With KingKongs for example you know that you get over 4000mAh even on a 10A discharge. So, yes you get better runtimes and the cells can deliver high currents if you need that now or in the future. For the price you can almost say that you have 2 x 18650 cells in one.
What charger do you have, any charger can charge 26650 cells with you use some wires and a couple of magnets.
The HD2010 is a great thrower. I tested it last night at work. Beats anything I have, but my next best thrower is the UltraFire MCU-C88 modded by E1320 (Erik) with a Cutter U2 1C driven at 3.5A.
I will post beam shots soon, after Xmas. For now descriptions will have to suffice.
The HD2010 far outclasses the MCU-C88 for throw, and it spanks my TrustFire TF-R2, which has a T6 pill screwed in. However, the smaller lights are more compact. I'm currently modding a holster for the HD2010 to see how comfortable it is on a duty belt...
However, comparing these three lights, the beam on the HD2010 is more spotlight-like, whereas the C-88 and TF-R2 have brighter/larger coronas around their hot spots, which provides more of a spot/flood beam that comes in handy for lights used on night patrol.
BTW, my King Kong 26650 batteries fit in my C-88. I just can't screw the tailcap all the way down. There is a 2mm gap produced by screwing the cap on about 80%, which seems adequate. Also, the 26650 batteries charge fine with no mods/magnets in my TrustFire TR-003P4 charger that a received recently. I can charge two 26650 batteries simultaneously in this charger by just popping them in. The King Kong batteries seem very high quality. I'm thinking I'll order a few more... I also ordered a USB single 26650 charger, but I haven't used it yet because the TrustFire charger accepts the 26650 batteries.
Also, the HD2010 out throws my SkyRay SR3800 3xT6, but the flood on the SkyRay far outclasses any other light I own for sheer light output. This is why I'm looking forward to receiving my BeamTech BT-4000, which I think has started shipping.
http://www.tmart.com/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Gray_p136640.html
This is the light that I have the highest expectations for ATM. But for now, the HD2010 is a very impressive spot/search light that I'm sure will be easy to carry on a duty belt. Last night I kept it in a cupholder, which makes it very accessible for spotlight use from the vehicle.
I'm sorry I don't do the multimeter testing to see what the light pulls. I still need to order one of those inexpensive multimeters so I can do this and report on this stuff. However, it seems to my eyeballs that this T6 is driven fairly hard, like maybe 3A or more, but this is a guess. I'm thinking the T6 is driven hard because the hotspot appears quite bright...
More updates to come on all this.
Can someone post some pic of the pill and driver etc, please.
Buy a luxmeter, measuring the tail cap current tells only one part of the story.
I just requested that this light be on the Deal extreme offers page for a discount. So keep an eye out! Ya never know. Others should do the same. There are enough of us on blf that we can request certain sku's and they will see what is in demand. The sku for this fandyfire hd2010 is 107154
How much is a luxmeter? Which affordable one is decent?
+1
What diameter is driver :)
This is a popular model, owned by many : http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-lux-meter-with-stand-200000lux-5100
With a luxmeter you will always measure the output, and how the reflector and the glass come into play. Tailcap currents are relative, the multimeter's resistance, leads resistance, driver efficiency, etc. The glass can cut even 10% of the lux, at that point approximating the throw and the brightness on the tailcap currents is not accurate at all.
Also, it can show 4A on the multimeter but if the driver has a 75% efficiency that's is 3A to the LED.
Okay, some dimensions.
On the emitter side (above), the OD of the pill appears to be approximately 32mm, and it looks like it screws in from the top. I think this side has a lip that seats on a ledge on the inside body of the head. The board on the top has an approximate size of 15mm. This was taken as a rough measurement across the white disc covering the emitter board.
On the driver side (above), the driver appears to have an approximate size of 17mm, but this measurement was taken from the OD of the aluminum ring that appears to be holding the drop in in place from the underside of this pill. The indents on this ring are not very deep, so screwing it off might be problematic for me unless I deepen them. Yes, that little scratch is evidence of my one short attempt at screwing this off to get a look at the inside.
As can be seen from the markings, the driver board is marked East-092B. The pill from this underside is approximately 29mm in diameter (maybe the threads add another 1mm?).
I have a tr003p4 http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/trustfire-multifunction-liion-battery-charger-tr003p4-110240vdc12v-eu-plug-p-8639
I to not have the TR003, but you probably may apply the sample technique as yavi with his TR01 https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/5251#comment-99107
Or you can use 2 wires that on each end have a small magnet. A red wire for the positive end and a black one for the negative end.
Like these: http://martinwhite.name/images/February_04_2011/thumb/web/IMG_5955.JPG
So you would use an extender practically, from the contacts in the charger to the contacts on the battery.
Dammit, another host that I might have to buy and mod. I'm really impressed by the throw compared to the C88. Thanks for the pictures Night Breaker!
Don't forget that the C88 here was modded with an XM-L and was not a standard XR-E Q5 C88. Given this is it that surprising that the XM-L light with the huge reflector size advantage, the 2010, walked all over the other XM-L light, the C88?
I got this flashlight. :)
Some measures:
>5,5A !!! (more pressure on battery = more Ampere)
@1m = 38000 Lux
Reflector (outer size: 58x38)
Lens 58
26650 fits
Body: 160 x 63
After modding:
XM-L U2 1C on copper base
3,74A Driver 2-Mode (KD 7135 V2 driver with 2 extra 7135)
Contact tuning at driver and clicky (bypass springs with wires)
@1m = 50000 Lux
Problem was, that the 7135 driver was too high and don´t fit.
I take a brass ring and pressed that in the pill, then i could solder the driver in.
Wow! :D
And 38K candela in stock form. Hmm. I need to get a HD2010 + 2 king kong + charger.
Thank you guys for doing all this reporting. I have been looking for a 1 cell, large reflector thrower and this fits the bill!
@ Andi
Did you measure Amps in other than high mode?? And what about overall quality of the light?
Thank you in advance.
I got 2 lights, the other has 32000Lux....the lens and LED was really dirty.
At this light i only chanched the LED (XM-L U2 1C on copper) and bypass springs, now it has also 50000 Lux.
The >5,5A i measured with Solarforce battery, with XTAR i measure "only" ~3,5A.
With SF i get a short time 58000 Lux, but goes to 50000 Lux very fast.
With XTAR it´s 50000 Lux.
My visacard just flexed.... It is trembling.
Another question: The U2 bin XML on copper - is that the one from ledtech.de ? (As far as I remember) that you wrote about in another thread (I found the best U2 you wrote - or somthing to that effect)
And a third - could you show a picture of the "bypass" operation on the springs? Is that "just" a matter of getting some copper wick/wire soldered to the top and the switch?
Thank you for your time Andi, it is really nice of you to share with us all like this :bigsmile:
It´s the U2 from LED-Tech, yes. (middle of the LED is directly soldered on the copper base)
With "bypass springs" i mean, i solder a wire directly on the board and the other end on top of the spring, or directly to the brass plug.
Gives max. Ampere without squeeze the spring and with lower Volts the Ampere also higher.