one more if this were true).

Curious….
How does it draw 2.01A from a 650 mah Efest 14500 purple IMR… and achieve a 45 minute run time?

650 / 2010 = 32 min

Where are the extra amphours coming from?

Obviously it can’t draw the same Amperes all time it’s running.

Exactly . I said runtime until LVP kicks in …

OK cool thanks!! Can’t wait to get mine. I am thinking about ordering the Manker version too.

…pushing past the above and entering uncharted areas of ignorance (on my part)…are there ever enough threads on these unprotected lights to simply grab a few when inserting a protected cell (not fully tightened)…while then reaching for my favorite ‘fix’ this side of tie wire…Gorilla tape?

I could care less what a light looks like if it works with a protected battery.

On my unit Xtar 14500 protected don’t fit in my unit . (If that’s the question , didn’t really understand the question :frowning: )

Giorgos, I think what Freedom is asking is if there are enough threads where you screw the tail, so that if he doesn’t screw it totally (to the end) he can use a 14500 protected battery (like the XTAR 14500). Leaving the tail a little bit up (not totally screwed), the protected 14500 might fit.

Understood and thanks for sharing (again), George.
The previous poster seems to be disputing your claim (which I have a hard time believing given that you have the exact same cell) and I’m asking whether a similarly/comparatively shorter protected cell would work if it was jerry-rigged/held on with but a few threads engaged and some quality tape applied to hold it there.

Do I like operating in that matter? No.
Do I shy away from unprotected battery powered lights with LVP circuits which don’t shut off (yes).

I am still excited to receive this light. I also figured that I would receive quite a bit of pushback from even ‘suggesting’ that it could be made to work with a protected cell (safely)…which it probably can’t be (or perhaps tint snobbery extends to overall appearance as well for hard core aficionados).

If the tail isn’t 100% screwed light won’t work (because of the Anodized threads) .

…so here comes the “there’s-gotta-be-a-way” guy in me:

What if you taped/somehow protected the spring and sand-blasted the threads?
Would the light light turn on (soon enough) as some of my other lights do (I always just assumed that their threads were anodized as well) or at some point in time before the two pieces are threaded together?

Then again, perhaps hard anodizing is just that on such a thin piece of metal (thread) and not practically ‘micro-sandable’…

…so here comes the “there’s-gotta-be-a-way” guy in me (sorry) :wink: :

What if you taped/somehow protected the spring and sand-blasted the threads?
Would the light light turn on (soon enough) as some of my other lights do (I always just assumed that their threads were anodized) or at some point in time before the two pieces are threaded together?

Then again, perhaps hard anodizing is just that on such a thin piece of metal (thread) and not practically ‘micro-sandable’…