Hey guys,
I just got one in today, a grey one (form Gearbest).
Good to see the PCB can be removed with some heat, because there are (indeed) some design issues that should be solved.
I love the tiny size though, it’s, well, it’s really tiny. 
The heat management is a joke though, and the switch is just waiting to break from the PCB by the looks of it.
I hope to find a satisfactory way to improve things and put a Nichia 219C in it, but that looks to be a real challenge.
Well, that didn’t go quite as planned:
Oops…
In with new driver and triple mcpcb 
I’ll try to repair it first.
Then take the XM-L2 off and see where we’ll go with this POS.
…i mean DQG.
So, i guess this is one of my lucky days…
Just dropped a three legged black thingy on the floor and now it’s apparently gone to another dimension…
I don’t even have carpet here, but it’s gone…
i wish there was a better switch solution too but i can;t think of one
mine failed electrically, and broke off the pc board - at the same time!
wle
I HAVE FOUND IT !!
Yesssssss !!!
Soooo tiny….
Now back to reassembling the PCB…
Yeah that sucks…
Mine came off too eventually, but i’m gonna fix it with grey epoxy.
No chance it will come off again.
It’s a shame this light is so poorly thought out regarding the PCB.
Well, all the parts are back in place again.
Quick test showed it works, but not sure about the modes yet. (fumbling with tweezers as a switch)
I put the switch back on too with a bit more solder and a blob of grey epoxy.
Will be able to test in a few hours.
I’ll put up a pic of the result and how i secured the switch.
And if all is well, i’ll take off the XM-L2 and see if what can be done about the non existent heat management.
That went faster than expected, so here is the picture:
And it works as it should too. 
Grey epoxy blob behind the switch.
I put some in between switch and PCB as well.
And now hope to find a proper solution for the total lack of heat management.
lot of work!
curious what you can do about the heat problem, that is the reason it;s tiny after all…
if you get the heat out, then the outside will get hot(ter).
mine gets pretty warm just on high, not even turbo
wle
It took a while, yes…
Good Lord those SMD parts are tiny… :confounded:
Found another design flaw that really helps breaking the switch off the PCB too.
I will show you later.
My guess is they had better plans but it turned out to be too expensive to produce.
Either that or it’s just a bad design.
Not sure what to do yet, but i have some ideas.
Like a copper ring on top of the LED in contact with the shelf, and making the + pole a disc with a seal pad between it and the brass ring that now has the foam rubber on it.
Then a thermally isolated iron battery contact, but maybe that’s not necessary.
It’s a challenge…
That’s the idea of a thermal path, isn’t it?
Like this the heat is only transferred to the battery top and nowhere else.
Imagine how hot the LED will get… :person_facepalming:
Welcome to modding 101.
Some of these lights it seems like they spent more time designing mod defeats than actually worrying about the light. That emitter on board stuff is ridiculous, I don’t know why they haven’t figured that out yet.
Good luck!
It could have worked with a copper or even aluminium board, but it’s just regular epoxied fiberglass (or whatever PCBs are made of normally).
I can hardly imagine this was the original plan.
DQG tends to try to make the smallest possible light for a given format. They can shave off several mm by putting the emitter and driver on the same board instead of using a separate star. Zebralights are built the same way.
Unfortunately, this does make them much more difficult to mod.
Hmmm…. It seems the easiest way to solve cooling problems is making it a triple…
Make that R010 resistor a direct bridge for a bit more turbo and just put one of my Kaidomain 219C triples in there (when they arrive) and forget about solving impossible things…
direct bridge give You ~2.3A at Turbo
FET also has a resistance
Hmm… 2.3 Amperes : 3 = 0.77 Amperes per LED in a triple… That’s not much…
No, i will try to fix the thermal issues as it is now.
Keep it a single LED light.
Maybe i can make it work.
Just checked. With triple nichia (warm white from fasttech) turbo on a freshly charged battery 18650-25R is 2,08A… (R010 changed to the R000)
Okay, that’s low…
But those are 219A Nichias.
219C has significantly lower Vf so will probably draw more current.
Either way, for a triple this driver is not powerful enough i.m.o.
I took off the XM-L2 anyway, and i will try to make a tiny 5 x 5 x 1mm thick DTP MCPCB to put one 219C on.
The TIR works better anyway when it is mounted over a 3535 in stead of mounted on top of a 5050, i just checked that out.
Wish me luck… :confounded: