Giorgos, I think what Freedom is asking is if there are enough threads where you screw the tail, so that if he doesn’t screw it totally (to the end) he can use a 14500 protected battery (like the XTAR 14500). Leaving the tail a little bit up (not totally screwed), the protected 14500 might fit.
Understood and thanks for sharing (again), George.
The previous poster seems to be disputing your claim (which I have a hard time believing given that you have the exact same cell) and I’m asking whether a similarly/comparatively shorter protected cell would work if it was jerry-rigged/held on with but a few threads engaged and some quality tape applied to hold it there.
Do I like operating in that matter? No.
Do I shy away from unprotected battery powered lights with LVP circuits which don’t shut off (yes).
I am still excited to receive this light. I also figured that I would receive quite a bit of pushback from even ‘suggesting’ that it could be made to work with a protected cell (safely)…which it probably can’t be (or perhaps tint snobbery extends to overall appearance as well for hard core aficionados).
If the tail isn’t 100% screwed light won’t work (because of the Anodized threads) .
…so here comes the “there’s-gotta-be-a-way” guy in me:
What if you taped/somehow protected the spring and sand-blasted the threads?
Would the light light turn on (soon enough) as some of my other lights do (I always just assumed that their threads were anodized as well) or at some point in time before the two pieces are threaded together?
Then again, perhaps hard anodizing is just that on such a thin piece of metal (thread) and not practically ‘micro-sandable’…
…so here comes the “there’s-gotta-be-a-way” guy in me (sorry) 
:
What if you taped/somehow protected the spring and sand-blasted the threads?
Would the light light turn on (soon enough) as some of my other lights do (I always just assumed that their threads were anodized) or at some point in time before the two pieces are threaded together?
Then again, perhaps hard anodizing is just that on such a thin piece of metal (thread) and not practically ‘micro-sandable’…
Yes you can do it .
But there are easiest solutions too . I will upload a pic later today .
Waiting… 
Aaaaaaaah…… (thank you!)
(obligatory Grasshopper/”Beginning of Wisdom” video)
Ok here are some quick pics (sorry 
). The paperclip mod (original mod by someone on the Blf A6 thread )
Get a paperclip , give it that shape and insert it inside the tailcap .
Excellent! (many thanks)
Any other mods out there or suggestions/improvements on this one?
Hoping that this helps others who prefer protected cells.
Thanks Giorgos! :+1:
Could you instead snip 1 turn off of the big tailcap spring?
I haven’t tried it , it could work .
…keep snipping away, just a little at a time, until it turns on… 
…thank you!
Is the XTAR 14500 the consensus half way decent shortest protected cell out there?
The XTAR and the Olight 14500 are the only protected I’ve used so far.
The XTAR is better, but I don’t see it around for sale lately.
You can compare many 14500s here.
Thank you for the opinion.
It would be great to hear of the first protected cell to be used in this light of any type as I am (still) trying to wrap my mind around 800 lumens ‘bursting’ from this XP L (?) vs the 500 I am enjoying presently from my ZL SC52 L2 (XM L?) with the same 14500 cell.
Is this merely a result of the higher (?) unprotected cell giving this LED more power…a more ‘powerful’/efficient LED…or both?
…showing my ignorance ‘big time’ here, I know… :person_facepalming:
Using an IMR vs a protected battery : IMR will have higher output (lumens) at the highest setting .
Thanks for your patience, George.
I remember (now) once buying/trying an AW IMR unprotected cell in a ZL that I had and why.
What threw me was my ZL SC52 L2 putting out 300 lumens using an Eneloop and 500 lumens using a protected 14500 (which seemed almost impossible not long ago)….vs the UT01 putting out 500 lumens (AA) and 700 something using the unprotected cell.
Whatever I gained by using the protected cell seemed worth it for whatever the lumens turned out to be north of 500 (which seems twice as incredible as I thought the SC52 to be using an Eneloop driving 300 lumens).
Thanks for updating with new data Giorgos. :+1: