Welcome to modding 101.
Some of these lights it seems like they spent more time designing mod defeats than actually worrying about the light. That emitter on board stuff is ridiculous, I don’t know why they haven’t figured that out yet.
Good luck! 
It could have worked with a copper or even aluminium board, but it’s just regular epoxied fiberglass (or whatever PCBs are made of normally).
I can hardly imagine this was the original plan.
DQG tends to try to make the smallest possible light for a given format. They can shave off several mm by putting the emitter and driver on the same board instead of using a separate star. Zebralights are built the same way.
Unfortunately, this does make them much more difficult to mod.
Hmmm…. It seems the easiest way to solve cooling problems is making it a triple…
Make that R010 resistor a direct bridge for a bit more turbo and just put one of my Kaidomain 219C triples in there (when they arrive) and forget about solving impossible things…
direct bridge give You ~2.3A at Turbo
FET also has a resistance
Hmm… 2.3 Amperes : 3 = 0.77 Amperes per LED in a triple… That’s not much…
No, i will try to fix the thermal issues as it is now.
Keep it a single LED light.
Maybe i can make it work.
Just checked. With triple nichia (warm white from fasttech) turbo on a freshly charged battery 18650-25R is 2,08A… (R010 changed to the R000)
Okay, that’s low…
But those are 219A Nichias.
219C has significantly lower Vf so will probably draw more current.
Either way, for a triple this driver is not powerful enough i.m.o.
I took off the XM-L2 anyway, and i will try to make a tiny 5 x 5 x 1mm thick DTP MCPCB to put one 219C on.
The TIR works better anyway when it is mounted over a 3535 in stead of mounted on top of a 5050, i just checked that out.
Wish me luck… :confounded:
My first DQG 26650 was a triple, I removed the mcpcb and used a standard Noctigon triple (went to parallel instead of series) and then used an FET driver with ramping firmware to make it a really nice little monster. Gave that one away in a post count giveaway, sold my grey DQG 26650, ready for this new one with it’s awesome 7 emitters to play with. 
I’ve done similar to a Zebralight SC52, put a ramping FET driver in it for 1117 lumens on a 14500 with an XP-L emitter.
The tiny lights are a fun challenge, these in particular are a booger to work on but when successful they’re so much fun! 
I decided to keep the stock driver.
Otherwise i would probably make it a triple 219C pocket rocket.
Now it will be ‘just’ a modest single LED EDC light with (relatively) long battery life and enough cooling.
Just ordered some silicone carbide too to pot the space between PCB and head shelf, in combination with grey A+B epoxy.
I’ll drill a 2mm hole through the tiny 5 x 5 mm MCPCB (which i will make from the replaced 16mm one from my B158, it will get a 219C on it), throught the PCB and through the brass plus contact thingy, put a short 1.8mm copper rod through it to keep everything in position for reflowing.
I will take pictures to show it.
For now i’m struggling with a nasty neck ache, can hardly move my head without screaming…
Later…
Modding 102, the aches and pains of the flashaholic…
Definitely makes it difficult to accomplish a tight mod when the neck is uncooperative!
Take care, take drugs, get to feeling better soon…
lol thanks.
Thankfully it’s getting better now.
I think it’s these:
$ 0.74 for 50 pieces…
could be that, but it has to fit EXACTLY and be EXACTLY the same size
this one looks different, has rectangular button instead of round
wle
Mine has a rectangular button, i think the one linked is exactly the same as the one i have.
Here’s a ‘before and after’ pic to show another design faillure:
The yellow arrow points to where the switch left marks in the ridge there.
I noticed this when i tried to put the PCB back in place and it didn’t really want to.
So i made some room with a rotary tool.
But the original situation surely helps get the switch to break off the PCB.
geez
i am just lucky my parts didn;t come off the ckt board when i pried it off the glue
wle
Yes, i know those, i have 2 of them.
Thing is, cast PMMA lenses are better than cast glass lenses, especially in small sizes.
These glass ones just don’t get it right…
Probably too much shrinking and settling going on when the red hot molten glass solidifies in the mold or maybe even when they’re just taken out of the mold (mould?).
With the big glass ones there’s less of a problem though.
I ordered these today though:
I just hope they’re aspheric (they claim it is in the description, but that is no guarantee…) and the same quality as the well known 23 and 20 mm ones.
change for TURBO mode
I think it is possible to change the original driver to the DD driver.
Simply by adding a MOSFET transistor
http://s41.radikal.ru/i093/1612/6e/2d55992133b5.jpg
